JB

*beep*..... What about a pic of the Hoff in his bdgy catchers?

Shazzy, you have to treat the T5 with a bit of respect. From memory I ended up with a 14.2 stock then by the time I had 305rwkw I was looking in the low 12's but that's a different story for a different day. Because you are stock Feather the clutch with your foot to control wheelspin when taking off. Eg as you give it WOT off the line if the wheels start to spin in first take it up with the clutch pedal whilst still giving it everything, but be careful not to ride the clutch as the minute they get hot it's game over until they are stone cold again. I know it sounds like I am contadicting myself however the idea is to get off the clutch as quick as possible. Don't dump it however get your gear off the mark and get off it. Being stock you should have not too much trouble with wheelspin First to second is easy, the main problem with the T5 is third. I found alot of the time she does not want third (even more so with more power) the second to third is the slowest gearchange in the box. Be quick and consise whilst not thrashing the box, quick clutch applications and positive gear throws. When doing it down the qtr you should not need to chnage into 4th (Cross the line in 3rd) which once again an extra gear change means more time lost. The T5 is not a great box it you want to go quick, a cruising gearbox yes, racing unfortunately you are up against it from the start. This unfortuantely is what makes the auto's so quick, plus the more power you get in the manual the harder it is to get a quick time. Practice makes perfect. Cheers JB

Not that's a big call ... Especially when your around Ken........

Another Rocket Scientist joins the forum. I am now starting to feel inferior..........

Well, I guess, they look the same, cause a gearbox is a gearbox is a gearbox..... No seriously, the first pic is the T5 and the second pic is the T56. Look at the bellhousing they are different, also the rear gearbox mount is different. The T56 is much bigger (ie thicker). Robin. Hey Robin, how's it going? how's that monster of a car performing?

That comment alone is the one reason you don't use people like that. Either he's a thick as a brick or pushing his own best interests onto you. And I'm sure you know the inner workings of fords boost control methodology. I'd take it from that comment you would be the tuner? I would think that if you knew your stuff that you would recommend to your customer what options there are on the market, and what was the better option to go for based on price/results etc. To answer your silly little remark with the quick response it deserves, I got a fair bit of exposure to it by my car being one of the first customed tuned ones in Aus. In particular it was HPF's first car they did, so it spent 3 weeks there being used for research and ironing out some bugs that they encountered in the programming. In particular the Boost spiking problem that was an issue within the edit programme. We then worked with martin (Capa) and also the US in putting together duyty cycle tables etc that are now what I am lead to believe are a a permenent component of the Edit programme. Also in the early days running a Unichip and spending some time with Peter down at APS I got to learn alot during the early development of enhancing the T, and what was the right and wrong way to go about things. That coupled with the people I have spent time with here and learnt from there experinces. I am not saying Unichips no good, however technology improves and to say not many people know how to use the technology is rubbish. sh*t, come to think of it based on what you telling your customers, Most of the Longer serving members could probably advise a customer better than you. Acutally no I'm not the tuner, I'm just trying inform the common public how difficult it is to tune the factory managment and that alot of edit tuners dont know what they are doing and that a more stable result is attainable being able to drive the factory solenoid with an aftermarket device. Why do you think alot of these companies are upgrading the actuators? I'm also a little sceptical about the tuning methodology that has been described by Martin(you only need to see his GEN3 programs from CAPA to appreciate his knowledge). And as far as advising customers, its people like you on these forums that inflate customers expectations only for them to come back on here and complain that my tuner has done a sh*t job because the power is less than what they expected. This is also from dyno operators not doing their jobs properly and strapping the cars down. Quick example using a dyno dynamics dyno VN355 stroker ran 266rwkw unstrapped then ran 232rwkw strapped. Catch my drift. that's why when I say the standard injectors run up to 260rwkw that's what they actually run on a standard car. Any tuner I have spoken to do not even talk about upgarding the actuators until well in the 300rwkw's if required. The duty cycle tables that were developed were to stop this from being the easy solution. The boost spiking we were experiencing at over 300rwkw was directly due to the actuator. We knew it did not need to be changed as I was able to run that power with a Unichip, hence we knew it was a problem with the EDIT. I have only heard of changing the actuator in recent weeks so it's the first I have heard of it, and totally agree with you that it's not neccessary for what most of the members are looking for. Certainly from a melb perspective the tuners I know are not changing actuators. It's obviously more the states that do not seem to have the tuning support. In relation to certain peoples knowledge, I would also agree as when we went through the development of the unit with HPF there were a number of questions that we stumbled the company that suply's it on, hence we had to go to the US to get answers and tables. I don't believe we inflate people's expectations. Please provide me with examples wher we have. Based on the knowledge you have you would know dyno readings are a measurement tool for your cars progress only, yet one person compares their dyno result with another off two completely different dynos in different conditions. Most of the longer serving members did alot of the pioneering of these cars, and hence have made mistakes on the way like myself. This coupled with time gave us a clear indication of what were the mainstream paths we should take. Hence we offer advice on a pretty clear direct avenue to take if they want to reach certain numbers. However in all my posts you will note that I along with others clearly note that each car has varying tolerances, hence the results will vary sometimes greatly. But also as you well know and is clearly stated some tuners are better than others. There is as you well know a clear path in point form that you can take stage by stage and you will achieve certain results. It's just unfortunate that as the cars now become available in the second hand market and you get different people coming on and preaching how they achieve theings their way without proof. Unfortunately the newer members believe this is the way to go, and next thing we are off with a different generation of this car. As you will also note from the injector thread I also suggested the same as you with the 260rwkw on standard injectors. I would not be going anymore than that without replacing them. Cheers JB

