hypnodoc

$58700 on road in July 03, for T with leather, auto, momo wheel and gearstick, mats, tint, scuff plates, h/light & bonnett protectors. Do 7000klm offered $49000 for trade on GT-P at full retail. Answer keep T and buy GT-P anyway. Insurance with SGIO for T $645, for GT-P $1450. 45 yo good driving history (except for those blo#dy multinovas)

Bought the entire XR8 assembly from Lynford motors (minus filter pod) for $210 + BMC filter Perth exhaust centre $185, wiil have it all fitted on Monday with injectors etc then post the difference between this set up and 56MAINLINES mod on the site. I'm waiting to see if the T retains that wonderful induction sound you get when you chop the standard airbox. Very exy experimentation, very addictive car . The GT-P will remain bog standard, well maybe

Airflow capability of standard filter becomes appalingly apparent when you blow through the filter then try it with a K&N. Alot more dollars but a lot less restriction fuel + AIR = power.

XR8 K&N Filter from repco $215 or BMC filter $185

Hi KTford. I tried that, just seems to make them more dull than they are or it scrambles their minds so they can't set up the dyno properly. I need to hypnotise myself to get over all the stress this bloody car has caused. I lived in Brissy for 10 years, at least chiptorque and Motsons know what they are doing. Bought an EB Xr6 from Southsides, your right, they are good

A coppers a coppers a copper. You only have to read the latest Motor magazine to see what the SA govt let slip out regarding what percentage of accidents are REALLY CAUSED BY SPEED. Theres a lot of good cops out there just trying to do a good job, it's a pity that the few with the MONGREL NAZI ATTITUDE spoil it for the majority of good ones. I remember getting pulled up years ago in a VL turbo in QLD for 210 on a quiet stretch of road. After the officer (who was alone) berated me, I looked at him with a blank expression and asked "Is it really that important". He looked at me a little shocked then said "Yes!, now on your way and keep the speed down. I think a lot of it comes down to attitude, ours and theirs. But sadly, lately its all about revenue I think.

In Perth Lynford motors at Osborne Park are Xcellent

My dealer told me that the series 2 will be around sept 04, and that the 280kW job will not be FPV but an upgrade option, considering the prem brakes etc, etc, you can bet the price will also upgrade by $6 -7000. As for the new 260kW SS Commodore. My T with a presently incorrectly tuned stage 1 UNICHIP whooped one last Sunday down the freeway. I know he was trying because he stayed (slowly fading) in the rear view mirror to about 220 (irresponsible I know, but 11.30pm on a clear long straight). Pity about the speed limiter, mine starts to miss at about 240kph. Anyway if FPV don't do something pretty quickly, those Monaros will embarass them again at the next Bathurst 24hour

Hi 56MAINLINE. I found a 105mm rubber coupling for the airbox mod. I love the extra induction noise, saw the factory XR8 airfilter system adaption on the site today and ordered it. If anyones interesred in the adapted airbox complete with 4 week old K&N filter for $150 email me at hypnot@iprimus.com.au

APS Phase one nothing but expensive drama for me

ducatijb. I totally agree with you. I lost 30 - 40kW and 2 nights sleep and changed a $600 centre muffler until a clown who shall remain nameless rang me three days after a dyno run to tell me that their dyno computer had been playing up. That same night I read a multi-dyno test done in WA on a Commodore (sorry to swear) ute, in Perth Street Machine. 10 different dynos = 10 different readings up to 100 kW difference, and guess what my EX TUNER had the lowest readings of them all. IN MY OPINION DYNOS ARE CRAP :ermm: . The most powerful car is the one who makes it to the end of the line first. No more $50 for such hard revving misinformation for this little duck. Although one thing all of this did was make me find a tuner in the west who is actually interested and even knows what ther'yre doing. :banghead: :banghead:

