Raging

What sort of dollars did you pay for your process west FMIC with piping etc if you don't mind me asking? Been quoted around the $2k mark for Nizpro's, installed.

Yeah at the moment it is running with 12. Its a pity they didn't release the tt's with a front mount, but I suppose with the whole "SUV" thing people wanted to be able to go "offroading" with them and not worry about damage. They probably would have thrown a fairly ordinary intercooler on it anyway if they did...

Sooo, picked the territory up this morning. So far, so good. Dyno says I got around the 30-35kw's at the wheels, and another 75 odd nm of torque. Initial runs had car running with more power, but due to the heat and the innefficiency of the stock intercooler (timing taken out by the pcm due to increase in inlet air temp), they dropped the boost back a bit. So final figures at the moment are 212kw and 493nm. So looks like I'll be swapping to a front mount in the coming months. Thanks to Ian and team at Aitkenvale Auto & Dyno in Townsville. www.auto-dyno.com.au

Never get your car tuned on Friday the 13th...lol I dropped the car off around midday Thursday to give them a little more time. They were still working on it when they rang me at 10:30pm last night (Friday) They had some issues with my flash tuner that has been sitting in my cupboard since 2006 when I sold the BA XR8. They could get a tune onto the box, but the box would not upload to the car. They rang around to see if anyone had any idea what was going on with it, but no luck. As soon as they used a new tuner it went straight in. Then their internet went down, from what they told me it happened last week too. They were downloading an updated version, and when it got to around the 120mb mark it went to dialup speed, leaving another 300 odd mb to go. And when they were tuning it last night they had a misfire, so a new coil pack was put on (no charge to me). When they rang last night they were just sorting out the torque reduction, so in about an hour he is gonna pick me up and run me in to get it, still no idea on power yet. Got Nizpro injectors thrown in at the same time aswell. Thought I might as well, in case the power/modding bug hits me again, which it usually does as soon as I start playing with things..

Blackwater....its the place to be..honest

Thanks mattyb, will try to track him down. Booked in Friday to get the work done, so time is running a little short, see how we go

Ideally I would love 22's, but that would be way too harsh out here. I compare the ride on the TT with stock 18's to that on a sedan with 16's or 17's, so I was thinking that going 20's would equal the ride of 18's on a sedan. Personally I would love to see one dumped on its guts riding on 14's, nice wide tyres with a high profile... I don't NEED the injectors replaced, no. But from what I have been reading, you can get another 20 odd kw's at the wheels by doing your injectors at the same time. Primarily I am after a bit better economy, and just going cai, tune, debung will do that. But if people are getting comparable figures economy wise with larger injectors added onto those mods, then it would be worth doing, as you still get better fuel economy than stock, and its all done in one hit, so I don't have to drive 1400kms and pay again to get injectors done and retuned. Hope that makes sense...

Well, I ended up buying a TT. Loving it so far. And seeing as though I didn't lease it, that means mod time... I asked this question on the ford forums, and so far, no reply....strangely.. This week I have the TT booked in for cai and tune, I had bung removed last week. My question is, for those that have had injectors done, how did u find your economy? I've been told debung, cai and tune will give better power/economy, does the economy get better, worse or stay the same compared to not doing injectors. I don't really want to sacrafice economy for power, and I gather doing injectors will hurt warranty aswell, as you probably wouldn't be able to reflash back to standard? Obviously the way you drive will change the economy, I'm doing mainly highway driving No performance mob I have talked to has ever mentioned getting a cooler thermostat either, any opinions on this? Also thinking about throwing a set of 20's on, anyone with 20's drive on rougher than average roads with them on? If so, how do u find ride quality/road noise compared to 18's? Thanks in advance.. __________________ Flying is easy...just throw yourself at the ground and miss...

study

Thanks guys. I realise the ins and outs of buying and selling cars. All I was chasing to begin with was a ballpark figure of what people had been offered if anyone had traded one in yet. I got plenty of offers from car yards, but laughable offers, one mob came back with $28k... In the end I got close to what I wanted for it so that's all that matters I suppose. Thanks for the replies all the same

Thanks Cobra, any input is good input :D

Hmm, these cars must be faultless....seemingly..

