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best was to do it is to scan the SRS system. If the light is on it will store a code which can be used to check it out. saves time & is safer than pulling random parts apart. Also, as far as I know these do not have flash codes so the flashing of the dash sounds a little wierd to me.

navman products are pretty good, I have the old icn 630 in my car, if u do a search u can see my setup. The reason for the post is I sell them & can get all navman products & software at nearly cost price for you, pm me if interested.

mate I seriosuly hope you dont have to eat this one! This guy is not happy is 60k car isnt perfect! ford screwed him around & I dont wantto do the same! I will have another look next week & will see how it goes, I hope your suggestions fix it!

Hope someone can give me some advice. I recently fitted a nokia ck-7w bluetooth phone kit to a super pursuit ute. I have installed many of these including my own with no problems. However, this one has a lot of engine noise throught the speakers when driving. It is quite loud & not good enough to leave as it is. The phone plug you usually connect to is a little different though. It actually has another plug in it that runs off somewhere, & has a piggy back so there is a usable plug for the phone. I assume this is to power up another accessory. I am thinking of putting in a noise surpressor, but am unsure if I should put it right at the phone wires? hoping one of you radio super heroes will have the answer for me. by the way, this guys super prusuit is pretty cool, but give me a T anyday!

yeah I suppose I can do that, if you are based in melbourne I can do them in an hour or so if you like. but I do have a spare for my own car which I could use as a change over unit.

heaps of places do an a/c system deodouriser, is readily available from repco & bursons. use it often and it works ok. unfortuneately the a/c box is the perfect breeding ground for bacteria-cold, dark +moist. so u might have to use every now and then. u can also shoot in in through where the pollen filter/mesh is.

when I do them, I find it easier to solder an smd resisitor to an smd led, then atach that little device across the original pcb. Have done 4-5 now & find this the easiest, neatest way.

TAB, I do the same to get around the problem. Its as though every now & then I have 2nd gear after manual shifting. 95% of the time when stopping in 2nd after manual it gives me first gear when I take off, its just the occasional time when I am not expecting it I get this thud.. It feels to me like maybe something is leaking hydraulically & allowing 2nd gear to partially apply. probably not the case, but what is feels like. anyways it has been so intermittents I have not really worried about it, but if someone finds a solution I would love to hear it.

I have had a similar problem since new. I have no clues on its fix & would like to see how you go. All I can offer is a description of my fau;y, I have never worried about it, cos it is very intermittent. Basically when coming to a stop in manual mode, if I have not manually slected 1st, it as if it stays in 2nd. I dont notice anything until I take off. It feels like it tries to take of in 2nd, quickly realises its not right & shifts to 1st. So the affect is a firm thud or clunk on take off. hope this helps & let us know how you go

when scanning a car with corerct tool, there is an option to reset KAM value which will reset shift points, driving style, etc. If you dont do this after a reapir or mod, the pcm will eventually learn it anyways. I find all disconnecting a battery does is annoy me when I gotta rest radio staions & clock. car will idle a little different for a while, but does not take long to reset. But just as a point of interest, some cars, mostly nissans with eccs system like vl Late model camira retain certain values for up to 6 monthes! These cars did not have an adaptive learn strategy but did get what I call bad learns on the idle system. The best way to fix was remove the ecu & short out the relevant capacitors which would cure the problem. As far as turning on headlight to drain capacitors, this will work if the capacitors are ont he same circuit but they may not be. Basically, I would not worry & if you have already done it, you wont havea drama any way

You are right, from a technical point of view, a human can out brake abs. But the catch is, most of us are not good enough to do it. & the other thing is ABS gets it right 100% of the time, humans can never hope for this. As far as switching it of, simply unplugging a wheel sensor or switching a main power wire would do the job. Problem is it would make it unroadworthy & would think no insurance company woul;d cover you in case of accident. I have wiring diagrams & think ABS system are fairly simply, but they do not get controlled by the PCM so edit cant help. However, I dont think many people will give you the diagrams for this reason, is a little dangerous & probably even puts us in a situation where liability may come into play.

yes if yopu put your foot fl;at to the floor, most cars will enter clear flood mode. Injector pulse widthes will be shortened. When the engien fires, you should take your foot off the pedal, there is no need to rev it hard. It may run poorly, but should still run. I agree revving it hard on start up is not a good thing, but am pretty sure no damage will be done by the RACV doing it once. Trust me, every apprentice to drive an XR6T has revved it on start up, I know yours was an XT.

heat definately afect them, causes internal plates & insualtions to buckle causing shorts in insulations inside which reduces capacity. One other thing, most maitainence free batteries or not what they say! They are usually just low maintainence with the caps sealed or covered. The true maitainecne free ones which are one like ac delco have a accumulator on top of battery which collects gas then drains it back in as it condenses. Theere are other brands I just cant think of them. Also when a battery runs dry, it usually buckles the paltes & it wont be much good, but this is only a general rule. I finbd battery life is usually 3-5 years. as a battery ages this can be shown with either a load test or resistance/capacitence test but open circuits cannot really be tested for.

