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bunna, I was under the impression that the rear tray (style side box) sits directly on the chaises rails? I am going to try and get it up on the hoist this week and have another good look. The tray is going to come off soon to do fuel pump and also a bunch of rear suspension work. Will need to do something to address the floor panels also. U bolts I checked and tightened not long ago. I have fixed a few noises so far but this rattle is driving me nuts Cheers

I have a rattle under my car somewhere that I can not find. It appears to be worse when it is hot, but that could just be me It sounds like a loose bracket that is attached to the body somewhere and rattles only when going over bumps in the road (sharp bumps). I thought it was the exhaust hitting the body somewhere, but if move it around via tail pipes I can not hear it hit anywhere. Also the heat shields around cat section have been removed. Anyone else had a similar issues with their BA or BF ute? This is defiantly not that tray line, but more a metal on metal clunk and it can be pretty loud at times. Cheers.

Melbourne has to be in the top 5 worst cities on earth when it comes to weather. 6 weeks ago you get his by a heat wave and now you get flooded out and hammered with hail stones. Phaark that for a joke

Yea that's the one

Sorry about threat hijack I messaged one of the ebay sellers who currently sells these in 19" and 20" and have had conformation that 20x9.5" will be available soon They will not be making a 19x9.5" version. Good times ahead

Who is going to be selling them? Can you PM me the contact details please

Hey mate, Very nice looking ute. Do you mind taking a side on picture from the rear to show the offset of those rims in the rear? Cheers.

Yes you do. Get some Sikaflex-221 from Bunnings.

I am pretty sure the BA's still had 4 piece rear bumper. BF model has revised 3 piece. You should have: 1. Main bumper section 2. Rear skirt 3. LHS skirt 4. RHS skirt Because the LHS and RHS skirts come around the corners and sit over the rear skirt, you have to remove them before you can remove the main bumper and rear skirt. Steps to get the bumper off; 1. Remove rear mud flaps if fitted. 2. Remove LHS and RHS skirts. Bolts in wheel arch, bracket at the bottom and bolted to the rear skirt. 3. LHS and RHS skirts are fixed to sides of tray and rear skirt with automotive exterior trim adhesive, you will need to cut them away slowly. Do not yank on them as they will bend and break. 4. Once the RHS and LHS skirts are off, remove the tail lights. Drop tailgate and remove two bolts in each light and pull them out towards rear. 5. To remove rear bumper and skirt together you are best removing them with bumper support attached to bumper. Look through the top where the lights used to sit and you will see the support bar is bolted to the tray (2 bolts each side). Undo the bolts and the bumper should slide off towards rear. You may need to go from under the car to get to the bolts. Don't forget to disconnect the number plate lights. 6. Once you got the rear bumper off, separating the rear skirt should be self explanatory. These bumpers are a PITA and stupid design. As soon as I come across a BF bumper I will be converting mine. Hope that helps.

What model?

I would not get too excite. Have a look at your local paper and you will see that Ford even go to the effort of enlarging the povo 15" hubcaps on a base model Focus to make them look like the about 17" and lower the cars. This makes the car look alright in the ad but in real like it still looks like a POS.

Very nice and very jealous Make sure you post picture with the 20s fitted.

I think you should post this in the FF.com Boss section. Few guys have done cams on Boss cars with varied results. Not a cheap exercise with quad cams engines and the gains are also minimal for the $$$ spent.

These kits will flow big numbers if you have all the other supporting mods and strong internals. With the 4" intake, cold and hit side piping and cooler, these kits will flow and hold a lot more power then a BA bottom end or 4 speed auto will.

4psi? You might have a boost leak somewhere. Peak boost should be closer to 6psi and with a more efficient cooler you should be over 200rwkw. But it could be they dyno. Did you do before run on the same dyno to compare?

One of those $650 HDI cooler kits would be a lot better then sticking with the stock cooler.

Could be one of the highway patrol cars. It will still have the remainder of the warranty. Is it the 31k one?

The only 18" non FPV BA/BF rim that will clear Brambos is the BA XR8 ones.

Most of the info in that article is wrong. Love how they used a Jag V8 and just edited it with some FPV badges.

The amp only power the subwoofer in the factory premium audio. The rest of the speakers run of the head unit.

This is on ebay atm. The cat back section is mild steel.

Will be interesting to see the results and gains. Also FG vs a plenum on a BA/BF. As long as the cost is reasonable and the gains are good then I see no reason why people would not be interested.

Major offset fail on the FG utes. Even those running 20x10 rear rims still can fill the guards. 25mm spacers may be ok, but would not do much with the 8" wide factory rims. Ford need to revise the rear track and make it wider to accommodate the pumped out tray.

Any chance of getting some more pics to show off the 20" argents?

one of these