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there is also a 2 pin plug for audio input so you can play the phone through the stereo

feel the water, if its warm, then suspect the heater core, if its cold most likely just the condensation from the a/c system-& the drain off tube might be blocked. it is supposed to gather water like that & drain it out under the car

clean the throttle body then reset the keep alive memory while engine is warm

havew a suearch through the general tech thread & look up a recent thread of mine for a simialr fault. every on seems to be having actuator problems but the one I had was different. try disconnecting door actuators to see if the fault persists. this rules out the actuators. you can try disconencting the rf reciever too from under the icc or at the top where it is situated. the fix on the one I was playing with was a bem.

thanks every one for their input. especially the person who sent me some info too, I forget who it was but sincerely thank you for your effort, if I find the email I will mention you personally. I should also mention, it wasnt actually my car, it was one I am working on, but same stuff, so couldnt be bothered with those details! but also got the fix-it was the bem. ended up fitting a new one, used my scanner to code the new bem & keys back into system & all is fine. I found if I disconnected the rf reciever, the fault disappeared as far as the locks popping back up were concerned but but the scan data told me the rf unit was recieving signals as it will show last revceieved button press in the data. also the fault still occurred with both doors disconnected(you could still hear the bem clicking & pwoer pulsing to wires at door actuator. anyways a few grey hairs later & problem solved, thanks to all those who took the time to try to help

just a note on the silicon spray-I would suggest not to use it as it can be harmful to o2 sensors.

yeah checked all fuses. when you use the key in the door, it locks ok, but then most times will unlock by itself after about 1-5 mins randomly. if you lock with the key, then lock with the remote, the horn beeps to let you know the doors are already locked.

sorry for taking so long, only just arounf to looking at this & forgot I made this post. I have tried disconecting both door actuators but it still does it-I can hear the clicking from the bcm. its as if the drivers door has been opened & the icc is opening the door for it. but the passengers door stays locked. basically, when I press the lock button on the icc or press the snib down, randomly the drivers door unlocks afyter varying times. am thinking bcm but gonna do some more tests tommorow. its actually a customers car & I am just getting into it tonight

I cant lock the ute. when I press the lock button on the remote, nothing happens. when I press the snib down manually, it pops back up after about 10 seconds, but not all the time. when I press the snib down then press lock on my remote, the indicators flash to say its already locked. unlock on the remote seems fine & I know the remotes are fine cos I have tried them on another car. its like someone has opened a door to pop the locks up, or they are stuck in open position so it wont listen to lock when remote is pressed. hope someone has seen this before & can help me

commonly the arm on the actuator breaks, its a little plastic piece. you can hear the motor moving when the dieal is turned, but not heat changed is the regular symptom. unfortuneatly its a dash out job

most aftermarket scan tools will do the relearn anyways guys, so if you ask your local auto elec or mechanic they will probably be a little cheaper

yeah you can fit one almsot anywhere on them. there will be spare wires, you will be running a 14 pin plug-2 rows of 7 pins. both rows will have 2 spare wires on them that dont do anything but will have wires in them running back up the loom. the blue wire-I think its pin 6 or 7. this is the service brake pin, you should run wire from the unit all the way to the plug as the wire in most 5 or 7 core is not adequate. as far as units go, I mostly sell tekonsha or redarc, I would recomend redarc cos they are smaller & easier to mount, where as the tekonsha one, the prodigy series is the worlds largest selling unit, they both work well. but the tekonsha one has to be mounted horizontally & with 0-90degree angle, which can be sometimes a little hard. the redard does not look as good but can be mounted in any location or position.

coil packs are only about 30-40 bucks these days-I got a few of them genuine about 6 monthes ago & now everyone is doing them aftermarket.

yeah mate, its defiately possible. try electric life in melbourne./sydney. they are a supplier of mine & have mentioned it to me before-I have never fitted one but their products have been ok in the past

I wont be the remote-and on the ed the reason for the failure is not contacts being too close, its the foam in between perishing. It used to happen all the time, I have not struck it on a ba but I assume the have a similar set up around the air bag.

I had a similar problem with mine when I first got it. leaked near passengers head only in heavy rain. the seam under that black strip of rubber had a hole in it. unfortunhately, I have since seen quite a few BA's with pretty pathetic seams where 2 panels are joined together. Mine used to leak in the car wash too-so I used that to pin point where it leaks from. If yours is leaking at your feet, I assume on the outer side, I would guess a windscreen or the seam that runs along the roof about 2-3 inches in from the door line

the wiring is not there. But it could easily be picked up down along the foot panel where the wiring runs along the side to the rear of the car

I only vaguely know him though a mate. Last time I spoke to him he told me he had the piggy back set up

the green wire controls the relay for the headlights. find the headlight relay & determine if the switch supplies neg or pos to trigger relay. A standard incandesant test light is great for this because you can trigger a relay through the tester with no probs. the extra green wire then conencted to either pos of neg which is what will be switched to the relay control wire when the light sensor determines it so.

regassing will not fix it. it is a bacteria build up inside the evaporator. easily fixed with a/c system disinfectant

this is a repairable situation. ICC to be removed & repaired. get dislodged inside-can hapen in an accident.

IF YOU ARE GONNA SWAP THE ENTIER UNIT, THE ICC WILL NEED TO BE RELEANED INTO THE PCM VIA A SCAN TOOL. HOWEVER IT IS POSSIBLE TO SWAP THE BCM'S & MODULES SO THIS IS NOT REQUIRED.

my thinking as to why it says 80kph or less is because of the diff. different rolling diameters would result in damage to the diff at high speed for prolonged periods cos the wheels wouild rotate at different speeds

I am pretty sure the radio controls also work through the closckl spring, but it could be half broken or hal unplugged. & yes you are right, best way to test it is via a scan tool, most shops can do the BA now so a local repaired should be able to handle it

sorry, I miss read that. If not a fuse, try checking the relays have not been dislodged. easist way to fix I would guess is trace the fan circuits back. have a close look at where u ran the wires, in case u knocked a plug or something off