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I think I am going to pass on them for the moment, my situation just changed & for now I dont want to spend that much on wheels. Having said that, I ended up around $1300 for gt 18" & $2500 for gtp 18" with sp9000 tyres. both sets are brand new. I priced the sp9000 at around 400 bucks from my local tyre guy so figure they are both similar in price. If anyone is interested drop me a line & I can see if they are still available, & no they are not hot. also maybe this thread should be shifted to the makret section.

I was under the impression the offset are all the same, considering diffs & axles are all the same anyways. What I thought was the centre hub was different, but all will be revealed eventually

I am not 100% but I th8nk these are the wheels, I suppose I could always buy them & sell them if I dont like them on the T, but not sure which they are until I see them soon

just wanted your opinions & advice guys. I have recently been offered a set of BA GT wheels with no tyres. But have read somewhere that the front & rears are different wheels on the GTs, something to do with different hub sizes. This has been confirmed somewhere on the site & also by my tyre guy. What I wanted to know is if they will still fit on my T ute. I have been told they will fit fine, but I cannot rottate wheels cos the rear wheels will have to stay there. To rotate, tyres have to come of the rims. Not a problem for me, just wanted to know if they will fit in the first place. Also, we have not come to an arangement on price yet, so what would u guys think a new set of GT 18s would be worth?, they are brand new but I dont really know there worth.

castrol saf-xa can be bought from repco or bursons & the like. It no contain the sturaco 98 addative so no need to buy it seperately as long as it is resonblw new stock.

I know its not what you are talking about, but there is such a thing as a push button clutch. It is a device that is attached to the clutch pedal via a cable, when the button is pressed, you just shift the gear selector & the cable controls clutch pedal based on throttle position, engine load & speed. I forget the name but was told it had been fitted to hsv clubbies & gts by the wholesaler, I never became a distributor but did look into the system. was marketed for vehicles where no auto was an option or for disabled people who still wanted to drive manuals. Looked like a pretty good system, & I spoke to someone who had it installed & he had no complaints, anyways nothign to do with you were talking about, but made me think of it.

pinging is usually caused by lean mixtures or too much timing advance. One thing to watch is that pinging occurs before the human ear can detect it. So by all means try another fuel cos this can certainly cause it, but if it still pings, take it back to your tuner & he may have a fuel/timing map that is a little less aggressive. Good luck, I hope a fuel change fixes your problem

no I dont wrok for a ford dealer, I work for my self. Its just I am very busy at work & not prepared to give my 9-5 time away for free. Happy to scan after hours for you while I am at home, just send me a pm. As far as what we do-the edit should not affect fault codes & disconnecting a battery will have no effect. With a scan tool-there are quite a few that do it, you simply plug it in, read current codes, print them & then erase them. I was only offering to help out fellow forum members. As far as I know the scanner I have has just about all functions of the original scan tool, & was updated just the other day, I have used it on my own car & it definately views all live data, codes & function. Not claiming to be an expert & I cant edit the original prgramming, I just use it to diagnose faults & the like & to be honest, not too many BA's making it outside of the dealer network just yet anyways for repairs.

For anyone in melbourne I am happy to scan & clear codes for forum mebers for free. I am in mill aprk but there is one catch, I will need to bring the scan tool home from work & need to know before I leave & am limited to when I can do it, if anyone wants it done we can arrange a time & happy to scan codes & or read data for you guys. Cant do it during work hours or I would have to charge for use of my tool, if I do it after hours no charge for site members.

