colbourne

I have heard of more horrer stories from Eastern Creek. Wakefield is good because you are unlikely to hit walls etc. I have been there several times and it is a good fun track. Anyone can drive on a fast straights. Its the corners that test you. Agreed about the brakes getting hot but just do many short sessions and you should be OK. You probably would find the WRX doing better lap times, but they wont be able to overtake you, and you can get them on the straight, although they will be able to out brake you (if they dare). I was not embarresed by other makes of cars (S2000, Skyline,Supra, WRX) when I was there but you would have to work hard to match the times quoted in Motor and Wheels on their test days there.

Remove the rear and passenger seats. Putting lighter doors on would be a good start. Doors without electrical windows. If purely for racing, remove the glass totally from the doors , possibly replacing with plastic. I have heard AU doors will fit. Can someone give weights of all the removable items eg. bonnet, doors , seats etc. so we can see what items are worth replacing.

Is it ok to mix oils when topping up , if you do not have the correct oil handy. Is there any real bad effects of adding two different type's of oils together ie synthetic and standard oils.

The G-Tech is accurate but you have to ensure that the road is perfectly level, the G-tech is mounted correctly and your car does not raise its nose under acceleration all of which would give a false reading.

that's a bit better fuel consumption than I predicted at speed. Other constant losses must be the important factor. At 100 km/h you got 10l/100km so at 150 km/h 22.5l of fuel would be used in the same time but as 150 km is covered we divide by 1.5 and get 15l/100 to reality of 14l/100km so at 160 km/h 25.6l of fuel would be used in the same time but as 160 km is covered we divide by 1.6 and get 16l/100 to reality of 15l/100km I am glad you got 10l /100km at 100km/h as it makes the maths much easier!!! Sorry in my previous post I meant to say :- I think at 150 km/h 22.5 l/150km would be about right and at 200km/h you would be close to 40l/200km.

Gavin I think you will find that the formula of squaring the speed will hold fairly well above 80km/h. At slow speeds other losses will make a big difference and economy is normally best at around 80- 90 km/h in top gear. I think at 150 km/h 22.5 l/100km would be about right and at 200km/h you would be close to 40l/100km. I dont have an XR6T but could some one who has been at these speeds (on a private road or track) post their results. Get a passenger to check the readout once you have stopped accelerating and have held the speed for a short while. 9 l/100km at 95km/h is approximately correct so even if the units are wrong as we are working with ratios the formula will work above 80km/h.

The brakes are hottest when you finish braking, normally at a low speed, and this is when the cooling will be least effective. At a track day braking is happening at every corner so cooling between corners is useful to keep the temperatures down.

I have not tried this but thought that removing the two fog lamps (which always get broken anyway) would reveal a possible position for a brake duct with the spoiler already incorporating a funnel for extra air flow. Even if most cornering and braking is at low speed, having the extra airflow would cool the brakes quicker for the next application in the fast runs between corners.

For those frustrated with the G-tech suction cup, I recommend attaching the unit without bracket above the left end of sun visor with a rubber band. It is easy to get it level and is a perfect fit. To do lateral G-force reading attach to passengers sun visor.

Unfortunately I think your 30+ l/100 km reading on the hill is fairly accurate as the engine is having to lift nearly 2 tonnes vertically against gravity. To prevent you worrying about the cost try visiting England where fuel is 2.5 times more expensive and when you come back you will really enjoy driving again. For each dollar you spend here you save 1.5 dollars , so you will soon be rich ! Drag is proportional to the square of the speed so you would expect a big difference between the fuel used at 95 to 105km/h 95 *95 = 9025 ie 9 litres / 100km 105 * 105 = 11025 ie 11 litres/100km

Using the G tech it is very important that the road is level. A slight uphill will give false better times and downhill the opposite due to the readings being of G- force. ie holding the G tech vertically will show 1 G even when stationary. Another problem is that as a car accelerates the nose will rise slightly also giving false better times. Otherwise I am very impressed with the G tech and for such a small device it is very impressive. Mounted sideways it shows your cornering G- force. It can also be used to calculate horsepower. There are four versions available 1 ) The old cheap one $60 - $100 on Ebay 2) The Competition Pro $300 -$400 3) The SS $200- $300 New model same as RR except without download capabilities. 4) The RR $300 - $500 This one allows download to a computer and is identical to the Competition Pro as far as I can tell, just newer and silver instead of black. It is fun to try it out in all your available cars and those of your friends as it so easy to transfer from car to car. The disadvantage is the suction cup often comes undone. Probably best to screw permantly in place or use the velcro directly onto a flat surface (Very important it is perfectly level).

Can anyone post any videos filmed in an XR from any of the racetracks (prefably wakefield).

But if you had changed the diff ratio with a high revving engine you could still achieve the same torque at the wheels. I think it is fair to say that the torque at the engine is irrelevant and what matters is the torque at the wheels.

Torque and kw are at a given rpm directly related. The formula to calculate the power in watts from torque is Power = Rpm * Torque (in Nm) / 9.545 I do agree that having high torque is useful at a low rpm but high kw at low rpm is just as useful. A high revving low torque engine will when attached to the appropriate gearing give high torque at the wheels where it matters.

Ba XR8 instead of GT but here is a sound file (link) to give you an idea http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=14241