Here you go guys..... I know I am posting it up on a public forum, but please be careful with it as it's a private site and these guys work very hard and use there own money to provide us enthusiasts with the latest episodes, which I really appreciate, as Aust could not produce a programme like this if they tried. I am Happy for the XRT forum boys to have it as you are all a great bunch of blokes, and will treat it with the respect it deserves. Hopefully you will keep this distribution as limited as possible. Enjoy Cheers JB

How do you find the quality of the idle with those injectors? Any issues? I was looking at these injectors until I came across this: http://www.airpowersystems.com.au/falcon/injectors.htm Basically explains why the stock injectors are quad orifice and why using anything else would cause a few issues. Did not realise they put that up. All that is described there is the research that was conducted some time ago, and is exactly what I was on about. There were a few members here that got to go down to APS and experience this testing and everything detailed in this article is what I was trying to explain in relation to the research. Ontop of this Geea did a large amount of investigating with Bosch locally and OS and posted all this information up on the different injectors. (Craig if you read this can you find that very old thread?) What we eventually established from Bosch was that the injectors that APS were offerring were in fact 968's that we ended up running. APS initially would not confirm this, and were filing off the part number off their injectors so know one would know. After all the reserch Geea did we worked out that APS were running 968's which was eventually indirectly confirmed by peter from APS. Hence from that day most of us went with that option based on the findings and the feedback from tuners etc and based on tuning results as well a reliability. Also why alot of us changed the fuel pump at the same time as injectors. Cheers JB.

Yeah I thought it was great. Who thought minivans could handle like that without tipping over! Word is they are now trying to make a series for minivan racing!

For all the guys that have PM'd me, I'll send the link tonight guys as it's on my home puter.

There is a thread on the forum that gives step by step instructions on how to do it and what you require. Do a search, I'll have a look and see if I can find it myself. Cheers JB.

Beautiful!

