bcl

Very good price. 4' dump would be better than 3.5". If it is a 3" dump it would not be beneficial for higher power levels. The x-force version with smaller mufflers is a lot louder and has a bad drone around 2000 rpm. I tried 2 different x-force systems. There is a big variation of versions with what on the surface may appear to be the same system, some fit well and others don't. In a past thread I published the sizes of the various mufflers that I used. That was a while ago, and I don't know what x-force has done in the past 2 years. Ultimately an exhaust will not be worth much if it does not suit the power levels you want, or it's db and drone characteristics are not user friendly. Been there. Brian

A good tuner can do a smoke test to determine the leak, if that is the source. I have had boost leaks traced that way in the past. Brian

If you are referring to me, yes, the stage 2 kit on my BF ZF F6 was upgraded to use this cooler. Works well, although from what I've seen with dyno testing you get better results with PW cooler... still both good though. Will support a lot more power than standard motor can handle. My big powered manual F6 runs a custom Plazmaman, before that a larger Nizpro tube&fin that nobody else had... it does not have the cooler referred to in this thread. Brian

Well done! That's in the zone for a BA 10.95 to 10.99 pass; 1.6 60foot; 98-99mph half track; 124-126mph full track. Based on other results I've seen you need to get over 100mph by half track (more power/cooler weather) to get close to 10.90 Just keep that good 60 foot. You did that twice, so it seems like you know how to do it. Anyway must be a good feeling. Brian

Another perspective is that it’s not just a matter of putting a bigger turbo on. Once you go over 500rwkw your costs will increase substantially to do it properly and with increased reliability. You may need to budget for bigger air filter, bigger injectors, 2 fuel pumps instead of 1 (or much bigger single), bigger intercooler piping, better exhaust if back pressure become an issue, maybe stronger internals, better brakes, suspension upgrade ….. My BF F6 has a modified factory turbo with t04z internals, and it’s very quick for the street, and I’m quite happy with that when used with a modified quick shifting ZF. A very good compromise without going over the top. You talk about fun. There are 2 sides to fun for me. 1. a smaller responsive turbo and quick spooling turbo for good drivability 2. the fun associated with massive torque, and that’s usually 4th gear acceleration in a big powered manual Both are very different. Many times in the past I’ve gone back from larger turbos to smaller turbos, because overall I think a more responsive turbo is more fun and more usable. Always a matter of opinion. Brian

GT42 is much laggier, but a lot more top end. Power output depends on spec of turbo and wheels, but say >500. Not much happens under 4000rpm. If you only want 400 to 450 then T04z would be better. If you go the GT42 I'd definitely recommend the 4.10 diff for better drivability. Brian

Scared has nothing to do with it. Tunehouse have tuned a multitude of cars. I don’t know the background to this case, but I’ll give you some general thoughts around this, as my first turbo project was in 1982 when I had 2.6L Sigma converted from n/a to turbo, and I have been involved in many projects over the years. When taking on one-off projects there are a number of considerations that have to be taken into account, and ultimately it is a business decision. A good workshop should want a successful outcome for any project, and assess the risk of taking on something that other workshops have already had a go at, or the effort involved in doing a new type of project and whether or not they have been done before. If it has been taken on before, and found to be uncommercial or too much hassle, it may not be done again. If the project type is likely to be repeated with other customers in the future, and potentially profitable, then it is more likely to be taken on. If it is a one-off, then there are many risks associated with the project in terms of cost estimates that may not be acceptable to the customer. When projects are done for the first time it is often the situation that the customer will not be charged for every hour spent on the project, as the workshop will write off a certain amount to R&D, so basically that becomes a co-funded project. For a busy workshop such as Tunehouse they also have to balance the workload across the various types of work, which includes the car servicing side of the business, dedicated tuning, and car upgrade projects. There is a limit to the number of concurrent projects that can be taken on, and believe me workshops hate pushing cars in and out of workshop premises every day. There is always a preference for shorter turnaround projects. With conversion projects of older cars, there is always issues regarding sourcing parts, or if the parts are second hand, that they are suitable. Project delays in sourcing parts are always taken into consideration. Tunehouse will take on projects. I have a STi project with a new Cosworth engine being retrofitted into an older STi., with some challenges along the way in regards to special parts being made. Projects are not done just to do someone a favour. Like any other type of business, workshops have the right not to take on work. They may not reveal all their reasons. I’d be more concerned about any workshop that blindly took on work without proper assessment. I know Tunehouse are probably fussier than others, but their focus is more aligned to having successful and quality project outcomes, and more regular projects such as kit and parts installs and engine swaps. Brian

