Ninka

She's doing quite well, just VERY quiet, and extremely well behaved, so she is as easy a dog as you could wish for. We are looking after friends dogs this weekend, and one of theirs require an eye on each finger, as he is into absolutely EVERYTHING, so a bit a a wake up call When he eats, you would think he was drinking, that's how fast it goes down, so a bit of a change from our relatively fussy German Shepherd, but a funny experience

Cheers guys, as they say, life goes on, but thank you for the sympathy. We have decided to get 2 new German Shepherd puppies around Christmas time, so that will be a good experience to get stuck in to the training and all that is involved in forming a couple of good family pets (read family members) As we still have 1 of our old girls left (10 1/2 years old) we are hoping to have some of her excellent temperament rub off, and maybe have a couple of good years before she passes away, so for a time we will have 3 GS dogs, something we have done before, so not too phased by the prospect. Anyhow, long story I know , but there you have it

Makes no difference to the short motor, as knock sensors are not included. Btw all blocks (BA and BF XR or F6) have provision for 2 knock sensors. Also it appears that the only major difference between a BA and BF/F6 block is the size of the oil filter thread. BA=Small for AFL1 oil filter BF=big for AFL 101 filter (short V8 filter) I have built engines with both types of blocks, so pretty certain this is accurate.

Glad I was able to help Steve There was a time there were I thought we might not have got you back on the road for a few days, as you are right, the damage was substantial. I haven't been all that active here for a couple of months, as work has seen me travel a bit, and in August we lost one of our German Shepherds to Leukemia, so cars wasn't the first thing I was thinking of Anyway, will keep an eye on proceedings a bit more closely now, so good to see many of you are still kicking about Cheers,

The whole point of this thread was to do a reasonably economical upgrade, and for 2 grand spent ($650 rear discs and calipers, $1350 for the 5000 series front discs and pads), the braking on my 'T' has never been better, very smooth, no shudder at all, and very confident stopping every time. Agree it is not for the die hard track fans, but for street use, they work perfectly

Don't know if you are aware, but on this forum M6_XR6T is not exactly considered a credible expert

Congrulations on the power I must say though, thet the power curve is not very smooth, and even though there can be a number of reasons for that, the most likely is that the boost is not well controlled. I had a similar looking curve when my car was first tuned, and I ended up having to change tuner to get this fixed, as the guys working on the car, were unable to prevent boost cycling, resulting in a 'peak and valley' type power graph.

If your car is under warranty, I would not use anything other than the 'liquid gold' specified and sold by Ford. Also the filling procedure is quite specific with regard to temperature etc, so unless you have a 100% understanding of how to do this, I wouldn't touch it

I have tried CP pistons, and heard a few cars with them, and if you like a mechanically quiet engine, well I wouldn't use them again My latest engine build use Atomic 'Fat Rods' and Mahle pistons, and though not quite stock sounding, it is pretty close. I have built a 2nd engine for R_UTE, also using Atomic rods and Mahle pistons, and the results are the same, pretty quiet. Pistons are rated just over 100 kw per cylinder (650 kw total, which is 860 hp) so that will suffice for most. Hope this helps

Nice video Obviously not in Australia - Notice how people pull over when they see someone coming up from behind Would never happen here

250 rwkw you should be fine, provided you get the shifts firmed up. This can be done by the tuner if you get a custom Edit tune. Should the box start slippijng, they are not expensive to rebuild, if you are only replacing worn bands and clutches.

Should be F6 rods. I think with only those mods, you will be safe at whatever you can get it to do. Your'e not going to break either the engine or the ZF easily, provided you get a good tune with the Edit.

Not really sure, as I do everything myself

There are several things which can cause vibration. You have 3 bushes holding the diff, all of which can be damaged and not easily detectable. My centre bush looked OK, but when I pulled the rear subframe out, I could see that the rubber had been crushed, and had split, basically providing no support. There are many components in the rear suspension which could cause noise and vibration, so a thourough inspection is required to determine what is causing the problem. On my car the bolt thread for the centre bush was OK.

Maybe that's why, because I was advised that slotted and cross drilled 5000 series discs ar no longer offered, only slotted, due to the potential problem of cracking around the drill holes.

Please don't get me started on the issue of hat colour DBA advertise different colours, and I wanted gold originally, then was told only red and blue were available, then after 3 weeks to end up with BLACK, what a bunch of wankers I bought the discs as they are claimed to have superior performance over 'standard' premiums, due to the disc being less likely to warp, as it is better able to move to absorb any distortion caused by heat. The 'Kangaroo Paw' type pillar pattern is also supposed to give superior performance over PBR discs, and I must say, it looks a lot more open, hopefully allowing more air through for cooling. I am using a high performance Ferrodo pad , good for road, but not a track pad. I don't have the number off hand, but if you are interested, I can get it for you.

I won't be able to make it, as I am travelling to the US on business on that Sunday

100%

As promised, hereby some photos of the 5000 Series PBR 'Premium' discs and new hubs. Plan to fit on the weekend

The scrivets are difficult to get out, so basically cut them with a Stanley knife to save time, or if you want to unscrew them, then use a very small screwdriver blade and a Phillips head screwdriver, hold the outside of the scrivet head, while turning the P.h. screw in the scrivet, without pushing, and try to get the screwdriver blade in between the main body and the head of the scrivet while turning it, and with a bit of luck you should be able to leverage it out. Fog lights have a connector which just disconnects, but getting the lights out of the bumper is by some pretty strong plastic clips, so takes a bit of work, but not too difficult.

With 45000 k's on the clock, I would consider changing and re-gapping your spark plugs, as this could be the cause. As long as you run unedited std boost, the factory 1.1 mm gap is ok, however, as you increase boost, you will have to change the gap progressively, down to as low as 0.7 mm if you run high boost (over 15 psi). Hope this helps

LUMO, It may be an improvement over stock, but I would be concerned about the airflow, with such a narrow bassage between the inlet and the back wall, especailly given that you have chosen to face the flange at a more acute angle than the stock setup. Will be interesting to see how it performs. Good initiative

About 270 - 280 rwkw, at which point you are starting to stretch your transmission, and also your weak BA conrods. You can go further than this, but you asked for 'safe' power levels Diff is not a problem, but driveshafts can fracture the CV's. Brakes are poor if you still have the standard brakes, but this only relates to speed, so if you do not plan to go fast anywhere, you'll be fine, if you want to use your new power, Premium brakes would be the minimum recommendation.

This is usually the first sign that either the front band or C3 clutch is struggling, so be gentle on it, or you will be repairing your box before too long. Wrong oil could cause this, so make sure ONLY Castrol TQ95 is used.

Yeah, no problem, BUT we have just had a cruise, so I'm not going to be in for at least another 4-6 weeks