Ninka

And the Harmonic Balancer is quite small in diameter which also makes weight reductions less effective in terms of increased responsiveness, as inertia is quite small. Back in the day when running small 4 cyl engines, lightening the flywheel (large inertia due to diameter) would make a small but noticeable difference, but for our large 4L engines, the Harmonc Balancer is not going to make a noticeable difference. The statement that lighter is better stands, however it is just that the Balancer is not on it's own going to make a massive difference.

The "Crankshaft Pulley" is the Harmonic Balancer, and a good one will cost you quite a few hundred $$ so in most cases I have seen, it is not part of a "Pulley Kit"

Serves 'er right - notice how quiet she went

Well, let's just agree that the original question has been addressed. I already posted and placed a picture of the Repco pulleys elsewhere, so let's not make this an argument over balancers and their relative effect, trust me, IT WILL GO ON FOREVER and I really would rather stop here

Well, my impression was that we were talking about the PULLEYS and not the balancer. Altering the weight of the balancer can introduce a whole lot of other problems, especially on a straight six where the dampening of torsional crank stresses are critical, so though it may provide short term gain, just make sure it is suitable for the application, or you may end up with a broken crank. By the way, I added a billet flexplate for my last engine build, and its somewhat heavier than the flimsy Ford deal (I dont have the exact number), but engine came out more responsive on the other side of the build, so as a minumum, a couple of kilos makes negligable difference to responsiveness.

You need a puller to get it off, and yes it is a tight fit. Ford has a special tool for this, but it's not that great, but a normal puller should get it off.

Weelll, with 2 and bit years to go, you should have ample time to chew this decision over.... I am sure you will find many who have done one or the other of your options, so plenty to read.

Yes, though I did have to grind a little to allow the BF sump to slide far enough forward to have the back of the engine and the sump sit flush as required, as there was a little interference between the girdle and the aluminium sitting inside from the rear 'U' seal. I removed a little of the surplus aluminium to get it to sit properly, probably only 2-3 mm in an area where there was ample thickness to grind away a little.

2nd this - I have pictures posted somewhere under "How to do it", but bearings seize, and the heavy turbine wheel wants to keep on rotating, and just snaps right off the shaft.

How is it misleading?? Do Atomic state that it comes with the 698 engine? Will the engine not develop 698 kw without breaking?? There are LOTS of guys making high hp without a strengthened girdle, AND there are many other bits and pieces which can be recommended to increase longevity, but I guess the line has to be drawn somewhere, or the engines just become impossibly expensive, and guys will whine about the cost :banghead: You get what you pay for!

Yes they are. If you see my thread "My new engine build" you can see the 10 mm girdle on my engine as it was being built

I agree Steve, sensible decision

Makes sense as far as weather, but I would be out on Saturday.

I expect I will be there, let's just hope it doesn't pour down, Sunday is looking 50/50 according to BOM

Just remember, you are dealing with a forced induction engine in the XR6T, and the game is completely different in terms of cams.

BF Cams are better than BA units, and engine is more responsive. I did the switch a few years ago, as my car was 'born' a BA. Can't speak for top power though, as I never did a before/after test.

Easy - drink lots of water

I have sent you a PM and included link to Ralph Wiggum thread on how to remove and clean the screen/fitting.

I don't think this is a problem, as long as same brand and types of oils are used. This can be evidenced by the oil pressure of the engine as well, as it increases slightly and gradually the more higher viscosity is added to the mix.

Pressure test the system, it could be anywhere. The radiators are not too great on our cars either, and if you have the sightest corrosion, it doesn't take a lot to make a hole in the element, and can be damn hard to see too.

Purely sound of engine, as the quite short pistons I have used are very particular to oil viscosity, or they will rattle a little. I think like you, I will settle on a 40 as the best choice.

All of what has been advised apply, but it would also indicate blow-by as this means some of the combustion excapes past the pistons into the cranckcase, which adds to the polution load and also cause the oil to be burnt slightly on every combustion. Some years ago when I broke the ring lands on one of my pistons, the oil was pretty much destroyed within 1000k's (car still drove OK just a bit 'lumpy' at idle), pitch black and smelled awful.

Trial at the moment, just to see what is best to keep engine happy, but looks like it may end up at a 40 viscosity.

How about Swan Valley meet possibly Feral / Duckstein / Elmars etc. and then either a drive to Bullsbrook and Chittering Valley scenic drive, or Mundaring Weir to Kalamunda and beyond? Being a Saturday, we probably want to stay clear of the City

Looks good Steve, let's try to maybe stop/start somewhere for a beer or lunch or something, as this gives us an opportunity to have a chat.