I know this sounds sarcastic, but do your eally think the guy typing the invoice know what type of oil went in your car? He hands the machanic a job card & from there the next thing he will know is 'hey mate, that car is done' spares would have alotted him his parts which will be alocated to your car. He has no idea what went in, sometimes a big difference between what is on paper & what is in youir car. I know of a Expensive Daewoo dealership whos apprentice thought the oil flush was to be left I the car so he added it with new oil every service for over a year! This stuff smells like kero & is to be put in & ran for 15 minutes before oil is drained. Do you really think the service manager knew about this? Another thing that I hate about dealers while I am whinging:- if you read thourgh your manual, inlet manifolds are suposed to be retensioned every service. Give it takes me around 30 minutes to do this, do you really think a dealer is doing this? I hate doing this job, but every ford since EA has been a little prone to these coming loose & cause ing probs. Anyways just my 2 cents worth, not trying to upset anyone, just my hunble opinion.

sorry about the slow reply, been really busy. have emailed you guys so good luck

now calm down firstly. Youi might want to take a look at the ADRs. Current roadworthy laws say you cannot cut the booster vac line as far as I am aware. In a normal car there is only vacuum in there, no pressure, although turbos get pressure when on boost-brake not required then anyways, but mate, there are easy palces to take it with less risk. Whether it is a RWC issue or not, why take the risk? has nothing to do with the clamps, just one more this that might go wrong. To be honest I dont care if you do, was some friendly advice you have obviously taken offense to. I am a qualified tradesman & I would not take this chance with my customer's cars purley because there is no need to.

one thing to note thought, the instructions will tell you to tap into the booster line for vacuum. This is illegal & not a good idea anyways. Better to tap into the vac tree on the inlet manifold under the inlet ducting I thinks.

The plug is similar to OBD2 but it is not the same, may scan tool specifies a different plug for both. I use the launch x431 which is worth about 5k although it is usually advertised for around 7k. it does heaps of cars & spits out millions of different data lines, codes keys & pcms.(security not reflash). The list of info goes on & on, & it can be printed in a reciept style reports. Although most of this info is usless, such as how many discs in a stacker but does even tell me am signal strength. Basically every sensor, button & control unitl can be viewed from tps & boost right through to heater & radio controls. One thing to point out with scan tools is most of them will do the same things, the major contributing factor is the PCM it is communicating with & how fast & talks & what it says. Exmple of this is prior to AU live data was just a dream on fords that Expensive Daewoo technicians could taunt us with! But the BA is pretty good, can check out the instrument cluster, pcm, icc, abs, srs, etc, but is an expensive toy if all you want to do is play. However if u are a software programmer I could send you a copy of the files I download to update, which are small zip file which I puit onto a cf card & then put in the scanner. All launch appaently to is get hold of a factory scanner & copy the software & make it suit their tool. Which is what most of them do, just wont like to admit it. launch have a websire but it is crap, still you can check it out if u like at www.x-431.com Man I sound like an ad for them!

I just want to tell you guys about a positive experience I had with bayfords ford in epping, melbourne. I have enever taken my car to them for service cos I do it myself. I stopped in & told them about a crack in my rear spoiler, my fan squeaks & sometimes doesnt work & the silver panel around my shifter was lifting. I went in to make the booking & chris from service had a look & made a booking for a suitable time for both of us. I dropped it off in the morning & gopt an sms by ab out 11am to say it was ready to be picked up. I colected it at about 5:30 & to my surprise it was washed & vaccummed. A new spoiler, new heater fan motor & new shifter surround. I had also left an expensive ratchet(snap on) under the hood last time I was under there(I know how stupid that is) & it was returned to me when I picked it up. And to be honest I didnt know where it was so they could have kept it & I would not have known. Overall a proffessional & painless experience & I recomend them to all. Chris in service is who I dealt with & I appreciate his service.

I started the initial thread & got a little flack over trying to save a few dollars. Have not been brave enough to try the kit yet which is around 200 bucks. My local repco store has a guy with an ef that he fitted the kit to & thinks it does save him some petrol each week. I am going to wait until someone I know & trust fits a set & ask them for feedback.

when a rack leaks it fills the boots up with oil & you may not see a drip on the ground at all-and power steering fluid is the same as atf fluid-ford tend to use mineral oil with original refill, but most places top up with red auto fluid & you can flush and refill with it if u like too-I have. also power steering should not consume fluid unless something is wrong.

if you take out a few more screws you can get your head in there so u can see, but only head or arm, not both. And as far as the driving lights from hella go- I deal with both ingrams & bursons & usually find bursons cheaper on hella products, if anyone is interested, let me know & happy to get themk for you at cost price.

