Scrotus

Thanks for the heads up. Checking the center bearing and it is moving all over the joint, clunking around. Can anyone suggest aftermarket bearing or just best to go genuine?

I heard on here that the boot was to high up so the shock cuts through - this was a post from few years back so perhaps just a bad batch. Hrm, the cluck is from the back left , sounds right at the wheel. I've had the diff bushes done 5 years ago the visually look ok - center bearing is original with 220K, might have to check that out before changing the CVs

The BF has started making a clunk at low speed with more than 1/4 pedal down. I've checked the wheel bearing (which is only a year old) and seems fine. Checked the CV/Shaft no leaks or damage. It does however move horizontally about 1/4 of an inch either way. The Right however has zero movement. I think the movement seems fine though given there is a sound perhaps not. Also strange how one has no movement and the other a fair bit. I'm going to change the Drive shaft on spec - but having trouble finding a decent quality aftermarket one. The best choice so far seems maybe a Repco one as they have the 2 year warranty on CV / 5 Year on shaft. Though another post on here did mention that the boots are to high up and wear out from the shock. Any advice on which drive shafts to order?

Mine does not come off like this, he seems to have enough clearance underneath. Spent 2 hours just trying to get this clip off. I give up. Wreckers $40 used pump it ended up being.

That may help. It's off BF.

If anyone has removed the circlip with success can you please let me know how to? Been at this clip for over an hour. Tried scribe, screwdrivers, G-clamping, nothing will move it and there is no holes - its just a piece of metal.

Turns out changing the seal is fairly straight forward as I though, though did take 10 hours.

Is yours leaking from where the driveshaft connects into the left side? Mine is leaking from that area from the right driveshaft. I ordered a new seal but a bit unsure how much needs to be removed to get to this. I'm assuming, the wheel, hub, brakes ect all comes off and then by the looks of it there is a bracket locking the driveshaft in place. After undoing that bracket the driveshaft should then be able to be unscrewed?

wood + hammer worked well.

Yes fill plug is where you mentioned and you turn it off before checking, only run the car before jacking it to get the transmission warm. Also is states in the procedure if its low top it up and take it for a drive to get it warm again (but dont go past 2,500RPM) it says to drive about 4-5km. Then repeat the procedure for checking oil and refill if needed.

Removed the pads today the passenger side was fine, but on the driers side one of the bolts was ridiculous to remove. After taking the caliper off the side at which the bolt wouldnt budge I found one of the two pistons was sized. I dont see how the bolt would effect the piston, maybe the bolt has nothing to do with piston seizing. I never noticed any braking issues when driving, but now the thing just wont move. Even tried a hyd jack to force the piston back and that didnt work. Is it safe to spray some oil/lube around the piston. Its looking like I need a new caliper so would be great if anyone has any ideas to get the piston out.

To check oil select gears in this order after the trans is warm to the touch. R,D,S-2,D,R,P (leave in each gear for 3 sec) Remove fill plug. Fluid should be clear and should be level with the bottom of the fill hole.

I went to the shop after work so they must of given me further discount, I'm in the military. I got a few parts that day and thought they where a reasonable amount cheaper but assumed they just gave me trade.

17.5 for 1lt. The ford oil is Mercon SP XT-6 QSP or also known as Shell ATF M 1375.4

well im going to stick with genuine oil only because its the same price as the transmax z (trade price). Im still after a source where I can get the steal sump - please anyone?

I have read the fill process and can see if its not followed you will underfill the gearbox. F6, do you use Castrol or Penrite? Im keen to use Castrol over Pentrite because of the fact that so many people on here use the castrol and that its already used in merc ZF's - Although Im unsure if there is any difference between the ZF on the Ford's and the Merc. Can anyone confirm if they are different? Does anyone have a source where I can get the aftermarket oil sump and bolts please?

So you didnt completly train the orginal zf shell oil - only did the service fill? The two oils mixing shouldnt matter because they are the same specs? I need to get the aftermarket pan because Ive still got the plastic sump which is $260 from ford with filter (unable to just buy filter)

Im about to service the ZF 6speed and I found penrite have an oil which can be used (Automatic Transmission (ZF 6HP26) SIN ATF) Refering to http://www.penriteoil.com.au/oil_selector.php and http://www.penriteoil.com.au/tech_pdfs/147%20ATF%20APPLICATIONS%20UPDATE%202009.pdf. Im not sure to 100% trust this as they say fill capacity is 4ltrs on there site - however ford manual says 4.7lts for service fill or 9lts for dry transmission. Im having a bit of trouble finding where castrol says its ok to use Transmax Z - even rang the tech guy and said no you cant use this.... Im confused because dont other cars run ZF transmissions and use Transmax Z from stock - such as mercedes? Also, where do they sell the aftermarket steal pan sumps and longer bolts?

Yeah, that makes sense. Ill put in that missing bolt, actually 2 missing bolts. I remember leaving them out because it was a pain to put in and was over it (after doing a turbo removal and install).

This was my first thought, because it does sound like the heat shield rattling and the shield is missing the small bolt. Though it doesnt explain why it would go away when the car is hot? The car is auto, the pedal is the accelerator.

Yeah I always use the manual for important stuff like a gearbox, thanks for the soft copy - I only had a photocopy. Im going to do a full flush and put in the TransZ. F6_Tornado - What is the best Pan to use? Where do you get the metal ones with the drain plug. and The plastic Pans have a drain plug The steel pans used by Ford in Australia dont have a drain plug. So which is standard the plastic or the steal? Do they come with plastic and ford changes them on the service. The car has 88,000km transmission never been serviced.

I ve noticed that when the car is cold it makes a sound which sounds like a rattle. It only happens when you have the foot on the pedal, and happens really bad when you flog it, even after 10 minutes of driving. I dont normally flog it when its cold, only did it to check if the noise would get worse. After 15 minutes the noise is completely gone, and as the car gets warmer the noise gets less. Has anyone experienced this before? I dont think its the lifters, because it sounds different - however this is the only idea I have. The noise almost sounds like somethings fluttering, rattling / tapping about. im running 10w/40 nylon oil. Just changed the oil.

all depends what your after, but I can assure you the turbo is great fun and never gets old! Well not after a year anyway. However, its a downfall getting the turbo because you will no doubt end up "modding it" - its hard not too. Though the upside to that is its cheap to mod, however my main concern is blowing the ZF, I hope its tough. BTW - I simply booked a flight to melbourne, flew down went to the auction the next day and brought the car - drove back to adelaide. Took 3 days off work. You can view all the cars online, with photos and pickles has damage reports on them, ie where scratches are. However, mawfowles or whatever they are called seem to have more cars. Arh and to add, if you going to get the turbo then the PBR brakes are a must have.

You should check out the auctions, sydney has the cheapest. I picked up a 07 BFII turbo with PBR, exellent condition (almost mint, apart from under the front bumper) for 21,250. that was 12 months ago. Had 65,000km. It was a ex hwy police. Other ex hwy police xr6t went for 19k that day. you should be able to get a 08 xr6t with PRB for 20k easy at the auctions now, government gets rid of there cars in jun/jul. also, they come with transferable warranty 100,000km / 3 year. unless you start modding it - which you no doubt will!