hingston

Sharkey- Sorry to break the news you should have pressed harder. I just bought 4 17" F1's including aligment for $950. Both Bob Jane and Beaurepairs would do it for the same price. They are about the same as the std in the dry but great in the wet.

I wonder if anyone has heard of driving to the conditions ?? I had my edit fitted some time ago and in the rain on tram tracks the stratergy is to gently breathe on the accelerator when you want to take off. Any responsible upgrade needs to be balanced in this case by not only a perfomance upgrade but also tyres and probably brakes. The more you tune these cars the finer detail you need to pay attention to these items. 240rwkw on standard tyres , 3/4 worn are never going to even remotely grip in the wet and just get by in the dry.

I have the Herrod edit box and mine does the same on std and on the 10psi tune. I took it into Rob and he made an adjustment to the pgm but it still hasn't made any difference. To be fair on Rob I havent folllowed up with him for a couple of months so I don't know if their is a later fix ??

Count me in as well.

Well while I am using optimax (in Melb) it seems ok. The Car has never been on the dyno ever. It was truly plug an go go go !!! Mind you the other day I thought it was down a bit on power that's why I tried the Ulitmate and noticed it got worse. My doubts where disapated when I had a mate in car and he said it was great as ususal. It was just me getting used to the power level. I am trying desperately not to hop on the GIVE ME MORE POWER roundabout, where there is alway just one more mod. Might give the Mobil a go. But maybe the Optimax is the sweet spot for the standard stealth 10psi map in my car.

I have had the Herrod unit for a couple of months now and leave it on the 10psi map all the time. The auto is holding up fine (touch wood). No regapping plugs fiddling with the car it ran fine from day 1. I run Optimax in the car exclusivley. However a couple of weeks ago I could not get Optimax and used BP Ulimate. I then started to have trouble on WOT at high revs and boost. - Back to the optimax - all ok again. My uneducated guess is that on the 10psi map the injectors are max'ed out and you need everything from your fuel to keep it under control. At $1300 you don't get much to hold in you hand but you try getting an extra 50 od RWKW out of anything else and you will be paying 4 times the amount. Besides SWMBO cant see a thing on the car.

micksta, Want to buy a bridge If something goes really wrong, you will be paying for it out of your back pocket, because Ford will reject the claim. If you must go down this line - get it writing, after all how much is the salesmans word worth.

I agree, Why buy a turbo and quible about the fuel consumption. If you have to think about the fuel consumption every time you hit the accelerator, then buy something else. Economy is inversly proportional to fun. I have a lot of fun, some months my fuelcard account shows 20l/100km Forget about the economy and enjoy your car.

you disconnect it....it plugs in the point near your fusebox under the steering wheel... plug it in... wait about 5 min and unplug it. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> So tell me why a whole bunch of you aren't getting together and chipping in for one between you all. that's what I'd be doing. Why bye one for yourself when you can use the same thing for more than one car.......???????????? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> That would be great but it is keyed to VIN of the car. My understanding is that on first connection the factory progam is downloaded into the edit box and the selected program uploaded. When I got my stealth from Rob I asked him what happens if you leave the 10psi map loaded and the dealer flashes the ECU. He siad you loose the 10psi map. ie the edit box knows your car (VIN) and knows that the 10psi map is loaded. When you reconnect your edit box it downloads the new version of factory program into the 10psi slot. Recomendation - ALWAYS load the factorty settings beofre letting a fordtech near it. I also read somewhere else that you can only change VIN 5 times before it needs to back to the US.

I picked up my Herrod Stealth unit on a rainy day. Loaded the 10psi map and on the way home I could resist, at 70 km/hr entering on the freeway ramp, stabbed the throttle, wheelspin - traction control gave up and tunned itself off boost gauge pegged past 10psi and much more turbo noise, traction gained and then sit back and hold on. WOW !! By the way turning the engine off and on again resets traction control. With dry roads it was like driving another car, with a mate we tried the different settings. Once you have used the 10psi setting the factory setting is quite tame, 8psi is good 10psi is fun! He has a modded SS ute and to quote him - the SS has no where near the pull. My car has always made good power. I drove it hard from the begining and always run Optimax. I had no problems with the 10 psi map and don't see any reason to use anything else. Definatley eats WRX and HSV for breakfast, don't even bother with the SS's anymore. To answer Steve, the turbo noise is considerably louder, but thank god the bov doesn't sound like a ricey rex. The only problem and not a bad problem to have is that I used to get about 6 seconds of fun (0-100) now I get much less time to enjoy it.....

spell checker --- It that something the Charmed ones could use ??

I steel thunk a speil chucker wood be goood.

mine aslo has been around 6 psi, some times you can notice pulsing on a hot day, but this is normal.

I fitted a boost gauge to my T. It is a auto, I routed the hose thru the grommet in the firewall (warning do not drill your firewall, from memory it comprimises your adr compliance) then directly above the hole is the vacum line to the brakes (a rubber hose approx 16mm OD). I cut this line and put my t-piece there. Making sure all joints are well sealed (ie no vacum = no brakes). Although it is a vacum line it does go into positve pressue when the turbo is working.

Great informaative day. If you missed today, don't mix the next one. Good to see a professional orginisation take a proactive intrest in customers, with out high pressure sales. Many thanks to the crew from APS. Now to convince the wife !!!

Installed mine a couple of Days ago (10psi auto) Installation was easy less than 3/4 hour from start to finnish. Instructions clear and consice. However a little trick was to add some more curve to the end of the pressure tube and it slid down thru the dash on the first try. Also when the tube had made it down I needed to slightly redirect it so it was not behind the Traction control switch loom. The color match is good, but there is a couple of stightly anoying impefections in the paintjob at are only visible from outside the car. It looks "factory", as I wan'ted it to. On idle the point sits at 5:30 o'clock position. Stick the boot in and it whips around to about 6psi boost. Moderate accelleration to about 2psi and the peakhour crawl it stays in the vacum area. The gauge works as expected with no extra noise. However a stop at about the 7 o'clock position would be good. The bigest problem with this gauge when you first fit it is that you spend too much time looking at it, than looking at the road. Epecially when you are looking for max boost reading in seconds you are well into the flashing blue light territory. Also many thanks to "YCL" for arranging the bulk buy and dispatch.

Thanks. Count me in XRPhantom. cdm arranged the last lot and they had a mix of freifgted and pickup, I rang gaugeworks the other day and they do take credit card payment.

Is anyone going to arrange another bulk purchase. I am interested in a 10psi (auto).

$827 Novated Lease - Melb. RACV

Sorry for the delay in posting the pict, early Oct Build - engine bay.

Shop around - there are definatley deals around. I paid base retail for my T but got Leather, Premium, Sound Reversing sensors ... ect thown in and delivery in a week. It had been delivered to the dealership 2 days prior and the dealership sales where down. The dealership, cleared the stock, got the sale and I got a good deal. The ulitmate result in negotiation - Win/Win. ALWAYS do the deal in the last week in the month you will consitantly get a better price. However be prepared to comitt because a genuine end of month deal won't last. Also I never cloud the deal with a tradein. They give you nothing and use the trade in to hide profit margin. To do do this you will need to be prepared and have done all your reseach before you walk through the dealership door. You'll also gian a slight edge if you do it the first time through the door.

I took delivery of my Red XR6T on Saturday - OCT 03 build complete with a shiny engine bay. - Judging by some of these posts I must have been lucky 1 week delivery.