just as a side note, I didnt think my ac was cold enough when I got it. Threw the guages on & thought the pressures were a bit low so topped it up a little(50g-75g) & it dropped a degree or 2, I think ford err on the side of low just in case. By the way, all these new a/c laws and regs are a pain in the ass, the cost of having a licence has at least tripled in the last few years! might even try hychill instead of 134a next time I can be bothered, anyone got it in there BA, I know a few guys who have it in there AU & think it is great, just a thought anyways, but I know it is illegal in QLD.

yes that can happen. It is an open circuit in the battery causing now current flow at all. Is actually pretty common, but I have heard it happen maybe 15-20 times(I am an auto elec) in recent years. The weird thig is, I have only heard of it happening in falcons! from EA right thru to BA though. Construction is same for both holden & fords, just physical chrachteristics differ. Load from stereos & such dont reallymake a difference as far as I know. When I go on a big trip I just make sure I pack my booster pack just in case. Then again, I have even taken a spare battery before! But this is easy for me considering I only pay about 50 bucks for one & stock them anyways, so I can put it back on the shelf if I dont need it. but regardless, it is something you can do little about. Seems to be exide batteries that do it most, and I think they manufacture for other major brands too, but not too sure as I dont sell them. well just my 10 cents worth.

be very careful about bashing the rotors. The handbrake shoes can catch on a 'lip' or sometimes are just over adjusted. If this is the case & you do bash them, the clip that retains the handbrake shoes can get damaged & not hold the shoes on properly which will result in the"shhh shhh" noise that is pretty common. A slikght tap is ok, but not too hard. If in doubht, rotate the disc around until the handbrake shoe adjust is visible through the disc & adjust it off so the rotor can pull off. Count the clicks & when the new disc is on just put it back in the same place. Although sometimes new discs can be slightly different & the original adjustment may not be right, just adjust them so the shoes dont touch the discs when handbrake is off but still lock the discs up when handbrake is up!

travis, I have an auto window raiser in my car & I ran a power supply wire into the door. From memory it was extremely easy. I think I ran the wire where there were some spare pins are. But mine is a ute so maybe those pins may be used for the rear doors on a sedan. Regardless of that, speaker wires are usually pretty thins & you can probably push it through the plug anyways.

mate, not exactly sure why you got chills, but anyways, if you want your cart scanned let me know. pm me & I can give u my phone number & we can arrange scanning your car.

if anyone wwants codes scanned or deleted I am happy to do it free of charge. Am in nth suburbs have a scanner that I know works really well on my own car. Looks at PCM, ICC, ABS, SRS, HVAC, basically every thing right down to the fuel guage ^ steering wheel controls! as I said, happy to scan cars for members free of charge & we can have a look around to see the data if you are interested. Alls sensors, inputs & outputs are readily accessable.

the drilled & slotted rotors do tend to crack between holes, just due to the fact it creates a weak point. harder braking tends to make this worse. But as far as brake fluid, you should change it every 2 - 2.5 years, not only ni the resevoir, but flush the lines, or master failure ends up common in later years. As far as pads go, the bendix CT are a pretty god pads, but not designed for heavy duty or hard applications. I thinbk they are basically to try and help people forget how crappy the advance & premium range of pads were!

I know its a bit late, but I will add my 2 cents worth. A collet in the sump is very unlikely to cause drama. The oil pick up's strainer is a fairly coarse mesh, probably of similar size to the sort of stuff you might put up as shade for a pergola, but of course it is metal wire. So there is no chance of it picking up the collet. The collet is likely to suit harmlessly at the mottom of the sump. However, it depends on where they dropped it. If they dropped it down the front timing case cover that could do damage, most liely straight away, but it could sit somewhere & bounce of & drop into the chain area & do lotsa damage there. someting else to check, did they put another collet on? I know sounds stupid but if they only put one collet on top of the valve it might drop out under a lot of load. I think the most liely case is on valve not assemble properly & let go when u gave it a thrash, the problem is, how do you prove it? I know not alot new in this post, but it my opinion & I would lie to know how u go. Last of all, sorry to hear, always heartbreaking when your car goes bang.

what are the 968's worth, I just spoke to a supplier who can get them for me and was wondering what you guys paid for them.

BAs have one coil pack per plug(6) & the pack is driven by the pcm. I can give you wire color is u need, have a diagram, should be no drama. Also as far as using the tacho wire to drive it, you could probably use a bosch bim024 ignition module to trigger from a small tacho signal & amplify it to a tacho worthy signal, but never tried this. One thing to note if you are gonna tap into the coil driver wires is they will be only 1/6th of the normal signal. You normally tap inot coil neg which pulses for every spark, the coil driver wires will only pulse once for every 6 normal pulses, but a good tacho/shift light may have provission for this. commodores have 3 coil packs so signal 3 times more often than a ba will, but they also provide a tacho wire. cyl 1: green cyl 2: white cyl 3: white cyl 4: red cyl 5: blue cyl 6: red above are neg sides of coil coil pos is common to all & is pink/green

dynowog, I am still thinking about the edit, but would like to know, in general, how are the autos & diffs holding up with the extra grunt? this is one thing that concerns me.

they are in melbourne