Any of our 4 Sydney sponsors should be able to sort you out, and you can look them up in the sub-forums. Between them they probably do about 90% of the performance tuning in Sydney. Brian

Welcome to the club.... I'm a grandpa too. Good to see power levels increasing with age. You need to take it to a drag strip at least once, or have some fun on a driver training day or skidpan. Enjoy the car. Brian

What about the 6 to 8k for brakes and suspension? Then very sticky and wider wheels & tyres. These projects can take a lot of time, and you will most likely exceed your budget. If you want the job done properly, start with a $60k budget, not $25k, then another $20-30+ for extra parts & breakages & retunes along the way. If you don't take notice of us that have been through this then you are having yourself on. I suggest you buy another car for run around purposes, as the car will spent its share of time off the road. The only real place for this power is the drag strip, and doing 135+ passes is a lot of fun. 450rwkw is more than plenty for the street, and a very quick car. Above that the price per extra kilowatt increases exponentially. Good luck with the project. Brian

Just standard motor and bolt ons. Some guys define motor as stock, even if they changed valve springs, but that's an old argument. I've also noticed that BF & FG ZF times have dropped around .1 to .3 since MT brought out their stickier tyre a couple of years ago, based on a general reduction in 60' times. Brian

I've run 11.0 & 132 mph in the BF a few years ago, but I'm sure there a number of guys running in the 10's with BA's, usually around 124mph with MT's or slicks. I think Blueboost holds the record. Brian

Yes I'm sure, as from a post of mine in 2006. Just did a search on "solid"! ref One of my concerns at the time was the wear effect on the cams. Other than that they work well. It was all part of R&D. Brian

I have had solid lifters in my engine since 2005. One of the biggest problems with the higher revs is the bad harmonics. The higher the revs the greater the stress on the rods. If you want big power and very high revs it would be sensible to de-stroke the motor down to say 3.5L. Brian

I wasn't having a go at ETM, as I'm sure Leigh would have sorted them out. I just treated it as an R&D exercise just to evaluate the performance difference, and I was grateful to Leigh for making them for me. I had a zerosports SS set on my STi that was rewelded 3 times. No major issues there as they only took 5 minutes to get off the STi, and I used to take a spare manifold to the track. For the Ford it is a much bigger task, and I haven't had the spare time to stuff around with cars the last 2 years. The 6boost one looks good. Is that in the factory position? Brian

I didn't think anyone made them. I contacted 6boost, ETM and a few other suppliers a few years ago. None were interested in making a set for me. Persisted to get ETM to make a set as an R&D exercise. After the 1st set had another made to a different piping design to suit a larger compressor cover. Unfortunately both sets have cracked, and are off the cars currently. There is a definite lack of space to fit them, tight bends are required, which is why the conventional solution/path is to a high mount design. Brian

Well done Spiro. Good to see the old 10 sec barrier being smashed. Brian

3582 runs a smaller compressor wheel than than the 35R, but due to lighter billet wheel gives better spoolup. Same turbine. 750HP rating of 3582 seems a little ambitious; maybe the 3586 with the 1.06 housing. I've been looking at Precision & FP billet versions of these lately for a 2.6L motor. Good to see Garrett getting their act together regarding billet wheels for smaller turbos, rather than the web misinformation recently informing that there was no advantage of cast over billet wheel. Brian

good luck; you've set yourself a challenge; we have ample power but not so ample grip on standard street tyres. You'll find these F6's has heaps of low down torque. Brian

I cannot recommend Optus. Was in the Hunter Valley last week. Where I stayed there were 4 of us, with Telstra, 3, Vodaphone and Optus connections. Optus was the only one with no reception. To rub salt into the wound my wireless internet did not work either. I will soon dump Optus. Brian

Sounds good but it's a struggle to keep the power to the ground as it is. My opinion is it's worthwhile if you want to drag race and chase 135mph plus. F6 auto struggles in 1st because the gearing is too low on 98. My F6 runs a modified torque convertor now and it's even harder to keep traction. My son races his Evo on E85, and my STi is also changing over to E85 for racing purposes. I can't see E85 worthwhile as a daily driver, as it's a lot of hassle, and very little will match a modified F6 on 98 anyway. Brian