guys just a question, I have b een seriously tempted to get the edit, but am pretty concerned about the strength of the gear box. I dont wanna have to modify my auto so can I go with the edit & will the box cope?

any of the recomended oils will be fine-your manual tells u whichj ones. I use teh castrol saf-xa aswell. One thing I should note-in my manual, there is a typo making the say saf-fa or something like that. is a full synthetive oil & quite expensive I think we retail it at around 28 dollars a litre & trade is around 18 bucks a litre. The additive is also a little hard to buy through ford as most spares departments dont stock it, and service buy it in specially. Penrite sell a ford diff additive called limslip which is the same stuff, I think the spec is 72980 or something like that, again it says this in the manual. and also in the manual it says to replace your diff oil every 7,500km for frequent highway driving. I replaced mine cos of the common diff whine at 90-95 kmh & found the oil had a fair bit or metal filings in it and replaceing the oil made no difference. Have not bothered going to ford cos by the sounds of it, a replacement diff might be worse!

another way to look at it boys-is stay away from the stone tray. Its too low to be dealing with if you dont have a hoist or dont wanna jack it up. I think the easiest way is to partially undo the stone shield in the wheel arch. Turn the steering wheel full locki to expose it-remove a few clips & screw & you can get your hand right in behind the light. Then you can use a small screw driver to release the clips & push the entire lamp insdie the spolier. Dont turn the screw as a few previous posts have mentioned, it has no help with removal & is only for adjustment of the lamp. There are clips u can press from inside the spoilet if u dont want to use the screwdriver, I find themk hard to push in-not enough give in the plastic-just dont push too hard. You can easily break the pivot point. hope this helps-one other things, be careful of puting higher wattage globes cos newer lamps are made of plastic instead of glass & higher globes or non uv cut globes can damage them. go for a plus 50 or similar blue style globe which are same wattage but higher light output. and a h1 or h3 should retail at around 8-9 bucks or up to 16-17 for the arctice blue or plus types all the newer narva, hella & phillips are uv reduced and just a point hella globes & many others are manufactured by phillips anyways or it might be optilux, the h4s in the headlights are hella plus 50 from new I pulled mine out to change them & they are identical to the ones I had to put in.

I dont recomend the graphite puirely cos it is messy stuff. Ford actually sell a lube for window channels that comes with a nozzle that can get right into the slides/channels, I sue it all the time, prefer it over wd40 etc, although silicone spary works pretty well too

it possibly could be a fuel pump, they are know to have this symptom, but is not a common thing for pumps in general. Shoulod be easy enough to get the tank level to the level where the fault occurs then pop into an auto elec or mechanic. The should easily be able to do a fuel pressure & flow test which will show fuel delivery. & also get them to check pump current draw, not with an amp meter though, use a amps probe & a scope. This can show any wear in the motor commutator &/or an indication if there are anyblockages. A blocked filter or crushed fuel pipe increase load on the pump which is refelcted in its current draw. these checks can conclusively test the fuel delivery system. Also the scan data while the fault is occuring shoulod easily see injector pulse widthes & o2 sensor readings which will give an indication of where the fault lies

it is quite comon for exhaust bolts to break or come loose mainly due to constant flexing & expansion. Also different metalt do this at different rates to bolts, manifolds & turbos are all doing diferent things this is why brakeages, loosening & stuff occurs, happens to all exhuasts too not just turbos, just seems slightly worse on a turbo. Example, 4 cyl magna will almost always breaks the stud highest on the passenger side of the manifold regiualrly cos the alloy head flexes diffently to the cast manifold. And if you read your service bookx, manifolds, both inlet & exhaust are to be checked for tightnes every service. I find inlets come loose on all fors since EA pretty regularly. Given this can take 30-40 minutes on an inlet sometimes-even more on the NAs with gas, how often do you think ford do it on service?

un less you can see visible leaks it sounds like the clutch slave which is in the bell housing-box out to fix