XRPhantom

I sold mine a month ago to a dealer here in Sydney for 33K. That was with 20" wheels on it and 17,800km's. Mine didn't have a hard cover or leather. I didn't have the time to sell it private in the paper. I did have it on the car sales website for around a month, but only had 2 calls on it and they were from interstate. They are not the easiest car to sell as there are plenty out there and considering I only paid 35k for it new I didn't loose out too much. They had just brought a blue one a week before for $28k with 38k/km's and hardcover and were trying to sell it for $43k I'd like to know what gooses are paying that sort of money. But I wasn't complaining as they brought mine. So they may offer you around $28-29k depending on it's condition. Otherwise selling it private you may get around $31-32k.

Looks the goods. Nice work, is it handling alot better?

Rota Motor, What specs are the tyres you have on the ute now? and what rating...eg 225/55 R16 94V Be interesting to see what they are.

I think it could be to do with the fact so many large corps have staff who get these cars as company vehicles and only have them 6-12mths then the leasing company flogs them off cheap and the staff memder gets a new one. Therefore there are a heap more sedans for sale out there at a cheap price then utes. Most company's that have utes are not big corps and mainly small companies such as plumbers & builders. Could be wrong but it make sense to me.

Correct me if im wrong but are some of you still saying that Rota Motor cannot put 18 inch wheels on his ute because of the load rating??? As I have said in my previous posts there are a few tyres out there with the same if not higher load rating than the stock tyre. My 20" tyres have a 95W rating whereas the stock 17" Dunlop SP3000a have a 93W rating. Which means I have a better load rating over stock. Also the tyre placard on the drivers side door if you read it says "Recommened" tyre specs. It may be true that a 1 tonner cannot have 18" (Can't see why not) but I will remain sceptical on that till I see proof. Feel free to prove me wronge guys :-)

BLK6T When I picked my ute up it had the same platic bit not sitting right, this was due to a clip broken underneath. It was replaced under warranty :-)

You will generally find that insurance companies will insure a car with any added options over standard features as long as they are legal on the car. Ive never heard of a problem with changing the profile of the wheel/tyre combination you will have problems when you fit wider rims than available on a standard car, for both the local authorities and insurance. Generally at worst as long as the wheels are legal, insurance wont cover replacement/repair if optional wheels are not listed on the policy. Of course insurance companies differ in their policy rules, Rota_Motor just needs to check if its ok, rather wait until after an accident (touch wood). <{POST_SNAPBACK}> No you see that is the common misconception. If you have a claim and only one minor unrelated object on your vehicle is not within spec then they can void the policy – not reduce the payout on a pro rata basis, but void the entire policy full stop. I’m only talking absolute worst case scenario but in these instances I feel that’s what is best to keep in mind. Trent. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> In the end it will be up to Rota Motor on what load rate 18" tyre he fits to his ute and if he loads it up illegally over that limit that will determine if the insurance would pay up or viod his contract. Like I said find an 18" tyre with the load rate he requires and don't load it over that limit and all will be ok should he have the misfortune of having an accident.

Now that 1521 lbs works out to be 690kg's. Can't see myself putting that kind of weight in my ute. Out of curiosity Rota Motor what is the load rating of your 16" tyres? I have just checked the Dunlop site and the standard 17" tyre is rated as follows: 235/45R17 93W SP3000A DUN 93W on the chart shows - 1433 lbs which = 650kg's So my tyres in fact have a 40kg higher load rate then stock. Let me know how you go with the 16's Rota Motor :-)

Here is a chart you can use to make sure a tyre your likely to purchase has the appropriate load rating.

Well that's funny, I have Nitto tyres on my ute and they have the following rating (Which is also shown on their website) 245/35 ZR20 95W 1521 lbs @ 50 psi So that's a 20" rim with a load rating of 1521 lbs @ 50 psi Now for the same brand tyres but in 17 inch had the following 235/45 ZR17 93W 1433 lbs @ 44 psi Seems to me that the 20's take a higher rate. The psi shown is the optimum for that tyre. So you may want to do some research like this and not take some local tyre guys advice to seriously.

