turbocorty

The external controller is responsible for the CAN bus communications. The car pc does not have CAN bus capability built in thus it must be external. The CAN contoller must be active as soon as the ignition key is turned - the car pc would take too long to come online. This plus more resons... Cheers

Hi, Mr Bean thanks for the info. Regarding your coments on Factory nav, telephone inputs ect.. this is not part of the HVAC controller. It will be the responsibility of the owner to pick a replacement headunit that has all the features and options to cover what they need. In terms of the BUS communications, I have already tested a circuit on my dodgy test bench!! Herk's thread shows exactly what we will need for the carputer option. (A nice HVAC user graphic with simple rs232 command attached to each button press. My external controller will handle the rest). Unfortunatly I cannot remember how to write s/w for PC applications so someone else will need to do that!! (+ I don't have the time to re-learn) I am hoping that the final product will be compatible with both the high and low series HVAC's with the option to work with either a stand alone HVAC control panel (Supplied in the kit) or via the RS232 command sent via the carputer. The HVAC controller will be directly on the 500k BUS with all the Smarts built into the S/W to keep it out of trouble - especially when ford service tries to connect the diagnostic tool! Anyway..so far we need to get alot more positive feedback that such a product is wanted out there, otherwise it wont be worth the effort. Cheers

hi austcro, If you can write the HVAC application (Graphics ans serial command for XP) I can make the can bus interface to control the system. This will allow people with the carputer to have a very nice intergrated system with touch screen HVAC controls. PM me if you are interested. Cheers

I would say around $350 - $400... It just depends on how we end up doing the HVAC button assembly!

Thanks B-phoon, I think its about time we give people the option to piss off the complete ICC!! What do you think? G

http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=40681 please read the link above and respond if interested. Regards, g

Hi Guy's I am looking for what interest there is out there for a replacement HVAC controller that replaces the the one intergrated in the ICC? Yes, This means you can remove and turf out all the stuff at the back of the icc and add whatever you want.( Aftermarket Headunits, screens, carputer whatever ). At this stage there are two or three options regarding the operation of the new HVAC system. option 1. You remove and cut the ICC plastic leaving just the vents and create a custom plastic piece to house the new entertainment system below it. - I will design a seperate HVAC control panel with built in display that can be mounted anywhere. option 2. You cut the middle section of your ICC Starting from under the Vents all the way to just under the CD slot, and I will create a new PCB to take advantage of the factory HVAC buttons Option 3. People with carputer, We will need a HVAC screen designed as a SW addon with RS232 commands comming out into my interface that will control the HVACI. This means your HVAC becoes touchscreen. I have spent a little time verifying the concept on my bench and can confirm that it is possible, the only thing stopping me now is knowing if people out there are interested so that I dont waist my time. I for one think that its a good option for people with the LOW series ICC to have the option to updrade to whatever they like without loosing the HVAC / Door Lock / Interior light options. Please feel free to bring up any thoughts / fears you may have. Cheers, G

Deaks, I respect your opinion! Yes, I was at calder in that messed up looking thing. Ended up running an 11.4 ...Next time will be heading for 10nzzz ...Shill go or shill blow, either way I'm happy! Cheers

Hi Habib, I only took the car to calder once and had three runs. 1st - 13.2 2nd - 13.5 Wheelspin 3rd - 13.8 Wheelspin Not doubt it is hard to repeat a perfect takeoff with a manual, but once you master it, it should be faster than an auto due to the lower losses in the drive train. Time lost between gear changes is also negligable if you practice! I believe a manual car will alway be faster if traction is not an issue. I fully agree that a 350kw auto will go down the quarter faster than a manual due to the difficulty in transmitting the power to the ground during takeoff - If both cars are rolling say at 80kl/h any they go for it, I still say the manual would pull away - slightly! Great cars, both auto and manual G

The 60ft was around 1.9sec...The timeslip is posted somewhere on this site. Most of the people who say your full of crap have never driven a Typhoon..right? All typhoons have the potential to run a simmilar 13.2..It just takes practice with the takeoff and quick gear changes. g

My 13.2 was done on the standard 18's..sp9000?? With ET streets, I predicted a flat 13 or even a 12.9999999 Unfortunatly, never hadthe chance to prove it! g

That is a great time and also what I expected for an auto typhoon when driven by someone that likes to thrash. I don't want to start a manual vs auto argument again, but the manual still seem's to be faster down the quarter (on perfect run that are quite hard to repeat!). Geat car....I want another one!