I've been operating machinery since before I left school, and did it here and there for quite a while. I've been working at Blackwater now for about 8 years on the equipment, I think my package is worth around the $170k, the only reason to stay here lol.. As others have said, at the moment it is not an ideal time to go out on a limb to try to get a job. However work is starting to pick up, but I still know of a fair few experienced people looking for work. Your best bet would be to try to get a traineeship, or you can try various contracting companies, such as HMP, Goldings, Theiss, John Hollands etc etc. To get into the mines you must have a coal board medical, which I haven't payed for personally for a fair while, and a generic induction. If you wish to work in a BMA pit, you also have to have a SGS induction. All up expect to pay somewhere around the $1200-1500 for the three. Some people have said that getting a HR ticket might help you. How, I don't know, as they aren't really relevant to each other, though some operations might see it as an advantage, as the trucks do simular jobs, but are driven differently. All heavy earthmoving trucks are automatic, usually for mechanically driven trucks you will have 7 gears for the smaller trucks and a 6 speed for the bigger trucks, in general, depending on what breed it is. If the trucks are electric drive, then it is as simple as forward and reverse. Something else that might help is to go do a few courses you can get through tafe I think, where they give you basics on how to drive some equipment, such as dozers, loaders, excavators etc. Don't expect this to be counted as experience, but knowing the bare basics might give you the edge over someone who doesn't. Also, as stated, be prepared to have safety jammed down your throat in a big way. We have had quite a few high potential incidents lately, we had workmate killed at work in February, and other sites are experiencing the same thing, so the companies are really on the ball. Just this morning I spent from 1:30am til 6:30am defending a guy (I'm a union delegate) who was involved in a high potential incident last week where a rear dump backed into another, if he had gone another 2-3 feet back, the guy I was in there with wouldn't be with us today. Still the best bet would be to try to secure a traineeship with one of the larger companies, as they will usually pay for your medical and inductions, good luck with whatever you plan to do

Hey guys, Just curious as to how many of you have had issues with their territory's, or know of people that have had any issues. Currently I am looking for a larger car to replace the FG XR6T, the wife wants a larger car, mainly a little more boot space for when we go away, nothing drastic, and I am not willing to give up on the power. I have been looking at a 2008 TT with 30k on the clock. It has what I want on the car (tow bar, sidesteps, foglights, headrest dvd players, reverse sensors, tint) apart from premium sound, and a decent set of wheels. Personally I don't really like the look of the dash without the larger screen, and I would have to put an aftermarket CD player in where the lighter is with Ipod connectivity and supports mp3/wma etc etc, as I did in my BA XR8. My other option is to go with a new limited edition Bogan special sportwagon, with the G8 front end on it. There isn't a huge increase in luggage space compared to the sedans, but it is enough for what we want to. Very hesitant to go for one, mainly because I'm not real keen on either the M6 or A6, would probably go for the A6 due to better towing and AFM if I went with one. There is, as most of you probably know (know thy enemy lol) other build quality issues with the VE's, though I personally like the look of the sportwagon, but is another 13k dearer than the TT, and I don't think it is 13 grand better than the TT... I've read a bit about territory problems with rust, window problems, car stalling out while driving for no reason..is this common in later models?? So without dribbling on too much, some good, honest, preferabbly unbiased opinions would be greatly appreciated. Cheers

Ah ok, thanks for the info, good to know

35k trade in for an 08 xr6t ute! that's a bloody great price! Where did he get that? And what car did he trade it in for, that might make a difference with the pricing?

