cqae

make sure the plug's clips are fulley out when you refit the icc. if they are not in the correct position, the icc plug wont snap fully into place & pins can be bent or damaged

LOL, I dont have any lamingtons here so some of you guys might be out of luck! & I often do it while people wait, dont see the sense of making someone leave their car for the sake of 5-10 minutes. Just inb case anyone wonders, I dont ever disconnect the battery, but I do unclamp it to give me that little extra room. I dont have particulalrly small hands but just seem to do it this way based on the time it would take. & being a proffessional, I wont be sticking the glass up anyone's ass!-might be tempted to make you eat it though!

yeah no worries mate. But actually the originals in mine were the same as hella plus50 globes I think even the hella globes are manufactured by osram or phillips

give me a call on 0411 724 979 & we can arrange something. I am just out of the city & dont wirry $40 bucks for both is more than I will charge-just let me know when you are coming in so I can make sure I am around.

the illuminated window switches has been done by mnay here including myself-what state are you in?

the original use of foglights is to shine low & under the fog-normal headlights actually refelct of fog & dazzle the driver. Ideally in extreme fog, headlights go off & fog lights are used.

pretty sure it just pulls out

I am not 100%, but I think the high & low series would be different bems.

I dont have a set charge for fog lights, but have done mine a few times too- I think I would charge around 20-30 bucks for fitting. as far as the globe types, I hav e found the phillips bluevision pretty good. You will find the xrs come standard with hella +50s. When I tried these I found hella ones to have the same markings as the ones I took out from original. I found the bluevisions to be not so much brighter, but a whiter clearer light. I am using these now & think they are pretty good

I never disconnect the battery-hate loosing radio codes, settings, adaptive strageies. nothing worse than fitting a simple globe for a customer then the car wont idle or the radio wont work. I suppose it just takes a bit of practice. I dont have particualrly small hands, its just the way I do it I guess. worse bit is actually unplugging the wires-the rest is easy,a ctually just did mine alst night so am very familiar!

guys, I serioulsy thank all of you for your input. I didnt think it was too much-I have done heaps of these & can do them in a few minutes-lots practice on mine! I agree these are not the sort of customers I want but was starting to worry a little with a few in a couple of days. I gotta admit they suck to change, but still you get used to it-I changed mine a half a dozen times in 2 weeks when I first got it experimenting with different globes & got plenty of practice. and I agree I think a tradesmen should be paid what they are worth. it takes years to become qualified and even though a headlight globe is pretty easy, there are still things that can go wrong. anyways I will stick to my $20 charge & hope no-one else whinges! thanks again guys

I just wanted your opinions guys. I am an auto elec in the inner city area of melbourne. In the last few days I have had a few little run ins with fitting headlights to BAs. They have all been driver's side globes, knowing how annoying they are to change I have told my customer, it will be $20 for me to supply & fit a new globe while they wait. 3 times I have been told this is too expensive & they have driven off. I think this is fair & reasonable for a fully qualified auto elec to charge for this I am just wondering what you guys think? I am using good globes which I buy in bulk, not quite your exclusive premium type, but I do stock these & offer them at additional charge. Also I am not just talking XR6s one was the other was a stock falcon & one was a cab.

anled tester is not really accurate enough & a gas analiser doesnt always react quick enough. The correct way to test an O2 sensor is with an oscilliscope. The BA has 4 wires-to are pos & beg for the sensors heater circuit, the other 2 are ground & signal. The signal wire should out put a waveform that changes 7-8 times per 10 second period from aroun .1-.8 volts-higher voltage indicates rich, low indicates lean. if less than 7-8 crosscounts, then sensor is 'azy' & needs to be replaced. If constantle rich or lean induce the reverse symptom & check for chagnes, o2 sensors need to react instantly. I use carby clean to richen them up, make sure the sensor peaks the drop to normal operation. These test must be done at normal operatin temp-a scan tool can also tell you if it is in closed loop. Multi meter reding are not sufficient as the will not give an indication of reation time or cross counts. your local auto elec will have all the equipment required as will many mechanical workshops. we store & print waveform images and give them as a report when testing.

when I switch mine off my turbo can be heard spinning for about 15-20 seconds after switch off. has done this since day one, actualy sound a bit like noisy bearing or even a vac leak hissing down. I dont think its anything to worry about though

thanks for you replies-I have actually decided to keep it- the guy had not paid a deposit & there were some outside circumstances making me hold on to it whether I wanted to or not. Luckily the buyer was very understanding. I was gonna drive around alittle buzz box for a year that dive into an f6! love the dejavu color!