:banghead: Your car your choice. Me thinks you would be better off putting PWR intercooler in, with an oil cooler between the intercooler and radiator. From what I've heard the standard intercooler is made in NZ and isn't as susceptable to heat soak etc as some would have us believe. I've run my car real hard on 40 deg plus days in WA and all I get is the temp needle swings a little over half way. Someone also said that the standard flow restriction on the standard intercooler is 4.5lbs, mine tested at a smidgen over 2lb. My final analysis is that the Ts handle heat better than some people think. If you really are that worried buy an intercooler spray system from CAPA then any pending heat soak issues will be stopped before they start. It appears that the big thing with these babies is feeding them enough fuel by replacing the injectors if your chasing more power. Over boosting turbo pressure without fuel delivery capability = detonation = burned pistons. Also tested the standard fuel pump, it makes 107p.s.I. so I can't figure out why so many people are on about expensive bigger fuel pumps and rising rate regulators etc etc. In the words of a Ford Tech. Ford kept the injector size limited to keep power gains limited. All the mods come to nothing without being able to feed the car enough fuel. Go APS stage one, bigger injectors (at least 450cc capability each, cost approx $1000 fitted) and a trans cooler if the cars an auto. Much less dough, much more grunt. If you don't want more than 350 kW you don't need the intercooler. :banghead:

:banghead:. I had a mild flaring problem, fitted a trans cooler and filled the box with Redline ATF (Redline is about $300 with flush etc), bloody pricey but bloody good. Has made the box lock up much quicker and smoother. :banghead:

Valve springs, valve springs, valve springs, valve springs, injectors, injectors, injectors, intercooler, intercooler, intercooler, fuelpump, fuelpump, fuelpump,. Ain't no one getting that horsepower without attending to these pricey little issues :banghead:

:banghead: Once you read the shear and crack strengths of REDLINE and then try it, you'll never contemplate anything else, especially considering the temperatures a T will generate in summer. Costs a hell of a lot more, but could save you a fortune $200 for engine, $300 for trans, but in the end it could save you plenty. Oil change recommended every 20,000 klm.

Hi ISPY_STI. So you are in the far west, I have had a bit of time in my T now and have learned the expensive way what to do and what not to do with these cars in WA. :banghead: If your looking for an excellent dealer and want to know who can lift the performance PROPERLY. :banghead: email me hypnot@iprimus.com.au

I took my T in for a new diff at the dealer and of course being in WA they ordered (or received) the wrong diff centre, I had the DBA drilled and slotted golds and the Ford spacer kit fitted to the front of the car at the same time, suprise suprise the shudder is gone. Here is my conclusion. I was doing 230 kph a few weeks ago and a fast stop on standard brakes was completely out of the question, real wing and prayer stuff. The DBAs front only on standard pads are more progressive and better around town. A repeat of the 230kph stunt yesterday was still winging it, but there was certainly a noticable improvement and I didn't have to pray. Just ordered a set for the rear from Hoppers. When these are fitted next Monday I'll throw in some Bendix ultimates and see how much more improvement is available. I got so pis#*&%ed trying to make kW with this car that I ordered a GT-P. Now I'm gonna keep both heres what happened in the far west. Car on dyno standard 237kW at motor Car APS Unichip 298kW at motor. Utilise 56mainline brilliant cold air xr8 induction snorkell + K&N filter. Chop out centre muffler add straight straight throughs. Replace straight throughs with 2.5in Mandrell bent stainless centre muffler. Go back to dyno after feeling power loss, now only 268kW disgusting measly kWs at engine :banghead: REMEDY. Swear and curse, go home, kick the cat, ignor the wife, lose too much sleep, ponder, ponder, ponder, have a brilliant idea = ring Ford dealer and order GT-P, now have product delay for Black GT. New (in the meantime) idea, don't give up on the turbo. Talk to APS, get bigger injectors and fuel pump then re-tune Unichip somewhere where they seem to have more customer interest. Final analysis, as my better half said (quote) Christ you're a Doctor and here you are carrying on like a bloody teenager all over a car, just get it fixed or get rid of it. All I could do was smile sheepishly and mutter something about secret mens business. I think I'm gonna need some good earplugs when she see's the purchase order for the GT-P and the next VISA statement. I'll advise of kW results when it's done next Tuesday. :banghead:

