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Know how you feel haha. There were only a handful of Turbos in total and two of them did not even last a lap in the super-cruise. One did a tailshaft and the other drive shaft from the look of it. Mikes car performed well as per usual

This was by far the worst Motorvation that I have been to, very average indeed.

Yea very easy to get the filter out, undo 6 screws to take the lid off and loosen one clamp and the filter comes out easy. Both intake and flutter noise are very very loud.

Under headlight intake is ok but do not expect much. BRP intake is the way to go, but if you do not fancy spending $650 you can make your own for a fraction of the price. This is one I knocked up and it works a treat.

hypnodoc, how loud was the knock when driving? I have a similar knock (metaling rattle) and it almost sounds like a socket or something it tapping on the guard, it can get pretty loud. Also only knocks/rattles when going over bumpy road etc. Cheers.

I need about 160sqm or liquid limestone and also a retaining wall (1m limestone blocks) done in Baldivis. If you know or can recommend someone around the Kwinana/Rockingham/Mandurah area please let me know. Cheers.

I have a mysterious clunk coming from the front of may BA, has been there for a while but has gotten worse over time. I have check over everything and all the suspension components are tights and I have replaced and installed new front springs, struts, sway-bar and bushes and camber kit and bushes. The only components not replaced are the lower control arm bushes and the ball joints. Noise was there before any of this was done and it is still there. The rattle only occurs if I go over sharp bumps or paved and uneven roads and it sounds like something rattling against the inside of one of the front guards and resonates through the cabin pretty loud. I have been over everything I could think off and nothing is loose. Could this be lower control arm bushes? Its been driving me nuts for the last 12 months and I got NFI what else to look for Cheers

Saw an LG 60" Full HD plasma at Harvey Norman today for $1788, looks the same as in the pic posted by Grug.

This topic has been done to death. LS1, LS2 and LS3 > 5.4 BOSS

I would feel embarrassed for the person driving that thing by just seeing it Check out the exhaust, it is not even a Turbo. Why the hell would you??

Get the old actuator out and then adjust the new one to be the exact same length. You will notice a massive difference in resting tension between stock and the 12lb actuator.

Ring up Chris from Rapid, he still has the cats for about $160 + postage. It should not cost you more than $100 to have it welded in, so about ~$300 all up. Valve spring cost about $300 for a set (Nizpro) and it takes about 4-5hrs to fit them, $1300 is very very steep, should be more like $400-500 for labor.

This might be the case for BF's and FG's with low kms etc. Looks like the OP has a BA and I can tell you from experience that I would not take the risk of running around on a stock OEM fuel pump that is 7 or 8 years old, the intank filter probably looks like a ball of mud. Plus the OEM cat is more then likely shagged as well and as soon as it disintegrates the car will boost spike. xr6t 4.0, you will also need a new set of plug with smaller gaps. Get something like a gas or F6 plug that is gaped to 0.7-0.8mm. Also thinks like new fuel filter and general service etc.

At those prices you are getting shafted!! Check these links for fuel pump and injectors. Call them direct if you have never bough from ebay before. Fuel pump assembly for $253 http://cgi.ebay.com.au/SENDER-WALBRO-GSS340-FUEL-PUMP-FORD-XR6-TURBO-BA-BF-/370466155699?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item564180ecb3#ht_3485wt_905 60lb Deka injectors for $330 http://cgi.ebay.com.au/SIEMENS-650CC-DEKA-60-FUEL-INJECTORS-XR6-TURBO-LS1-XR8-/370466155696?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item564180ecb0#ht_5299wt_905 To help your valve springs grab a 100CPI Rapid cat, this will relieve some of the back pressure (make sure you get a 100cpi cat). Also for the sake of it cluck on something like an F6 or Monza cooler, they are both average but will be better then the stock XR6 cooler.

Yea I have seen all 4 episodes as well. Much better than TG Australia. That drifter guy is in another show called "Battle of the Supercars", in each episode they compare two supercars (some highly modified) against each other. Not bad also and worth watching. See here for more info http://www.speedtv.com/programs/battle-of-the-supercars/

Where are you located? If you Turbo is getting oil it still could be blocked internally. The bearing oil feed inside the cartridge is something like 10 or 20 thou from memory and they get blocked and cause the bearing pack to run very hot from a lack of lubrication.

f s I x, I have a full Plazmaman stage 1 pipe kit to suit the cooler. Grug, did you just run the Stage 1 cooler or did you also have the replacement pipe kit?

I bet it goes a lot harder than any boat anchor (BOSS) power BA

Standard BF 18" wheel with no tyre is 11.3kg. Does anyone know how much factory FG 19" and FPV 19" wheels weigh?

Tocchi, you idea look very similar to the BPR air box that they have had a lot of success with. They seem to be very popular with Boss owners and a few Turbo owners praise it too. I am in the process of making one myself. Here is what the BPR airbox looks like. I am not 100% sure what exact filter they use but I know that it has a 4" intake and is about 9-10" long. It could be K&N Part RE-0870.

Yea that will be fine, that seller also has 60lb and 80lb siemens injectors.

Valve springs take about 4 hours from start to finish and injectors add about 30min to this as they can be done at the same time. Fitting a fuel pump to a sedan would take about 1 hour at the most. Be careful when buying your fuel pump and make sure you get a genuine Walbro pump. If I was you I would talk to your tuner about sourcing parts etc, but you might be better off supplying them depending on what the tuner will charge. With a BA Siemens Deka 60lb injects are more then enough and they are very commonly used, you can get a new flow matched set of 6 for about $350.

Without the stall converter that would be up around the 320-330rwkw mark I think.

I had this issue a while ago. The throttle would stick for a bit and spring back. I thought it was a problem with the fly-by-wire stuff but after a bit of fiddling found it was the bottom the of the accelerator paddle catching on the floor mat. I had the clips in but the mat sits a bit further forward that what it should as the hoses were put in about 5mm too far forward by previous owner. Solution for me was to trim the bottom of the accelerator peddle about 10mm so that it would not catch on the edge of the floor mat. This is only possible for us that do not have the fancy paddles though.

Mate that looks epic!! Personal opinion but I think that looks better than what it would with the much loved Argent wheels!!