xrhp6

Have xr6Turbo, FPV Gauge Pod has Oil Temp, Oil Pressure both VDO Electrical, 3rd pod on the right has VDO Mechanical Boost works well.

Fuchs have a new Oil out, GTO 10w-40 have in turbo currently, seems like a good oil.

Thanks for the feedback.

Am considering having a sunroof instaled in my T, for those that have 1, are they benificial or a problem. Would appreciate feedback. Thank You in advance.

38 all round also, recommended by quite a few tyre dealers. No negative affects.

Im available if required. Regards xrhp6.

Remove your electric fans, by undoing 2 bolts 1 either side at the top, as well as your air duct to the air box, then lift up fan shroud. You will see a white butterfly plastic type drain plug on the passenger side at the bottom of the radiator, undo, coolant will be released, to flush turn on your heater control on the dash, then flush with tap water thru the water reservour. Then place coolant, then water top up. Dont foget there will be water left in the system so add have of the total volume in coolant only, then top up with water.

Have your Radiator checked, or inspect yourself, mine was replaced before warrantee ended, as well as another club members XR6T. They have had some problems with them. They are XR8 size, quite costly.

That’s the way Savage Most people just look at the viscosity rating and that’s it!!!!!!!!! The Viscosity is the pour-ability of Oil at a “defined” temperature. A Quote from the FPV and the Ford Service Training Institute. F6-270-Turbo Recommended Mineral oil SAE viscosity grade 15w~40 WARNING: Use of alternative oils may result in degraded performance, fuel economy and emissions. Do not use non-detergent or API class SC, SD, SE, SF, SG, or SH oils or additives. For example the 0W~40 Synthetic oil question not only meets FORDS specifications but exceeds it. How can you void warranty when you use oil which exceeds the factory specification???????? Some dealers are smart enough to know and some are not. My T3 came out of Fords factory with 0W~40 oil and every time the Ford dealer serviced it he would use Mineral oil 15W~40.. Time and time again I told them it was wrong yet they still used the wrong oil next service. After one service I fronted the service manager and he told me outright that (these dinosaur engines CAN NOT run a 0 weight oil) So I promptly introduced him to the Ford spec sheet stipulating 0W~40 FormulaR .. Needless to say he was at first lost for words then promptly apologized, then changed my oil to FormulaR at no cost. If you are so worried about the viscosity ONLY then do a test: In my BF F6 the oil pressure when hot at idle is only on the first mark on the gauge (lucky to be 1/8) with factory Oil from new. Change it to 10W~60 FormulaR and the oil pressure sits just a whisker under ½ at Idle. Then with 0W~40 FormulaR it sits on about 1/3 at idle HOT which is just about spot on in my book “if” I was only concerned about the Viscosity. Mmm strange how a 0w Synthetic oil hold its viscosity better when hot than 15w mineral oil????? One of the many but main reasons for switching to Synthetic oil is its longevity…. In theory it should last you twice as long as normal mineral oil and as such maintain it integrity over longer service periods under extreme operating conditions thus reducing engine wear and maintenance costs. What we usually see here is a switch to it not for its longevity but its ability to maintain engine component protection whilst running increased power over that same service period. Simply put in the transport industry you use synthetics and extend our service periods from 20,000km to anything as much as 60,000km subject to the TBM or schedule oil sampling. Your car! Use whatever oil turns you on! But at least check the specifications before you condemn an oil. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Well said, Castrol EDGE, good oil for Turbos, I use BP Visco 5000, 5w-40, also good oil. Motor purrs like a kitten, Turbo spools great. If you look at your OIL CAP, xx-40, xx-50 is stated. For interesting oil articles go to www.bobistheoilguy.com Oil is not only Lubricant is also used for cooling, thinner oil removes heat quicker with its higher flow rate, thicker oils dont flow as quick. Thinner Oil also gets in to clearances better.

Use either Castrol Edge 0w-40, or Mobil1 0w-40 or 5w-50. If I could afford the expense my choice would be Castrol. They are all good Oils.

The manual states that the T is tuned for 95 Ron, runs fine. going to 98 unless specific tuned for it is a waste of money.

Pic's attached, thru in motor also.

Are these systems available in Melbourne, if so do you know where. They are a great looking exhaust.

Your right cobrav8, the idea did come from the APS CAI. the pipes are right under the Headlight, in lieu of 1, 3 pipes round allow a good flow of air in to the box. A few of the designs I have seen are squashed at the entry point, air flow then would be limited owing to small neck. This 3 pipe setup as can be seen doesn't limit air flow, as there is a small area only under the Light. The pipe is maximum size of 40mm Dia that will fit. More air thru these than the F6 CAI. APS dont sell there CAI seperate , must buy the whole Phase kit. So to all the other gentleman with there kind comments , think about it, it works.

Your 100% right, enjoyment with results.