Ninka

Well, make sure your mate checks his facts next time I have refurbished my pump, AND fitted an Atomic aluminium pulley to it, so it can be done.

Check the plug, and spray is with some good electrical cleaner - Sounds like you have lost the wire which controls upshift

Sorry, I should have clarified - Standard PBR BF rear calipers (the BA ones will not fit as the disc is bigger and as pointed out, also thicker)

Thanks for the confidence, but wouldn't that be over the top (as opposed to what else I have done ) Just the standard PBR jobbies on the rear, as I already have PBR Premiums on the front, and for street and drags they are fine.

Already have those mate

After considering for a while what to do to improve the Premium brakes on my 2002 BA(F), I have decided to fit DBA 5000 series 2 piece front rotors, and upgrade the rears to BF specification, which are larger than the BA brakes, and also ventilated. Expect to get the components next week, and will post pictures when I have fitted the kit

I have added +1 for me

Looks like wiring for a Chiptorque Xede. Should not be too hard to remove, as it splices into the wiring under the ECU, and those wires just need to be re-joined

Repeat after me - DRIVE SHAFT CV JOINT

Why do you think I do my own car

This happened to my 4 speed as well, before I converted to the ZF, just lost 3rd and 4th with no warning. Whan I pulled the trans apart, it was the C3 clutch which had fried the plates, so an easy and cheap repair. Only thing which will prevent this is higher pressure, as it is the clamping of the clutch which is not strong enough to hold the power.

I know of only one black F6 with bonnet scoop - Simon from Xtreme

What do you mean by 'will be on' IT ALREADY IS MATE Just wait till the house is built, and I'm sure the pressure will reach a whole different level Anyway, it's not the end of your life when it happens, BUT it should be your decision, and not somebody elses

I believe not. The 'T' has a slightly smaller floating gudgeon pin which the n/a does not, and the piston is different as well, crank is the same.

See above

So true if you are not careful Story of you life really

Same injectors, higher fuel pressure. Pressure regulator can be replaced with a Turbo unit in a n/a fuel rail, from memory they are about $120 or there abouts, and not difficult to change. Be careful that the fuel pump can keep up, as even the larger 'T' pump needs upgrading for serious power.

Hey Steve, Congratulations - So you finally did it Best wishes to you and Lisa

On the temperature sensing, I obviously disagree with you, and will only say this in respect of your comment - Why would the heat from cylinder 1 need to travel to the sensor when #6 is right next to it? This would assume there is a major difference between #1 and #6, something which will not the the case unless there is a major failure, in which case loss of water will be the least of your concerns Comment about your hose is fair enough, I guess sometime you can just be unlucky

Sorry mate, but unless you are on full throttle acceleration (and probably even then), aluminium will conduct heat quickly enough to detect this. Also you are not correct in respect of the PCM (ECU) measuring the water temperature to determine this, it actually has a sensor directly at the back of the head, and not in the water, so totally independent As far as your hose cracking, then this has nothing to do with how many k's your car has travelled, but depends on age, mechanical damage, general condition of cooling system etc. Like drive belts, hoses are worth checking every year or so, and replace if any signs of damage or ageing are found.

Rear Wheel Drive Nuff said

F6 and 'T' blocks are identical between cars of the same model I.e. BA, BF etc. BF has the same bolt pattern as the BA, so box will fit (I have a BF ZF transmission bolted up to my BA block. I have a brand new block sitting here which you can buy, PM me if you want it.

Possibly a faulty T-MAP sensor (is located under the throttle body in the plenum). I had mine die, and car would not run when boosting, and mixture was very rich. Changed the sensor, and she was all good as new again. If the engine light comes on, I would think you have a faulty sensor somewhere

I agree, it sounds like plugs need renewing or re-gapping Could possibly be over boosting as well, as the new turbo may 'surprise' the PCM, so disconnect the battery for 30 minutes to reset the PCM.

Errr, a Tornado is a UTE Tha swaybar question has been covered previously in some detail, so do a search and see what comes up