09/08 Build Nitro FG XR6T, ZF Auto 31,000kms Safety Pack Technology Pack Tinted Windows Tow bar Bonnet/headlight protectors Tyres only have 8k on them, so near new 11 months rego Car is in VGC. I've checked on car sales, cars the same age with less options are still fetching around the $40k from dealers. I've advertised it around CQ for $38neg. I always try to sell privately before trading it in at the stealership, but have had no luck.

Yeah I do realise this, but have asked around for a while, and no one seems overly interested, or if they are, they can't produce the coin. Getting to the point where I might have to lose that extra couple of grand. Used car market isn't at its best, especially seeing most dealers/manufacturors, are doing pretty good deals on new cars.

Hey guys, Just curious to know if anyone has had any experience, or prices quoted to them, in trading in an FG XR6T?? I got quoted over the phone at $34k, they asked to see the car, commented how its in immaculate condition and that it had good extras on it etc etc. The next day they tell me that the trade in price is now $30k.......wtf is up with that?? I thought with dealers trying to do business they would try to give you a good deal, but apparently not?! I'm going to lose money on it either way, but due to unforseen circumstances we need a car with a little bit more room. So be interesting to know if anyone has any feedback. Cheers

Can't stand Tander, got away with so much. Can't stand Skaife, or the Kelly brothers. Murphy is on the borderline for me, as well as Ingall. The teams on the podium at the end deserved to be. It was good to see Holdsworth/Caruso up their strangely, think they did quite well. I didn't really look too much into it, but having a quick look was it 19/11 Holdens/Fords?? If that's correct, or close to correct, then its just a numbers game. I'm over the supercar series. They should make a universal shell and not tell anyone if they are holdens or fords or whatever, and have people backing teams instead of the badge, cuz that's what wins the races now, not the cars, not so much the drives either, but good team management.

I think that is half the reasoning behind it, because of the economic crisis etc etc. By doing this they are apparently making it more cost effective to get funding/sponsors, and at the same time opening the door to other interested parties.

If they put in a power to weight restriction or something simular, that might fix a few things.. Then there is the issue of rwd/awd etc, but if the cost of setting up a rolling chassis is capped at $250k, this also might level the playing field. Lots of variants to consider.

Just read the October issue of "Wheels" magazine, and read about this "V8 Superleague", What do people think of it? Might it be a good thing for the series? I personally think that it would be great.. For anyone that hasn't heard or read about it, Skaife (the tosser) is heading a committee to come up with a set of tech regs for this to work. The guidelines are it must be a V8, $250k max cost to build a rolling chassis, and authenticity, meaning the cars must closely resemble the road cars, so that is doesn't turn out like NASCAR. Seeing as the holden/ford supercars now cost approximately $400k + $150k for the engine, it should make things interesting, and might be easier in terms of funding. So we might see the likes of Toyota Aurions, Mazda 6's, Honda Accords and Nissan Maxima's out there mixing it up. If the chassis and engine are defined by detailed tuning, then dropping these bodies on top isn't an overly expensive proposition. Expensive Daewoo for one has stated that if it doesn't like the new rules, it will take it dollars and bugger off, meaning no more HRT at the very least. Will be interesting to see if other manufacturors actually get interested in doing this, as they won't be able to race their own engine technology, and/or not having a production V8 in their line-up might prove difficult, and then the marketing/commercial value thrown in on top might not make it viable for them to consider doing. If anyone knows any more about it feel free to expand on it, and/or correct it. Any thoughts?

I can pick the time frame for the lease, but its generally anywhere between 2-5 years. I leased the FG over 4, and my last lease car for 3. To get out of the lease is basically the same as trading a car in, though I have to pay out the lease, they won't add the difference to the loan. I could buy it privately I suppose, but with the kilometres I do its good to have a lease car for fuel, tyres, rego etc etc.

I realise that it would be slower than the turbo. Speed really isn't that big an issue for me anymore. I look at the GS and think that it basically is a poverty pack GT as you said, but in a way it might suit me a little more for the roads and driving I do, which is one of the reasons I sold my typhoon.