Pretzel

I'm heading to New Zealand tonight for a two week Holiday So if you have questions etc.. Keep them coming, but the replies will be a bit slow !

Sorry guys, That is a good point. Cost will be $40.00 per vehicle (To be paid to XTC on the day) Each vehicle will have a couple of runs (Or in cases like Geea with two maps, for each map) It will be a pretty relaxed day, so there are not going to be any hard rules about things ! If a car has a problem, and needs more than a couple of runs, then that will happen too ! Food (BBQ) and drinks(Soft) will be supplied as long as we have 10 cars, so come on guys, join the fun !

Geea, No problem, running both maps will be fine

Ok peoples, Time to make this Dyno/BBQ day official ! To be held on Saturday the 13th of November Location: XTC Engine Management 16 Louvain St Coburg VIC Ph: 93541198 (Just off Gaffney St) Time: Turn up around 10:00 (ish) A BBQ lunch will be provided so it would be good to know what sort of numbers will be turning up ! Let's get as many cars there as we can ! Hope to see you all there ! Pretzel

Guys, Where I get my Dyno tuning done are EMS distributors. They are in Coburg in Melbourne XTC Engine Management 16 Louvain St Coburg VIC Ph: 93541198 Fax: 93540774 Speak to Nick if/when you call. The quality and workmanship offered are outstanding (No I have nothing to do with them, other than using their services) I hope this doesn't class as advertising Pretzel

Ross, If you say take it to redline in second, then depress the clutch at the same time as releasing the throttle, there will be a faint Flutter (But you have to listen for it, it is not all that loud) Pretzel

Another thing that might interest you is that whilst the car was on the Dyno, we tried a Pod filter attached directly to a pipe coming up from the Turbo. The performance of the (Yet to be named) versus the Pod filter was identical, meaning Macka's design is about as good as you can get, with the added benefit of drawing the air from above the bonnet(Cleanest possible air), whereas any pod filter will have to draw air from behind the bumper etc.. Pretzel

Hey guys, Attached is the Dyno result, you can see for yourself the gains over normal induction ! Blown BA, All the credit goes to Macka !

Turbotom, I have a couple of questions after reading your explanation (But I have no idea about the problem myself, so bear with me if the questions are not relevant !) So if we were to say have a 'perfect' exhaust with no backpressure, this problem wouldn't exist ? Or is it not a function of backpressure, and only the shockwave you mention ? What is the cause of the wave ? Is it purely the exhaust pulses, (I would have thought to get a wave of some sort coming back towards the valve there would have to be something to stop the exhaust flow and generating it ?) The turbo itself is spinning at the same speed as the exhaust gasflow, so I assume not causing much of a restriction itself ? Thanks Pretzel

Hey everyone, Macka mentioned his shaker was to be tested on a stock T, well that test was completed this afternoon. Now before you start asking for Dyno graphs, I have them, but need to wait until Monday at work to scan them to be able to post them ! The car is a Stock T with a manual gearbox Rear wheel figure with standard intake 210KW Rear wheel figure with Macka's Shaker 227KW That's a 17KW gain or an 8% power increase at the wheels ! Yes the figure was repeatable with additional runs confirming the increase. So in addition to the appearance, there is quite a significant performance gain to be had ! The only problem with it was that Macka took it back once the test was completed All in all a very good result for all the effort, money, and time that Macka has put in to the Shaker. Thanks Macka ! Pretzel

Macka, Thanks for the response, another couple of questions I have are how are you handling the water (Rain) both into the intake, and into the engine bay around the shaker ? I have had Shakers on V8 falcons in the past, and know how they handle it there, just wondering what you're doing to allow for it ? And the other question relates to the cooler to Throttle body piping, what if anything are you doing there ? do you retain the crossover pipe on the top of the rocker cover or remove it ? (I am hoping you remove it as it seems very restrictive) Pretzel

Unigroup, I agree that 'most' players will just keep winding things up and if it goes better they are happy until piston meltdown through detonation etc.. I have had a reputable company (As you say one of the Pro's) tune a race car for me in the past (6 Cylinder N/A Falcon), only to have the engine detonate, and when I checked the map it was surprising the engine lasted as long as it did before failure (Which was not very long) So that is why I now do it myself ! And have not had a failure yet (Plus producing more and safer power from the same controlled spec motor!) But I guess as you say, the number of cowboys out there that would destroy things, then go on to claim “XYZ interceptor torched my engine man!” means they cater for the majority of users (Who don't have the right equipment or knowledge)

Any news on the Dyno power results ? Any difference at all ? How about a price for the kit ? Has that been worked out yet ? Waiting with hand on Wallet !

I agree, it does need to be looked into when it is released, I don't know how many times I've been told things will do "X" only to find that they fall short by a long way in reality ! The only thing I don't like is that they need to be tuned by the distributor (I have access to a dyno and all the equipment I would need to tune the car myself) But I guess that's no different to an APS install either (Which I was considering putting on the car !)

The way it was explained to me was that the unit would take a copy of your original map, and that is stored in it and available to swap between the 'modified' map and the original map. Which may be where the three map option is coming into it, perhaps it has the ability to just store multiple maps ! I guess that come service time you could just swap the two maps (Modified back into unit, and standard into car ECU) Being still in development/test though we would need to wait for one to be looked at by a dealer, but I don't think the service departments have the ability to read from the ECU, they can only read fault codes, and then re-load an updated Ford supplied Program (I could be wrong here, I'm sure someone will have more info about this !) I figure if I play, then I'll pay if it breaks something ! They have to prove that the modification has caused the failure, and I have a very reasonable Service Manager I deal with so hope it wouldn't come to that !