guys, just wanted your opinions on price. I just sold my ute for 25k & think I might have let it go too cheap. what do you think they are worth turbo, auto, phantom, '03, 60,000km, hardtop & spoiler, alarm, tint, new sp3000 tyres, auto window up, illum window switches, bluetooth phone kit, excellent condition oil & filter every 5,000km, no mods except CAI, 6 disc cd/prestige sound

actually, running wires through that door rubber is quite easy. just pull back the rubber & ther will be plenty or room to poke through wires-might even be a 10mm bolt in there to undo- mine has a few spares ins but it might cos its a ute.

will look ata diagram when I get a chance. but of the top of my head I would say you are seeing live feed 'through' the globe. If using a multi meter or a led light, they will show live feed through a globe while it is not earthed. Make sure the switch is all connected(sometimes the mount screw is the earth circuit) check out what the wires do when the switch is opened & closed. There is no other way of doing it, it has to either ground when open or live feed when opened-99% of cars will ground when door is opened. One catch watch out for interior light delay circuits that will keep the light on or switch grounded for a short period ofter door is closed. hope this helps

I know this is an old thread but anyway here goes. I have been umming & ahhing about which fluid to put in my auto. I am completely stock, but edit is on my to do list. Was looking at transmax z & spoke to both castrol & my auto guy. Basically the transmax is a synthetic equiv for dex3 but not for tq95. The tq95 was designed with BTR specifically fot their boxes. Castrol do not state transmax as an equivelant to tq 95 so even though there are plently of you out there with no dramas I am a little to soft to try myself! I always thought the at fluid was designed with particular clutches, seals & amterials in mind & swapping fluids may not suit particular components.-anyways, I am gonna stick with tq 95 I think unless somone convinces me otherwise in the next 3-4 hours, cos this arvo I am gonna flush my auto

BA cooling system capacity is 10.3-10.5 litres according to my service info. with a concentration of 33% so doing the maths you need to put about 3.5 litres of coolant in. You could safely put in up to about 5 litres in that was you can afford to dilute the system a little with top ups & still maitain between 30-50%. If the coolant you bought is recomending you put 9 litres in it must be a premix. It is near impossible to put all 10 litres in even though this is the capacity. I drain the radiator & fill through the thermo housing until no more gos in. put the thermo back in & bolt it up then tip the rest in through the bottle. Usually only get aroun 6-7 litres in total, that's just my 10cents worth, its how I dow it & we have done hundreds of falcons at my shop. as far as coolants go, I like the organic long life coolants. The last for 5 years & are lest destructive when whey end there life. Also are much more conmpatable with contaminants. Ours is orange & stands out when a leak develops so is an aid in finding leaks eventually

coolant sdhould do both raise boiling point & lower freezing point. also, stray current is exaclty what it says-stray. usually a loose earth lead so the electrical device in question tries to earth through the cool creating this problem. was never a problem with the old copper radiators but has become an issue with newer plastic tanked cars. it can kill a radiator in a matter of weeks from what I have heard, although IU have never seen it this bad. We have a little tester that just lights up, but basically a multimeter can detect it in the coolant. the other issue you guys have brought upo is called electrolisis which is created but suspending to disimilar metals in a fluid. This creates a cell which makes one of the metals deterorate. inhibitor is used to prevent this, a good coolant should have both. at 30% levels are adequate, the protection properties of coolant increase with concentration until about 60% when they start to fall away. you will find in some of the crappier cars-eg daewoo the concentration was raised top 50% I thinks it to protect an engine that is a little suseptable to corrosion issues

doesnt the manual specify 15w40 or something like that? The 10w type oils seem too thin to me, they are the thinner oils that the non turbo's use. I change my oil & filter every 5,000km & just use a caltex mineral oil. I dont drive it hard around the track, its just a daily driver. Have found my oil to be reasonably clean on oil changes, but still pretty black. I agree 15,000 is way too long, seals are still made of the same stuff & are gona go hard & leak if you wait the 15,000km. But then again why would ford care? This wont happen during the warranty period but will help with fleet service costs. Unfortunately we find lots of cars that come through my work with oil leaks at around the 100,000km-130,000km or 4-5 years old, too long in between services. and then again if I am wrong, well early oil changes certainly wont do any harm!

now that the edit has been around for ages-how are all the auto's holding up? I have been putting the edit off for fear of my auto dying. I just want to edit-run a fairly safe custom tune-was hoping around 8-10psi. nothing crazy just a little extra go-no dramas with the auto now but am still a little worried.

the qfm's you guys are using, are they the standard qfm's or the premium types they do?

p1131-o2 sensor 1 lean condition p1132-o2 sensor 1 rich condition although these contradict each other this could be cause by faulty sensor, or problem with tuning, air leaks, etc if the code only stored once & is a history code I wouldnt stress too much a gas analiser & scope on the sensor should confirm prety easily if they are working, the code may have stored when someone was working on it if its a once of. running with a coil of can trigger rich codes, of vac leaks can trigger lean codes. has it logged.