rex13bt

Basically there are two types of 98 Octane fuels on the market, high aromatic and low aromatic. In high aromatic fuels the octane is raised by adding benzene derivatives such as Toluene. Low aromatic fuels are produced by refining the fuel to a higher degree so these types of octane boosters are not required. These fuels contain more aliphatic compounds. Optimax is a high aromatic fuel and BP ultimate is a low aromatic fuel. These fuels behave very differently during the combustion process. Aromatic compounds take longer to burn and tend not to completely burn during the combustion process. This is why you can see soot on the rear of you car when using high aromatic fuels.

I just replaced the SP3000's at 37 000Km. I'm fairly happy with that as it is the longest I’ve got out of a performance tyre.

I had the ECU flashed a couple of weeks ago during the last service. The only difference I have noticed is now the transmission shifts a bit better when cold. Fuel economy or performance has not changed.

I have a P4 2.4. I recently got hold of a Celeron 2.4 chip and put it in my system to see how it performed. Using benchmarking software (Sandra) I found it was only about 15-20% slower than the P4. I then overclocked it to 2.8G and there was very little difference in speed between the two chips. I’m not partial to AMD as I have fried one in the past.

My AUIII XR8 was fitted with the premium sound system. Before I got the T I was a passenger in a BA XR6 fitted with premium sound. It sounded so Cr@p I took it upon myself to play around with the setting to get some decent sound out of it. The first thing I noticed it sounded much better with DSP and CD compression off. In the end it sounded much the same as the AU premium sound, but didn’t seem to have as much Base.

The best engine would have to be in the Honda S2000. You can drive it sedately and its just like any other 2L, but when you put the boot in it takes on a completely difference character. The worst would have to be a Suzuki outboard motor. Nothing but trouble.

Ah yes, many people seem to stumble across this article. There are way too may issue with the test procedure to mention. I would not judge the performance of any oil based on these results. This test was carried out some time ago and I have spoken to technical representatives from two of the oil companies represented, one of which was present for some of the testing. At the time he did voice some of his concerns, however as the oil from his company performed quite well he didn’t push the issue.

Every 2 months, whether it needs it or not.

:lol:

Ask the dealer to check the glycol concentration of the coolant. You can do this accurately with a refractometer (they should have one and know how to use it). You will probably find the concentration is below 33% (unless they have already adjusted it). The corrosion inhibitors used in coolants are formulated to work at a minium of 33% glycol concentration, so if the glycol concentration is below 33% there is not enough corrosion inhibitors present to stop corrosion.

It is generally not a good idea to add anything to a engine oil. In most cases you are actually reducing the performance of the oil. Engine oils are formulated using a careful balance of additives and when you add something to the oil you are throwing out this balance.

http://www.autoweb.com.au/cms/A_102170/newsarticle.html

When I ran mine over a weighbridge it came in at 1780Kg with almost a full tank of fuel. I was a bit surprised as my AUIII XR8 came in at 1760Kg. Both auto’s plus all the normal bits and pieces you keep in a car.

PAO’s do have a low pour point as do most synthetics as they do not contain waxes that are present in mineral oils. I not sure what you are getting at with this comment. Most oils will swell rubber seals. A 100% pure PAO will not. However oils formulated on PAO’s will contain 10-20% ester. The ester is used to give the oil the same seal swell properties of a mineral oil as well as helping disperse additives. Esters ain’t esters. There are a number of different ester, however I am not 100% sure which one Motul use. WTF is a double ester? Here is some good information on esters. http://www.hatcocorporation.com/pages/about_esters.html The following link to motul 300v 5w40 was interesting http://home.att.net/~teaguesauto/fluids.htm It gives a detailed explanation on High Temperature High Shear viscosity, but does not state a result for the product. All they say is that a 50 or 60 grade will give the best result. Very very strange. This link confirms the API specification of the oil. http://www.motorspot.com/300v.html It’s a API SH. The latest specification is SL and SM will be out in a couple of months, so it doesn’t meet the latest API SL specification or it has not been tested for it. I would be careful quoting who uses what oil. I know what engine oil is used in a number of leading supercar teams and it is not an off the shelf product. I have no doubt the product would be able to withstand temperatures of 365°F or higher, however I would not recommend using any XXW/30 in a XR6 Turbo that is driven hard. The reason being that any 30 grade, whether it is a mineral, PAO or ester, will become very thin at 150°C and as I said before it is possible to reach this oil temperature in the T.

http://www.motul.com.au/product_line_up/4s.../4stroke05.html take a look here 0% shear loss I looked at the link. There was very little information about the product. No specifications were quoted (ACEA or API), apart from “exceeds all existing standards”. It does state “Also by carefully selecting the right polymer, “0% shear loss*” can be achieved”. Most high quantity engine oils, in particular synthetics, use shear stable polymers. I noticed this oil comes in various viscosity grades, while no HTHS is quoted, the thicker variants will have better HTHS results. This oil is formulated with a ester base oil. Esters have a number of desirable properties, such as having lower internal friction due to its low molecular weight. This will give you more power from your engine. The main disadvantage with esters is its poor Hydrolytic stability ie it reacts with water to from a acid. Every time you start a cold engine you will get condensation in your oil. I hope you are changing your oil often! Polyalphaolefins (PAO) synthetic oils have better Thermal and Hydrolytic stability and would be a better choice.