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p1131-o2 sensor 1 lean condition p1132-o2 sensor 1 rich condition although these contradict each other this could be cause by faulty sensor, or problem with tuning, air leaks, etc if the code only stored once & is a history code I wouldnt stress too much a gas analiser & scope on the sensor should confirm prety easily if they are working, the code may have stored when someone was working on it if its a once of. running with a coil of can trigger rich codes, of vac leaks can trigger lean codes. has it logged.

I will look it up tommorow to be sure but ho2 would normally refer to a heated oxygen sensor. & if it is not switching this normally refers to either a faulty oxygen sensor or the reich or lean exhaust mixture & the sensor cannot coorect enough to signal. The sensor is only basically capable of correcting a certain margin and if it cant correct it wont switch-they need to be checked with a scope cos a scann tool's live data is not fast enough to give recation times, the should switch at around 7-9 cross counts per 10 seconds. anyways I will look at the code list tommorow & confirm

not sure about the BF alternators, but the BA & rpevious have all been the same. The all have internal regulators, but achieve results differently depending on manufacturer. The can have Bosch, MItsubishi or motocraft. But the all work on simialr theory. The regulator has a supply wire attached directly to the battery which is different to the charging output wire. It uses this to sense load & rgulates the field current accordingly. the longer field's duty cycle is on the more it will charge. this is regulated to maintain around 14.5v under all loads. Some vehicle have one way clutch connected to the drive pulley which is to smooth out rotation & lessen loads in certain situations where the engine potentially spins slower than the alternator. I have never seen one on a falcon, usually only on mercs,opels & other euro crap. as far as switching off for efficiency, the alternator will charge less when required by lessening field current when conditions allow, which in turn lessens engine load from an alternator & saves fuel & emmissions, cos I dont know if anyone has tried, but when an alternator fires up & tries to charge they are bloody hard to turn

nearly every manufacturer recomends 30% or 50%. dont use pre mixes & tectaloy is not much good from what I am told. Go for a long life organic coolant. the 500ml concentrates do not offer enough protection, especially in a large system like a ford. We have dip strips that are like litmus paper & they show protection levels. can be bought from repco or bursons to be used to find out protection levels. you need 33% of glycol. this provides both anti rust & anti boil/freeze protection. the system will have about 10-12 litres so you put in about 3-4 litres of concentrate and top up with water. the 500ml bottle are usually just for top ups. also if you put in a pre-mix, that doesnt account for the a water still in the block., even if you remove the block drain plugs you wont get it all out. there has been a lot of debate in the industry as to how to do it, but long story short. every one agrees with good flush & add cooloant at manufacturers recomended concetration. failure to do so may void warranty

be careful with running cold water through a hot engine. ever put a dish from the freezer into a hot oven or visa versa?

when I flush them I drain the radiator as suggested, the pull off a heater hose or just a hose that is easy to remove. The I start the car & run it with the hose off & a garden hose either into the heater hose I tookj of or in the header tank. The idea is the water pump will pump out any coolant left in the block. Only runj it for about 30-40 seconds, dont want to do any damage. when the water runs clear I stick the hose in the other way & back flush, both with engine off & with it running. It is extremely important not to mix coolants as some mixtures will have adverse affects. When it is all clear, drain radiator with either drain plug or bottom radiator hose. Then you top up coolant-most tune up/service books will give you total refill figures of cooling system. a falcon is usually around 15 litres, but I think the exact amount will be in the owners manual. Then you need to know concentration-usuallly 30-33% although 50% is prety common so just look in your manual. With a drained radiator, pour in the coolant. pour in the full amount of coolant so for example a 15litre system at 30%, pour in 4.5 litres(use a good brand, and long life coolant is a good idea) top up with water. dont forget to bleed air out of engine from highest point

a coil pack is not going to cause a lack of power as such. if it fails you will get a lack of power, but its also gonna have a solid missfire. I would suggest hooking up a vac guage & see what is happeneing first. when the fault occurs is nice to see how much boost you are getting. also try scanning ecu for codes, might be one stored.

hey kawerx, was it a complete naula you got? if so can you send me the link to where you got it, I would want one for sure.

and anopther thing, since it should be covered by warranty, you should not have to pay for the inspection, cos if the clutch didnt fail you wouldnt need them right! and as far as flywheel machine, did you ever get a pedal pulsation from the clutch when applying or releasing? this is why you machine flywheel. hot spots are gonna develop no matter what, they can be made worse by a slipping/ failing clutch I dont think I would be paying for that either...........anyways good luck, am glad I bought an auto!

