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I am in the process of making one. I'll let you know how it works out once its done.

Its been a long time coming. I am building a racing seat and it should be ready for game release

Can anyone recommend an exhaust shop SOR (Rockingham area)? I need to get a cat welded in. Cheers.

15. I measured the depth of the tank, and it was 35cm from edge of cradle hole to the bottom of tank. I them put a tape measure next to the cradle and fully extended the cradle is about 37.5cm from base to the underside of the top. When I compressed the cradle down to 35cm, the distance between the top of fuel pump and underside of cradle cover was about 22cm. I cut a 23cm length of Gates fuel line and fitted it. This resulted in the cradle measuring about 36cm from base to top cover. Here are a few pictures of the GSS432 fitted into the cradle ready to go back in. 16. Refit the rubber seal gasket and carefully lower the cradle into the tank. Again angle the pump so that the float goes in first and then the pump will slide down easy. When I fitted the pump and it was resting on the bottom of the tank there was about a 8mm gap between the top of tank and bottom of cradle cover. Fit the metal ring to the top of cradle and press the cradle down and re-fit bolts in a star order while holding the pump down with one hand. Apply pressure to the top of cradle so it sits flush until you nip up at least two opposite bolts. Once it is bolted down reconnect the power and fuel lines. 17. Refit the fuel pump fuse that you removed earlier and test the pump. Turn your key and listen for the pump priming and once done start the car. The car had full fuel pressure within 2 seconds and car fired up first go. I turned the car off and 10 seconds later put the key back in and tuned it without letting the pump prime and it fired up first go. The pump is little nosier then the factory pump, I could only hear it when I was standing over the tank. I then took the car around the block to make sure it was all ok and all felt and sounded fine to me, car drives just like it did before and pulls the same all the way to limiter. 18. After I was happy that the pump would not have to come back out, I put the tray cover back down and pop riveted it back into place. Be very very careful when drilling as the tank about 50mm under the cover and you could potentially do damage to the fuel tank and cradle if you drop the drill bit down too far. I also sprayed all the metal that I drilled with some rust killer as you can see in the pictures. 19. Refit the tray liner in reverse order you took it off. 20. .... go have a cold beer

11. You will need to separate the lower half of cradle to remove the original fuel pump. I used a few small washers to separate the tabs so I could remove the lower half. It does eventually come off, the trick is to pull it evenly. 12. Once the two parts where apart I removed the factory pump and filter and wash shocked with what I saw. The factory pump has two clips at the bottom that hold it in place. Look at the dirt on the pump and filter, I can only imagine what the bottom of the tank is like. 13. Now time to trial fit the GSS342. The filter shape and position are not ideal and the filter is kinked no matter how I tried to fit it. The pump came with an adapter to change the position of the filter but it did not help as the filter points down at 45deg and I needed to bend it up along side the pump. It is not possible to spin the filter so that it points up. 14. With the power wire I decided to cut the original about 40mm from the top and join it to the Walbro cable with the supplied crimp joiners that came in pump fitting kit. Strip the cables about 5mm and make sure that you crimp them well and check that they are not loose. They should not pull out even with considerable force, best to use a proper crimping tool for this. ..........

