
xrhp6
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Everything posted by xrhp6
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Have xr6Turbo, FPV Gauge Pod has Oil Temp, Oil Pressure both VDO Electrical, 3rd pod on the right has VDO Mechanical Boost works well.
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Fuchs have a new Oil out, GTO 10w-40 have in turbo currently, seems like a good oil.
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Thanks for the feedback.
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Am considering having a sunroof instaled in my T, for those that have 1, are they benificial or a problem. Would appreciate feedback. Thank You in advance.
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38 all round also, recommended by quite a few tyre dealers. No negative affects.
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Remove your electric fans, by undoing 2 bolts 1 either side at the top, as well as your air duct to the air box, then lift up fan shroud. You will see a white butterfly plastic type drain plug on the passenger side at the bottom of the radiator, undo, coolant will be released, to flush turn on your heater control on the dash, then flush with tap water thru the water reservour. Then place coolant, then water top up. Dont foget there will be water left in the system so add have of the total volume in coolant only, then top up with water.
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Have your Radiator checked, or inspect yourself, mine was replaced before warrantee ended, as well as another club members XR6T. They have had some problems with them. They are XR8 size, quite costly.
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That’s the way Savage Most people just look at the viscosity rating and that’s it!!!!!!!!! The Viscosity is the pour-ability of Oil at a “defined” temperature. A Quote from the FPV and the Ford Service Training Institute. F6-270-Turbo Recommended Mineral oil SAE viscosity grade 15w~40 WARNING: Use of alternative oils may result in degraded performance, fuel economy and emissions. Do not use non-detergent or API class SC, SD, SE, SF, SG, or SH oils or additives. For example the 0W~40 Synthetic oil question not only meets FORDS specifications but exceeds it. How can you void warranty when you use oil which exceeds the factory specification???????? Some dealers are smart enough to know and some are not. My T3 came out of Fords factory with 0W~40 oil and every time the Ford dealer serviced it he would use Mineral oil 15W~40.. Time and time again I told them it was wrong yet they still used the wrong oil next service. After one service I fronted the service manager and he told me outright that (these dinosaur engines CAN NOT run a 0 weight oil) So I promptly introduced him to the Ford spec sheet stipulating 0W~40 FormulaR .. Needless to say he was at first lost for words then promptly apologized, then changed my oil to FormulaR at no cost. If you are so worried about the viscosity ONLY then do a test: In my BF F6 the oil pressure when hot at idle is only on the first mark on the gauge (lucky to be 1/8) with factory Oil from new. Change it to 10W~60 FormulaR and the oil pressure sits just a whisker under ½ at Idle. Then with 0W~40 FormulaR it sits on about 1/3 at idle HOT which is just about spot on in my book “if” I was only concerned about the Viscosity. Mmm strange how a 0w Synthetic oil hold its viscosity better when hot than 15w mineral oil????? One of the many but main reasons for switching to Synthetic oil is its longevity…. In theory it should last you twice as long as normal mineral oil and as such maintain it integrity over longer service periods under extreme operating conditions thus reducing engine wear and maintenance costs. What we usually see here is a switch to it not for its longevity but its ability to maintain engine component protection whilst running increased power over that same service period. Simply put in the transport industry you use synthetics and extend our service periods from 20,000km to anything as much as 60,000km subject to the TBM or schedule oil sampling. Your car! Use whatever oil turns you on! But at least check the specifications before you condemn an oil. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Well said, Castrol EDGE, good oil for Turbos, I use BP Visco 5000, 5w-40, also good oil. Motor purrs like a kitten, Turbo spools great. If you look at your OIL CAP, xx-40, xx-50 is stated. For interesting oil articles go to www.bobistheoilguy.com Oil is not only Lubricant is also used for cooling, thinner oil removes heat quicker with its higher flow rate, thicker oils dont flow as quick. Thinner Oil also gets in to clearances better.
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Use either Castrol Edge 0w-40, or Mobil1 0w-40 or 5w-50. If I could afford the expense my choice would be Castrol. They are all good Oils.
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The manual states that the T is tuned for 95 Ron, runs fine. going to 98 unless specific tuned for it is a waste of money.
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Are these systems available in Melbourne, if so do you know where. They are a great looking exhaust.
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Your right cobrav8, the idea did come from the APS CAI. the pipes are right under the Headlight, in lieu of 1, 3 pipes round allow a good flow of air in to the box. A few of the designs I have seen are squashed at the entry point, air flow then would be limited owing to small neck. This 3 pipe setup as can be seen doesn't limit air flow, as there is a small area only under the Light. The pipe is maximum size of 40mm Dia that will fit. More air thru these than the F6 CAI. APS dont sell there CAI seperate , must buy the whole Phase kit. So to all the other gentleman with there kind comments , think about it, it works.
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Your 100% right, enjoyment with results.
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Attached are photo's of my CAI. Have gained over half as much Air entry. Inspected F6 CAI and it is suprising that it has a smaller entry area than my design. With BMC Filter the differance can be felt.
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I had a similar leak as did a few others, from the Turbo there is a return Oil line going back into the sump from lubricating the Turbo Bearing. My dealer took 2 attempts at the repair. Shine a torch below the Turbo on that side, into the alloy cross member directly below, if it is that pipe you will see oil collecting in the top of the cross member. As the crew said take it back to the dealer. Regards xrhp6
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Just had DBA slotted rotors and QFM pads instaled to front by Racebrakes in north Melb. Great company, very helpfull all the shimmey and shaking has gone away. Brakes are spot on. No need to pay big bucks for brake upgrade kit for normal day driving. Regards XRHP6
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I have done the same thing today, made up ducts, increased the slot depth. Should be much better. Just had DBA slotted rotors with Racebrake pads instaled, all the shudder has gone (Perfect). Was told that not enough air was getting to rotors for cooling among other things. Brakes now are spot on, no shimmy at speed or low down. Supposed to have had shims fitted when machined some 5000k's ago no shims evident when brakes were pulled down, sign's of only 1 rotor machined, instaled old pads, not new when reworked by Ford. T has 30000 K's was only about 2000 K's left in the pads. Trusting some Ford Dealers is not an option any more. Regards XRHP6.
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Hi Gents, What is the sign that valve springs are to weak.
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Informed this afternoon buy my Local BP servo that petrol will be going up this week to $1-15 per Litre. Best get in quick. Regards xrhp6 :roll:
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Dunlop 3000's for me. Just had Hankook 104's taken off my T, didn't like them. Paid $225-00 each for the dunlops. For general purpose use you cant pass them up, good to see Dunlop manafacture these tyres in Aus, can only look forward to further performance tyre's made here and sold at a reasonable price. Go Dunlop. :roll:
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Bring this subject up again to find out how U guys find the synthetic oil that is being used. I am using BP Visco 5000 a 5w-40 Synthetic that came 2nd in a Head to Head Oil Test, details here www.performanceoilnews.com/oils_against_oils.shtml Cheers.
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I also have Oil leak at Turbo return line to the sump. Been in twice for repair, will be going in again, and again if not fixed. Is there any dealer that can get it right, my dealer will be an expert by the time they fix it, if they ever can. Cheers.
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Update, Booked my T in to local dealer, took T in , received phone call, problem fixed new gasket instaled. Picked up T, now leaks more than before after traveling 250K's away from home and finding oil smell and smoke from exhaust. Back to dealer on tuesday with please explain. regards xrhp6