sgazzy, I run a small mechanical/auto elec shop so I can offer my opinion from both repairer & owner's point of view. firstly on how a clutch works is pretty simple. you basically have a clutch kit which contains clutch plate, pressure plate, spigot bearing-sold separately through dealers & in kit form aftermarker usually. clutch plate has the friction material & is basically 2 discs stuck together over a spring arangement & rivvetted together-this is the wearing component of a clutch pressure plate-is the clamping device that presses the clutch plate against the flyhweel to tranfer power from engine to gearbox & contains the 'finger' you talked about. spigot bearing is attached to clutch fork whcih presses pressure plate fingers to release clutch when clutch is in it relaxed position(pedal up) the pressure plate clamps everything tight which transfer torgue to gear box, pressing pedal presses on pressure plate's fingers which release clamping on pressure plate & allows everything to slip. so half pressing a pedal allows a certain degree of slip. sorta like if you press to coins together, the harder you press the less they will slip. the cluthc plate is a wearing items-I would say if it was worn & causing slipage, this would be normal wear & tear, but this does not sound like your fault. If the fingers on the pressure plate collapse or lose tension, when you press the pedal there is less resistance & this is why you get that spongey feel. I would say if this occured before the plate wore out it is just a failure & should be covered by warranty. No matter how hard or slow you drive, pressure plate faulire is not you fault as far as I know. the diaphram that fails in the pressure plate & causes the fingers to lose tension should outlast the pressure plate, so I think you have a good. The only probalem is clutches are not always covered as they are deemed wearing items, but as I said clutch plate is wearing item, pressure plate is not. best of luck, I hope this helps

If that is the case it would be easy enough to hook an ipod to standard sound, just ground the mute wire & your ipod can play through the stereo, it will just say phone or whatever on it.

WHAT IT MEANS BY REMOVING LIGHTS IS RESETTING ECU TO TURN OF ANY CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS. SOME CARS WHEN THEY LOG A CODE, EVEN JUST BY UNPLUGGING SOMETHING, TURN ON THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT & IT WONT GO OFF UNTIL RESET. I ASSUME THIS IS WHAT THEY MEAN BY TURNING OFF LIGHTS.

what is the unit worth & would it be suitable to sort out the same whine that is on the mobile phone circuit?

current draw is the cause-well sorta. basically the cruise "see's" earth through the globes, when they are activated via stop light switch it no longer sees earth due to the 12v sent down that line. This is in confilct with popular belief that the system is looking for the 12v that is sent from stop light switch. I tried them in my ute about 18 monthes ago and struck same problem. A plus with the led globes is the lack of current draw & therefore less load on items like switches & connections, but problem is they confuse somew electronics. the simplist way to solve would be some sort of load simulator which coujld be connected in parallel to the stop light circuit. I looked into it but could never be bothered, seemed that the effort required was more than replacing the odd globe.

mongoose in mine too, but any alarm upgrade porduct will do the job, I have had a long asssoiation with mongoos so I stick with em.

I was told by my dealer that they get replace with new ones when under a certain amount of km, & get rebuilt if done over a certain amount of km. The rebuilt option was the way to go, cos they are done properly, the new ones are built to a cost.......one that is obvioulsy not high enough. I want to get mine sorted out-have a whine at 80-100kmh but dont wanna risk getting a worse one!

mate, just go to a local beaurepaires of bob jane, they will give you new ones, easier than dealing with dealerships

no special procedures, you should bleed them farthest from the mast as a general rule. But as long as u dont run it out of fluid, the order wont matter that much. you can safely use the pedal pump method, vac or gravity bleed-have tried them all & no drama.

I can fit auto up to an y car with electric windows. It is not actually part of the alarms, it is a sperate unit thet is often triggered by an alarm. I have mine set up so when u lock the doors it closes the windows, one at a time unless the key is on. pretty cheap, but I think the mods will not like me to post prices. Having said that, the unit is easily available, & any auto elec should be able to handle it.

the engine can only draw in what it requires. Engine vacuum sucks in what it needs, this is measured by air mass meter or map sensor in the falcons case. The idea of the cold air intake is really to get in cooler, & therefore denser air which combusts better. Basically I dont hink you could put in too many cold air intakes, but it would be a waste of time, you can only get in so much air.

you guys are correct in saying that it has to be plugged into a machine to down load the info but there is an alternative. You acn just dismantle part of the ICC & retain the orginal parts that are linked. Have never done this but read somewhere you could swap certain parts over to avoid relearning the security info. I have never tried it cos I have a tool that you can relearn a new icc with.

the first time I hit mine I was down shifting, shifted from 4-3 (auto to sprots mode)under brakes, nothing really happened so flicked it again, but it dropeed 2 gears! bounced hard off the limiter & I shat myself!

you can actually go to beaurepaires & they will no questions asked or charges fit new tyres. I had done 45,000 & they put a new set on for me

ring mongoose themselves in sydney. They will give you a recomended installer near to you. 02 9482 4444. An advantage of this is if there are any dramas, you will have used an approved installer & they will support them if required.

another thing you can try, is pop in & see your local auto elec or mechanic & ask them to 'smoke test' your engine. Should not cost too much. We use a machine that pumps smoke into the inlet system, fill it up & if there are any leaks you can see smoke pour out. We usually charge around 30 bucks to do at as will most places. Is a prtty common machine so make a few calls if you cant sort your problme out & I am sure someone close will have one.