Like I said previously, you're in Tassie, and temps are much cooler down there.... An IC is NOT as essential as it is in Northen Australia (or Adelaide in summer) A larger IC will mean that you don't experience as big a power drop off as the standard IC after long hard runs. A larger IC keeps the inlet temps to the motor cooler, hence better consistency of power. Generally, with a larger IC, you can run a bit more boost to get slightly more power. An IC is a good mod if you are into lengthy high power output sessions, such as circuit racing. For drag racing, if you allow sufficient time for your stock IC to cool between runs, you'll still get excellent times with the stock IC. Also free up the inlet tract, by adding an additional cold air intake..... A simple lo cost method is to cut out a hole of your airbox and add some large diameter (~ 100 mm) flexible piping and set it up to draw air from just below/behind the passenger headlight. There are aftermarket units available also.... but you pay for it, and all they do is just improve the ability for cool air to be sucked into the airbox compared to the stock intake pipe which comes across the front and sits above the radiator. Have a good idea of what you want from your car. Tell the tuner what you want. A good tuner can set up the car to be a radical high performance rubber shredding sideways stepping thrill machine, or can peg it back a bit to be more driveable and reliable. Of course there are more stresses on the engine and gearbox as you increase power. Longevity will depend a lot on how you drive. If you are mechanically unsympathetic (brake lockup burnouts, reverse to first wheelies, continuously hard on the throttle) then the simple EDIT trans mods will probably not be sufficient. For heavy use, some internal trans mods would be recommended . A trans cooler, in my opinion, should be a priority in any modified "T". Get one fitted if you mod your engine for more power. Exhaust systems ...... You can pay a lot for some, and they may NOT necessarily give you any gains.... just a lot of noise, and in some cases annoying droning. Do a search and get some feedback from other members. APS system is excellent, but very expensive. The standard T exhaust is actually very good..... although a larger hi-flow cat would improve the ability for exhaust to exit, and reduce the back pressure on the turbo (and exhaust valves) speaking if valves, you may want to consider the replacement of the stockies. In some cases, members have had issues at higher power outputs. If I was you, and I didn't want to go overboard with cash outlay, but want a good reliable fast T, then I'd simply start with the CAI, the Edit and custom tuning. Aim for about 240~250 rwkw ( that's equivalent to a manufacturer rating of about 300 kw . That alone will put a smile on your dial. You'll be hunting lions with confidence. If you want to up the ante.... get the larger injectors. They'll provide you with the ability to get around 280 rwkw... maybe more, as it can be tuned for your colder conditions.... (by the way, CAN you get decent PULP in tassie?) The figures I'm quoting are for 98 RON PULP... You can even get a bit more power if you ask for a race map for a blended higher octane fuel (or octane boosted pulp --- some guys use toluene as an octane booster) 270 rwkw with toluene is possible with the stock injectors If you still want more power..... then get yourself an IC fitted. But now we're talking serious power for the T: 300+ rwkw and there are limitations on the stock internals of the motor.. For an auto, around the 310 rwkw figure seems to be the limit for no serious problems.... but it does depend on your tuners abilities. To be honest, I have a 260 rwkw everyday map, and a race map which has over 300 rwkw. 260 rwkw is more than ample to keep me smiling (and on my toes, especially in the wet) The race map is just that.... for the drag strip. Too radical for street use...... I am an ol' knut after all. Whatever you choose to do, select your tuner carefully. He's NOT going to be around the corner to make a quick software mod to your box. To give peace of mind, I wouldn't be asking for a highly strung "highest power output possible" tune. I'd discuss your requirements, and allow the tuner to give you his advice ... I travelled from Adelaide, to have my tune done in Melbourne. I am happy with my setup. cheers tom Great Post Tom, I think that sums it all up!

That comment alone is the one reason you don't use people like that. Either he's a thick as a brick or pushing his own best interests onto you. And I'm sure you know the inner workings of fords boost control methodology. I'd take it from that comment you would be the tuner? I would think that if you knew your stuff that you would recommend to your customer what options there are on the market, and what was the better option to go for based on price/results etc. To answer your silly little remark with the quick response it deserves, I got a fair bit of exposure to it by my car being one of the first customed tuned ones in Aus. In particular it was HPF's first car they did, so it spent 3 weeks there being used for research and ironing out some bugs that they encountered in the programming. In particular the Boost spiking problem that was an issue within the edit programme. We then worked with martin (Capa) and also the US in putting together duyty cycle tables etc that are now what I am lead to believe are a a permenent component of the Edit programme. Also in the early days running a Unichip and spending some time with Peter down at APS I got to learn alot during the early development of enhancing the T, and what was the right and wrong way to go about things. That coupled with the people I have spent time with here and learnt from there experinces. I am not saying Unichips no good, however technology improves and to say not many people know how to use the technology is rubbish. sh*t, come to think of it based on what you telling your customers, Most of the Longer serving members could probably advise a customer better than you.