:( Welcome to the world of the CLAYTONS performance vehicle. I'm still wondering who copped the sling at motor magazine. My T cost me just over 60 grand on the road, I'm so impressed that at 7000klm I'm copping a $12300 to get rid of the thing. To Ford I say :banghead: .I've got a GT-P on order, I hope instead of just building it, that they actually put some true R&D into this one. Then again perhaps some of us just end up with the proverbial Monday Car

Hi Ricksan, seems to be standard Ford patter, mines booked in today. I bought a set of drilled/slotted DBAs from Hopper Stoppers in Vic $320 it seems to me that this is the only way the issue will be properly fixed. If you leave it up to Ford they will fill you with excuses then eat your lunch

:lol: SIXFAN. My T drank 2 litres in the first 3000klm. I put some Red Line in it and the problem went away. Costs plenty, but "Oils ain't Oils"

AZTEC if ya gotta do it go for the Chiptorque product, you'll have to go to the Gold Coast but at least you'll get what you are promised from Lachlan

Hi Aztec. My T is a July build. I chopped out the centre muffler fitted a K & N and did the XR8 airbox mod and lost 20kW. Put a mandrel bent twin 2.5 inch stainless centre muffler back in and got only 10kW back again. Mate if it ain't broke don't fix it, they also sound like a Harvard bomber at high altitude without the muffler, and the FORD info Iv'e read says the standard system and standard cat will happily flow 350kW, just as the standard fuel pump will push 100 P.S.I so a lot of these bolt on bits are really just an un-neccesary expense unless you want 400kW. Hmmmm now theres something to ponder

Hi Al Bundy. I fittet a stage 1 Unichip to my car and I don't measure my economy, but I can say that the Klm to empty (after filling the car to the top) in standard form used to give between 510 - 540, after fitting the UNICHIP it tells stories of anywhere between 408 (lowest) and 504 (highest) All the UNICHIP did for me was create lots of drama for very little gain I'm not saying the product is bad (perhaps it's the installer, (they don't seem very intetrested after they've got your $2000) Mate it all frustrated me enough to get rid of the car at 7000 klm. I would say if your going to install anything check out Lachlan Riddel at Chiptorque. I used him to make a VL Turbo go real quick in the early 90s. What I got was good service, good advice, a fair price and a car that went like hell. BE VERY CAREFUL, THERE SEEMS TO BE A LOT OF EXPENSIVE FALSE PROMISES OUT THERE.

B) I pick mine up Thurs 18th, Black, my T was nothing but an expensive Love the cars but I pulled a lemon that may never taste sweet. Even found the broken bakerlite oil filler cap (again) yesterday. Only car I've ever owned that had 1)new diff. 2)new brake rotors. 3)doubtful APS chip. 4)constant lifter rattle on cold start. 5)weird thumping sounds in the boot on auto change down. 6)a belly full of bakerlite. 7) front tyre seperation at 2000ks. And god knows what else. Question: How do you tear up $10,000 and become an insomniac? Answer: Buy an XR6 Turbo! To those who designed my lemon I say Without the release of the GT-P I would hve had to go Expensive Daewoo or (even worse) European. Oh the price we pay to remain a loyal FORD fanatic. Hopr all the rest of you get a better car than the dog they sold me.

Hoppers Stoppers are doing the Gold slotted drilled DBAs for $150 each inc GST. You can call them on 03 97486950, they are nice people and they are totally aware of this shudder problem and more than happy to discuss it. Fair and honest advice, good service, and no 1000% mark ups. My car needs a new diff next Thurs before it turns into a GT-P and the dealer said to order them in and they'll fit them with new pads for nicks.