I fitted a Walbro GSS342 intank pump into a BA ute and thought I'd take some pictures along the way and make up a "How To" guide. Here a GSS342 pump was used, but the same steps apply for GSS341 and GSS340. In fact after fitting the 342, I recommend the GSS341 or GSS340 due to the filter shape and the way it fits on the 342. This took me about 3.5 hours but that included removing hard cover and fitting it back etc. It is not hard to do but time consuming and should not be rushed. The required 5/16 Gates Submersible Fuel Line Hose can be bought from Repco, it is about $27 for 30cm. The part number is "27093 5/16". Also get two stainless steel EFI hose clamps from Repco. The car had just under 1/4 a tank of fuel when I did this. Or so here is what I did... 1. Park the car where you will work on it and not have to move it. Give yourself room to take out the tub liner etc. 2. Pop the bonnet and remove the fuse cover, just above the battery, and locate the 20amp fuel fuse and remove it. Start the car and the car should stall after about 2 seconds. Remove the key from ignition. 3. Remove your soft or hard cover and remove the tub liner. In the picture below I have circled all the location where I had to remove brackets and bolts etc. 4. Once the tub liner is removed you will see the tray floor. I decided to drill out the spot welds and move the floor panel that sits over the fuel tank. I drilled the spot welds out with a 9mm drill bit. There is no need to drill right through the support rails, only drill enough until you can lift the floor. If you drill right through you run the risk of damage to fuel tank and fuel cradle. See pictures below. 5. Once cover is moved you can see the top of tank and fuel pump. I gave it a wash as mine was covered in dirt. 6. To give more room I loosened the two tank strap bolts and as a result the tank dropped about 40mm and time gave me more room to get the fuel cradle out. The strap come from under the tank and the bolts are on the inner side of the tank. I removed the front bolt and loosened the rear one about half way. The rear bolt is about 20cm under the tray floor towards rear of ute, I stuck my camera down and took a pic. 7. Next remove the 3 fuel lines connected to the pump cradle. The trick is to push the hose forward while pushing the clips back with a small flat head screw driver. 8. Once the hoses are off undo the 6 bolts that hold the cradle down. For the back two bolt I used a Z shape screw driver to get them out. Once the bolts are out remove the black cover ring and carefully lift out the cradle. There is a rubber gasket, make sure it does not drop and take note which way it sits. The ute cradles has a float attached to them so be careful when removing, you need to spin the cradle and angle it out slowly. I covered the hole in the tank with a clean rag. 9. Here are a few pictures of the fuel cradle. The ute cradle is a lot taller then the sedan one due to the tank being a lot deeper. I removed the float and put it aside. 10. Disconnect the fuel pump and fuel level wiring. Also cut the fuel hose the runs from the flue pump to the top of cradle. ....to be continued

They are painted silver from the factory, so you will have to strip all the paint off it first before you attempt to polish it. Also if you want to polish it up you will need to smooth out all the casting on the end tanks.

I am up for heading down on a Wednesday night as well. The first few weeks are good while its still very cool and there is no wind, only downside as mentioned is the wait.

Grug, you can get them on ebay. They are sold by a seller called "sales_hma" Here is a link to his store eBay Seller: sales hma: Cars, Bikes, Boats items on eBay Australia The gauges that Steve has are "Race Tech 52mm Smoke Stepper" Blue LED lit.

Gauges look good Steve

I did spot a pretty clean black Clubby for sale not too long ago? .......had a big turbo and lazy 600rwhp.

Unplug the oil pressure sender wire from the switch. Put a spanner on the block side nut of the oil feed line and a deep socket on the other side and split them that way. Careful not to crush the oil pressure sender plug.

They clip in via a couple of holes that you need to drill.

No worries. Would have been good if the seller provided you with some instructions If you remove the OEM airbox that will give you room to work and get you hand under the intake manifold. Get a lead light if you do not have one so you can see what you are doing under there.

4DZILR, in the above photo the OEM filter/fitting on the left is what was in my car (early BA) and the one of the left is the new one I bought from Ford (revised version). Both the fittings in the photo still have the screen filter in them. I was just showing how the revised filter is bigger inside the fitting. Yours will most likely be the same as the one on the left. Once you remove it from your car you will need to remove the cur-clip (what the arrow is point at) and slide the filter element out of the fitting. Clean the fitting and reuse it without the screen filter that you removed. In your kit you have an inline filter which sits closer to the turbo.

You have to remove the OEM filter fitting from the block, the little screen filter is inside the fitting. You then need to remove the OEM screen filter that is inside this fitting and reuse the fitting without the screen filter in it. Look at the thread in the turbo section about turbo filter maintenance http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=32461&view=findpost&p=1019602 I posted a bunch of photos of the OEM filter fitting and you can see the little screen filter that everyone is referring to.

Congratulations, looks awesome. I think one of the best parts of these cars is the interior treatment they get, they look sensational

dane01, did you do it with the tray on or did you pull it off? Did you pull the whole tank out?

How did you do it on the drive away?

Love it appart from the black tail lights The fronts look like they are a tight fit.

If anything you will use more fuel as the whole reason for needing a higher volume pump is that the current one can not pump enough fuel into the engine.

Sounds like you might have the "premium" brake option that was only available back on the BA. Basically the fronts are bigger PBR C6 caliper and the rotors are 325mm (stock are 298mm). This C6 and 325mm rotor setup was also used on the first GTs and Typhoons before 4 pot Brembos became standard. Or you could also have the BF setup which is a 322mm rotor with the same caliper as on standard BA brakes. The calipers look different (C6 vs standard) but they are both made by PBR. So if you find a PBR stamp don't assume you have premium brakes. Post a picture of the front calipers if you can.

Check it again

mummba, try this Wheel Offset Calculator