that's back from 2003!!!! Great show It's just a shame that Australian media has the inability to put together a decent car show that is not afraid to say what they think or offend anyone. No forgetting that most of the time they are funded by the car companies anyway. For those that enjoy the show I can put you onto a private link wher you can download the latest episodes of Top Gear and 5th Gear.

That comment alone is the one reason you don't use people like that. Either he's a thick as a brick or pushing his own best interests onto you.

Have'nt seen the JB one. Did you consider the APS one? Probably one of the best around. Does anyone know if the exhaust on the phoon is different?

Yes I agree that if you were going down the track of drilled injectors, Simon knows what he is doing so $650 is a very good price. I agree with all the comments after mine, and understand why people want it to look stock. Believe it or not I had one situation where my car was running excessively rich and on a Sat morning I stood in the Ford workshop for 2 hrs watching 4 Ford techs including the service manager try and diagnose the problem. They had it all hooked up to diagnostics and were looking all of under the hood. Do you think they picked up on the 968 injectors? Do you think they picked up on the hardwire unichip that I was running at the time? Of course not. And they sent me on my way after 2hrs and 4 guys working on the car still scratching their heads why it was smoking and running so rich. Not many guys I know have had their 968 injectors detected, especially once your are running an edit. Cheers JB

You either have to change connectors in the loom or get adapters to suit. He supplies the connectors with the injectors & I did supply a few people the adapters who wanted a simple plug & go answer! Russ I just recently got injectors off eugene and paid $510. and had to get adapters fitted into the existing loom to support it and it was sh$%. it doesnt look standard at all, ford can pick it. you best getting your standard injectors drilled and fitted for $800. Why would you want to drill your existing injectors? I do not understand how people come onto this forum for 5 minutes and preach comments like that without doing any of the research? If you look back on the forum there is alot of technical data in relation to this. Off the cuff comments like just drill your injectors to me is just reckless. Use the 968's then, they will cost the same if not less than the $800 it will cost you anyway. You can then return the car to stock whenever you like. Why pay the same money to have something done to an injector that was not designed the way to operate once drilled? In the 3 years I had my T Ford never picked it up once, and for those who know my car was in the dealers regularly. Or as suggested it looks like Nizpro have increased theirs so there is that option as well, at least Simon knows what he is doing and has done the testing. Drilling you existing injectors will result in issues, this has been said before by many tuners. The other question I have is if you drill your existing injectors where do you go from there with your tunes? You will never be able to programme the car back to stock if you want to sell it unless you then fork out no doubt close to another few hundred from ford for new ones. If your worried about ford knowing you have modded your car then drilling your existing injectors is not the way to go. A question to the tuners out there, if you drill or get someone t drill your existing injectors (not ones professionally done by Nizpro) being that they will not have a regulated spray pattern, result in not being able to get a consistent spray or measure of fuel into the chamber? I have heard of tuners having issues with drilled ones in them unable to get a consistant AFR?

becareful mate people might think you know what your talking about. For God's sake don't tell him he knows what he is doing, It will undo everything!

well the ones that I use are bigger then the 968's, the early ones where around the same as a 968. That maybe it then. Makes sense. Cheers JB

Yeah they were off Fab's black T, but were only new when I got them off him. They are 19's. They are now on another forum members Ute, however have'nt seen him around for ages.

Ok, first have heard of that. There have been a number of people who have had to change them over when wanting to go 320rwkw onwards. Adam was one of them who had to fork out for 968's ontop of the Nizpro ones as they could'nt keep up with the requirements.

Here's mine. Have still not seen them on any other car let alone another T..... <div class='bbimg'> </div>

Yeah it would be Dags. I was confused as I thought it did not look right, however I got it off an American site and that was how they kept spelling it. Dam yanks!