Profrat, I spoke to the Melbourne distributor a while ago, and I was told that the system will allow the tuning of the ECU to suit whatever mods you have, and can be re-tuned to suit additional mods added in future. As for the three out of the box tunes (I wasn't told about them when I spoke to them, but they may just be standard tunes provided so the box does something for you when it arrives ?) Turb06, It will not have tunability by the owner (Meaning it will need to be tuned for you by the distributor of the product with 'special' hardware, or at least you tell them what you want, they then modify the tune in the unit to suit what you want) So this would mean the distributor would end up doing all the dyno work for you (Which doesn't sound like a bad thing as they will presumably have the expertise with the system) This means that we wouldn't be able to 'share' different tunes with other users, except I imagine getting the distributor to program the same tune as another vehicle. We will need to buy one device per vehicle (Meaning you can't just buy one and then tune all your mates cars with it) from what I am led to believe. This was a while ago, so perhaps may be some out of date information, but regardless, I am reasonably confident it will be the path I choose to go down once it is released, which will allow me to choose the best components from all the options available. And to be able to build up to a very high output over time (Spreading the cost out)

Andrew, Good to hear that you've finally got it resolved ! Unfortunate it has cost you so much in $$$ and time though ! Having now sorted out the issue, and having the bushes replaced for no apparent reason, can you say that the lowering of your car (Which is with the same springs I have in mine, except no swaybars) did in fact damage the bushes, or was that just the dealers way of fobbing you off ? Just interested to know if I should have them loosened, and re-tightened at it's current ride height like mentioned in your earlier post about the clunk ! Thanks in advance

I would personally prefer the oil that is caught from the fumes to not be returned to the sump, and to monitor the amount collected (An indication of engine condition) If you think about it, the oil being collected in the catch can is from blowby picking up oil (Burning oil perhaps ?) so the oil returned to the sump would be contaminated ! I'd be much happier to replace the oil with fresh oil when enough comes out to be needed ! The other issue you would find with those cheap oil catch cans, is the size of the lines (I have seen one and they are too small) The lines would need to be at least as big as the one fitted by the factory that is plumbed back into the manifold. Just my thoughts !!

Craign, I did something very similar (Purchased springs seperate from having them installed) and from memory my installation cost was something like $200-$300 including supply and fit of Camber kit, and wheel alignment. Also a follow up whell alignment a couple of weeks later to make sure nothing changed once it all settled down! I'd shop around a little bit !

Grant, The numbers are basically the width, and the height (In percentage of width) from what I understand. So a 234/45 (Standard 17's) is 235MM Wide, and the sidewall height is 45% of 235mm so about 95MM high. The thing you want to try to maintain is the rolling diameter (To maintain speedo accuracy, or inaccuracy as they come from the factory!) so to go to a larger rim, the aspect ratio will have to come down (Or get the spedo recalibrated some how) I don't know what fits under them, but think Brian (BCL) has a nice wide set on his car (But I'm not sure off hand what diameter they are) The other thing I can't work out is the same size tyre from two manufacturers can be visibly different in width Hope that at least helps a bit !

Looks to me like another company fitting Nizpro kits ! With the addition of the bonnet mods !

The way I understand fuel consumption with reduced inlet restriction (Read better filter) is that assuming you don't make any allowance for more air/fuel, causing more power, therefore greater road speed, that consumption would increase. But the fact that it is then breathing better, you need to back off the throttle (It might only be a couple of percent) which means the car is now doing the same speed as before, but with a small percentage less throttle. ie. Before say 50% throttle to hold X KM/Hr After possibly only 48% Throttle to hold the same X KM/Hr As long as my understanding is correct, putting in a panel filter should increase the enonomy slighly ! This of course doesn't take into consideration the computer compensating for and measuring the increased airflow ! Does anybody know how the computer works out it's A/F ratio ? Does it work off Throttle Position, or would it just take a reading at the Oxy sensor and compensate for a leaner mixture ? If this is the case ignore my ramblings from above and I'll just see what happens in the next couple of weeks when I fit one myself !

Falchoon, Have always used Premium (Either Optimax or Mobil Synergy) It has Synergy in it at the moment, but I think I had Optimax last week when it first happened. Thanks CDM, I might give Peter a call and see what they think the cause is ! as that was his suggestion from the other thread ! I called the service department, and was told to see what happens, and let them know if a pattern starts to show up ! Hey Cro, the thing is I actually do have a 5th gear as well Thanks Guys !

Hey guys, Have had the following happen twice this week, just wondering if anyone else has had it or I am just lucky ! When overtaking vehicles on the highway, I generally give it a squirt to stay on the wrong side of the road as short a time as possible. Twice this week it has dropped power at 4000 rpm (Like traction control coming on, or hitting the rev limiter) The first time I had it floored, and thought, I must have hit a slippery bit ? But this morning I had the throttle only down about 50% so wheelspin is not an option ! Plus this time I looked at the traction control light and it was NOT flashing ! 4th gear at 4000 rpm is somewhere around 140KM/Hr which is where it has happened. Anyone else had this happen, or have any ideas ? Thanks

Checked mine this evening (Without it moving) and have the same issue where it misses the gate for 3rd gear. I have to pull the stick back slightly to get over a small step of some sort in the box before it will allow me to push up into third. It seems when this happens to not line up with 4th properly either, but as you select 4th the stick moves to the left slightly ! Making the change whilst driving seems to be ok, because as I select the neutral position rather than just popping the selector out of 5th, I must be pulling it down enough to get over the little step, although I'm not trying to make the change quickly when I do this so I am probably allowing for it as well ! So put me down as having the same gearbox selection as yourself, the only other thing my box does do is the crunch into 5th gear if I use 2nd to get to say 100KM/Hr then if I change into 5th (Not a quick shifting action, but not a grandpa action) I get a crunch !