Rota Motor, You will definately have no issues with 18's on the car and they will hold the load the car is designed for, they bring 18's out on them as an option these days. The Maloo has 19's and not sure about the Pursuit but im guessing they could possibly be 19's aswell and they have no drama's carrying loads. There are literally 100's of utes both Commodores and Falcons with 18,19 & 20 inch rims getting around so you should have no worries with the 18's. The main thing (Well NRMA told me, not sure about others) is the width of the rim on certain vehicles, find out what you insurance company will allow. The best thing I can suggest is just ring your insurance company and ask all the questions you have concerns about and they will set you on the right path. Cheers, Greg

You contradict yourself, you worry about your load rating, but you have a 20" rim. What is the profile of that 20" tyre? I am willing to bet either 1. You profile is only a 30 series, in which case you car is illegal because currently there are no load rated 20" tyres available. So worrying about your springs is irrelevent. 2. Your profile is larger and your over all diametre is shot to pieces and you speedo is waaaaay out! I lowered mine by putting in super low kings in the front and reseting the rear leafs. The rear dropped around 75mm and the front droped about 40mm. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Well that's funny that my wheels are covered in my insurance policy, but hey if you say so then they must be illegal. Speaking of being illegal im pretty sure your insurance company wouldn't be covering you with the arse dropped 75mm by resetting the springs :lol: And about the load rating, nowhere did I say I was "Worried" about my load rating. Simply the new springs "Could" carry a higher load should I ever need to do so (Which is unlikely) The reason I got them because they were the lowest spring that Pedders had available. And yes my speedo is out by about 5km when doing 60, but this can be fixed when I take the car in for warranty work by them simply changing the rolling diametre in the ECU. My post was simply answering Rota Motor's question of "How did you do it?". And that's how I did it.

I have new Pedders springs in the back with a better load rating. The ride is still exactly the same. It lowered the car about 20-25mm in the rear so the rear is now level with the front, I don't want to lower the front or rear anymore as I put bikes in the back and there are some pretty bad gutters where im from. The 20's definately filled the guards anyway. Resetting springs seems a bit dodgy to me (Just like chopping springs at the front) but there are plenty of people who have don it and have no probs. Hope this helps

Try this link for the steering shudder: http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/index.ph...wtopic=9073&hl=

Guys, I also have the Fairmont style boost guage tapped into the brake booster line. I didn't even think about the effect it may have if that line comes loose. Thanks for the heads up. Also if anyone comes up with a new way to get a reading that will not effect anything a post outlining how to do it would be much appreciated. I also am about to get the 15,000km service and I'll let you guys know what they say about mine. Also $357 is a joke, it's a simple oil/filter change and regular check. Correct me if im wrong but all the software updates etc should be covered under warranty shouldn't they??? I was looking at about $150-$180 for the 15k service. Hope this is not wishful thinking. How much have you guys paid? Cheers, Greg :-)

Maybe he was waving with a smirk on your face because you just flew through a speed camera at 100 clicks when he was doing the speed limit. Those Clubbies would whoop a T's arse once they get going.

I agree. Rims aren't the business but the size is. Also, lower the front an inch, looks like you perminately have a load in the back. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Yeah each to their own just showing you that the bigger the rim the more it fills the guard, also the car is dead level with no load in the back, just the angle of the picture. Plus won't be lowering it anymore as Bikes go in the back and the gutters around my area aren't the kindest.

I have 6 tyres and your right 2 don't have much tread I was after $1500 for them 4 rims and 6 tyres but I'm open to offers and if you play nice I will tell you about the extra one in the boot! If your going to do it do it properly and go to 275/30/19's on the rear 245/35/19's on the front! I have and I don't notice any change in the speedo. God knows you have to keep an eye on it down here in Mexico! <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Hope this works

I have 20 inch wheels on mine and the ride quality doesn't seem much different especially for a ute, the wheels definately fill the guards and the whole car has been raised higher off the ground due to the larger diameter. I lowered the back with new Pedders leaf springs so it sits even but I have not lowered the front at all.

If insurance wasn't such an issue I would love an STi. But on the other hand I am very happy with the T. To have both would be the go! But who has that sort of coin

Wonder if it got rid of the diff whine????

OUCH....Bummer. At least the new one will be nice a shiney. Mine is starting to get some fine scratches where the elastics on the cover go over the hooks. So if your is the same least it will be as good as new. (Just trying to find a positive out of it)

What the hell are you whinging about, I mean if you can get a brand new T ute for that price then get it, why get second had, just because someone has had one for 10,000 k's doesn't mean it's not going to have any more problems! Most ute purchasers would give an arm and a leg to get one at that price on road! Farrrrkkkk, most people have payed around 45 with options and on road, so for people selling their ute for $35000 seems bloody decent to me, that's 10 grand out of their pocket! $35000 for a ute like the T is bloody brilliant if you ask me, what other ute can you get for that sort of price that looks as good and goes as hard, maybe a 2001 model VU SS with 50,000 + K's on it.

Guys, I ended up getting some 20 inch wheels. Just had new Pedders springs put in the rear to level it out, but it's not down far enough so they are going to put some lower rated leafs in at no charge. :banghead: Here's a pic anyway,