Ninka

Well, I'll be there, so at least there will be 2 of us

Glad to have been able to help Cheers

I know, I know, been busy training our 2 German Shepherd puppies for the past 6-7 months, but I'll come for ride on Friday. See ya

Careful grinding, quick smack with a hammer and chisel and off she comes. If you have access to heat, then heating the ring may see it come off as well. Whole hub has to be replaced, as bearings are non-replaceable

Spot on The Typhoon use the AFL 101 which is the same as the GT and other V8's, it's shorter and the thread is larger than on the AFL-1 (Z9).

OK guys, might come along for a look-see, and make sure you all behave Will have to see if I can get my newly 're-birthed' BF F6 look-alike washed and polished in time for a cruise on Friday

You're right on the money for the skirt, except there is no reason for all these piston manufacturers to run skirts shorter than stock, which most of them seem to do. Law of physics dictate that the skirt load with a shorter piston is GREATLY increased, as there is less leverage preventing the piston from turning in the cylinder, and thus more chance of a bent skirt at high hp or detonation. Mahle is a pretty light piston, and the heavy Atomic 'Fat Rod' combined with a light Mahle piston makes a combination which weighs exactly the same as the stock combination, only it revs much better as this piston is lighter and has less friction than the stock setup. Another problem is that tolerances given for the pistons are for race engines, which run 100% load for much of the time, and thus has much more thermal expansion margin built into the piston clearances. I have done a temperature test on the Mahle Piston vs a stock unit, and couldn't see much difference on the micrometer, so clearances for street use can be taken down somewhat compared to recommendations, just how much depends on the size of your balls, as too tight will result in so called 'black death' where the piston 'nips' the cylinder during load, and a hone and new pistons is the result. Hope this is helpful

Totally agree F6, and though not exactly like stock sounding when idling, I can't hear any noise in the cabin, and only hear this when listening during idle, and when parking in our concrete parking garage. CP pistons on the other hand, they were noisy hot or cold, and could be heard clearly in the cabin, much like a good quality Diesel

I have done this, and yes the fuel tank follows the floor CLOSELY on the lhs of you car, so don't think welding (or drilling for that matter) there is a good idea. I fitted mine by dropping the fuel tank, and putting a decent bracket under the floor to hold the bolts, as the battery is quite heavy, and I'm sure you wouldn't want an 'acid missile' going through the cabin in case of an accident

My experience with CP at atomic tolerances is not good, noisy as hell :ifiusethisimafag: I have built a couple of my own engines using Atomic rods and Mahle pistons, paying very close attention to the build tolerances, and though not exactly like stock sounding, they are pretty close.

If you have the old 1st generation CAPA boost box, get rid of it and replace it with a proper Flash Tuner. I had the boost box, and though it worked kinda ok, it was never perfect, and will cause error codes if not set up 100% correct My 2c worth

I would think Ford would have plenty of them for sale. Gasket is a special thin steel gasket, with varying thickness to provide correct seal around bores. Plenty of very high hp car around with the standard gasket, so why change from a winning formula.

] I probably spent over $10k on this conversion, but that was getting almost everything brand new, except for the ZF trans. Being a pioneer aint cheap If the right donor car can be found, I would think this could be done a lot cheaper now, as ZF equipped cars are not as rare as nearly 2 years ago when I started looking into this.

Pollies are slowly turning this place into a police state These days it looks like they will fine you for the smallest things, irrespective of whether is dangerous or not

They will fit, but I believe the 'T' boxes are only stronger because of clutches having different material in them, so you may as well upgrade your own if it is otherwise in good condition.

Sounds like band or clutches have reached the end of their useful life. Be careful driving the car for too long like this, as it is quite common for the 2/4 band to lose the lining, and then run metal against metal, which can damage the drum they run on. Strengthening the 4 speed is mainly done by modifying the valvebody, which will make the band and clutch grab harder, which will also be the case in moderate city driving, making the car bit jerky, or certainly shifting quite hard. Hope this helps.

I have done this about 14 months ago, and it is a MAJOR job to do. BA never came witht he 6 speed auto, so looms and electronic modules have to be converted to BF, and cost will depend on what you can get the parts for, but expect it not to be cheap. Next you need to find someone who will actually take the job on if you can't do it yourself. Donor vehicle must be same type as your, I.e. sedan to sedan, ute to ute, and prteferably with same options (stereo and side airbags) as loom may not otherwise be correct.

Only saw this just now - Heroes indeed I, like Luke are on the fringe of the metro area, and see these gyus in action several times over summer, and the job they do is amazing. The guys lighting deliberate fires on the other hand I say, CUT THEIR F****NG HANDS OFF

You probably didn't remove the middle screw right under the windscreen, under the plastic cover. Didn't see that covered in the description I just read, and I have done a few of these.

I think it has been well documented that the 4 speed cannot be used for much over 290-300rwkw, at which point you are reaching the limit of the bands and clutches, even with a significantly modified box. An effect of the modifications are that the trans need to shift hard, making your car quite jerky to drive, but soft shifts and high rwkw/torque do not mix. The FPV ZF 6speed is the way to go if you need more than 300 rwkw and want an auto, but they are not easy to install in a BA as it was never configured for use in that model. I have done the conversion in mine, and after going through all matter of power levels in the 4 speed trans, I haven't looked back since making the conversion.

Spotted LeighD on Beufort Street in the city yesterday

Looks like the brake machanic has no idea Specs on std. BA and FPV master cylinder are IDENTICAL, and spongy brakes are a sign of trapped air and/or bad brake hoses, and has nothing to do with the size of the master cylinder.

You may find that as the turbo is ball bearing equipped, there is no oil pressure in the line, but only oil flow, as the bearings are lubricated by an irrigation type setup, and thus I don't think there will be any pressure. Just a thought, as I haven't tried this See my thread 'How to do it' for my new inline screen setup

Did it in situ, that is, cut the pipe, did the 'difficult side' in situ, and removed the turbo side and soldered this on the bench. Took about 1 hour to do all up.

Got the filter from Earls, it was around $66 + fittings which were around $20. Cut and silver soldered the pipe myself. The top pipe is the oil breather line to the intake, as I have a Nizpro kit on my car.