Sounds real to me! My BA F6 did a 13.2 at Calder @105mph. This should do the same! Good stuff.

"13.2.. Nice one! What fuel were u using, what was the temp, What rubber u using, and how did u launch the car, did u slowly feed into clutch or just drop it? Cheers! " Hi Bangem001, The car was totally stock including tyres at full pressure. Normal BP Unleaded not preminum. Good takeoff was via riding the clutch to avoid wheelspin and very quick gear changes. Small burnout only to warm up the tyres. cheers Oh, Temp that night was about 14Deg C

Hi Redline, Interface is $90.00 Regards, g

Hi Saleen, Everything is possible but it gets a little complicated if you still have the the factory system as the controls are already taken up..Volume, Mode, ect.. The only button you can use to do something is seek when in Aux mode. Cheers

Hi Gents, Just to let you know that if you change/add another headunit to your BA, I can make you an interface to allow your steering controls to operate the new unit. It is done in a way that still allows you to control your overspeed alarm. So far I can do it for... Blaupunkt Pioneer Clarion JVC Alpine Kenwood If I dont have your deck listed, I will still get it done but it takes a little longer. Let me know if you are interested. Cheers, G

Hi, Being a company car, I belted the shiet out of my F6 from the moment they gave me the keys. The result was a 224 Kw run on the dyno and 13.2 second 1/4 mile. The bloody thing loved every minute of it up until I gave it back. If I had paid for it out of my pocket...I would have waited for 100k's to clock over. IMO..If the engine is a dud, running it properly is not going to help it. Just drive the car anyway you like..It cannot be worse than what I did to mine. Enjoy your ride you lucky you. g

I am doing a few things at once. 1st, I am now the Blaupunkt sales agent for Victoria and Tasmania. 2nd, I develop customer specific electronic circuits 3rd, I develop interfaces for the automotive audio industry. Eg I have just completed a steering wheel remote control adapter to allow the BA controls to work with any aftermarket head unit whilst retaining the overspeed function. I have many other liitle things in the pipeline that I can share with you guy's if you are interested. I can only wish I make enough cash to purchase another Phoon!!! Its my 2nd day without her

Hi Gents, Today will be the last day I drive the all mighty Typhoon I made a difficult decision to quit my job and start my own company. I will continue to support this forum as the BA is a car Ford finally got right!! Long live the phoon... Anyone thinking of buying one, I would say go for it! I thashed this car from day one and have had no problems. If a car can survive my beating, it can survive anything. My SS had aready gone through a pressure plate and slave cylinder by this time! Anyway, a very sad day for me! See Yah.

The 13.2 is for real!! Cheers

Hi, I am thinking of installing this monster into the F6 with an 18inch sub. What do I do? The wieght of all this extra stuff is going to reduce my tyre burning abillity

hI nAG3, Well Done, I have beaten VZ SS Sedans and utes no problem.(All on private drag strips!) ..Just make sure your takeoff is controlled with no wheelspin and you will pull away in second. Enjoy your ride! G

I had the same problem with mine. At around 3000k's it started making loud metal clunking noises so I took it to ford. They offered to replace the diff that week, instead I told them that I will live with it up until the next service at 15000k's. I was also not convinced it was the diff because the noise appeared overnight. Anyway, to cut a long story short, I continued to drive the car HARD until the noise went away!! I still don't know exactly what it was but the diff is fine. Could be a suspension rubber or something??

Theo F6 The take off you did in the video will result in a good 1/4 time no doubt!! It will take a little practice to determine how much traction the track has. If you have never run on a track before, all I can say is that, the track has at least 50% more grip until you break traction. Once you break traction...it seems like it has 50% less than your local street@@?? Anyway, You ride the clutch very well, this will help in your 1/4 mile runs for sure. Good luck, and help me prove my 13.2ET as a reality. Cheers