ITINT

Hi IM2QIK, Was just reading your question to XRT330 regarding the auto trans changes since the fitting of the phase 2 kit. I have had the phase 2 fitted to my car for approx 4 months now, have not had the auto upgraded and have absolutely no problem with the shift for 2-3 or any other shift. Previous to the phase 2 install I had the phase 1 for around 7 months and had no problems with that either. Hope this helps.

56 Mainline my experience is similar to yours. I gained a 5 % decrease in fuel consumption with just a Unichip fitted. Early indications with the Phase 2 kit are 2-3% better on my regular highway trip to Melbourne. As with BLKXRT however, my trip computer is showing about a 25% decrease in the consumption (as mentioned in my previous post). It does seem pretty clear that a correctly installed and tuned chip not only gives some serious KW gains but will also enable better fuel consumption..... if you can restrain yourself from using the extra horses all the time.

BLKXRT are you taking your figures from the trip computer or are you doing your own calculations after each fill? I had my APS stage 2 fitted 2 months ago and immediately noticed a 25% drop in the indicated fuel economy as registered on the trip computer. Have since done my own calculations for every fill (using same pump and filled to 2nd click each time) and the economy is almost eaxactly 25 % higher than the indicated figures for each tank (previously would get high 9's per 100km, now trip computer indicates mid 7's on a highway cruise). APS claims the new injectors have a 25% greater flow rate...... seems a bit coincidental that the trip computer is now out by that amount. Have emailed them and waiting on a reply. By the way APS Phase 2 is AWESOME!!!

Al Bundy in respose to your questions I can confirm that the APS Phase 1 kits do increase fuel economy. On my vehicle it is between 5-10% if you drive in a similar manner to before...... As to the power just have a look at the dyno graph at the APS web site. I can confirm it's accuracy as that is my dyno chart. If you can get a chance to drive a T with a Phase 1 kit you wont be able to book the car in quick enough. :lol: Warranty is another issue. Depends on your dealer. If you want to get into the legalities then the modification must be proven to have caused the failure for the warranty to not be honoured but if it gets to that point, GOOD LUCK! Have a talk to APS or a distributor about the best time to fit. I think they were saying around 7000km is ideal but mine was done earlier.

If I wasn't a 7 hour drive from you Kitty, I'd have been there already!! :D Happy to help in any way I can (you got the number, use it if you need to)

Aaron if the real reason for the gaps is that the seals are tight against the glass then it is unlikely that they will get it much closer the next time. Sounds more like they may be unsure how to remove and replace the seals. As I mentioned previously it isn't that hard, but can be a bit daunting if you haven't done it before. If you need to, I can give you a step by step procedure or if the guys from the shop wanted to ring me I could step them through it (0412698551). Let us know how you go!

My auto T (with Unichip) averages high 9's on a freeway trip (lowest of 9.16L/100km for 360km freeway trip on cruise at 110). Around town 14-15L/100km. I have recently had an APS phase 2 fitted but haven't had the first tank through it, so will post figures soon. In comparison my manual BAXR8 ute uses around 1-1.5L/Km more than the T on the highway but around the same around town (14-15L/100km). These figures are actual (not from the trip computer) as the display seems to indicate around 0.4-0.5L/100km higher.

Tinting the AU's used to be a pain sometimes as it was almost impossible to get the film under the seals. The seals sit very tight against the glass and this meant that there was a gap 3-5mm along the edge. Then about 2 years ago we worked out that it isn't that hard to remove the window seals. Then all you see is tint all the way to the edge. Need to apply a bit of lube to get the seals back in though (unless you want to cut them off short - they extend a fair way down inside the door). If anyone is having an AU/BA tinted make sure you question the tinter as to whether he is removing the seals and will not be leaving any gaps if this worries you.

Fordtech, where is the 'C' connector you mentioned? If that was the problem why would it have only happened in the last couple of weeks? Can't think of anywhere the car has been where it might have been disconnected. When you had the overboost issue Ninka did the car just lose power or did it run rough as guts???

Thanks guys! :D At least now I have somewhere to start....... and hopefully end!!! If it turns out to be a matter of some tweaking of the Unichip would there be any problem in resetting the codes? If not I might have to drop in and see you at Knox, Cam.

In some areas the Ford dealers use Tint-a-Car but the dealers in many cases will go with the company that gives them the best deal. The dealer tint that Tint-a-Car install will usually consist of an metallic (aluminium) film on the windups and dyed non-metallic on the rear screen. If you are intent on retaining some AM reception and you also insist on metallic film the nickel alloy based film (eg like Formula 1) will give less reception problems than the aluminium films but will still give a degraded signal on AM. Catch 22, AM - dyed film lower quality (purple in a couple of years?) or risk the AM - metallic (nickel alloy or aluminium). An external aerial the best option and go for the good stuff.

I already had a booking arranged at APS for next week before the car went in to the dealer so will get them to check things out. Hopefully will just be an easy fix but I suppose I still need to resolve the code reset issue. What the Ford tech at Traralgon actually said was that he could not reset the code/s and even if he could he wouldn't unless the Unichip was removed?? Where are you located Cam? This might seem a stupid question but who are dynomotive?

Twice in the last two weeks while accelarating My car started to miss and felt like it had dropped a cylinder or developed a nasty elec fault. Once I had pulled over switched it off and restarted everything was fine. Had to take it in to the dealer today to have the water pump O-ring seal replaced and asked them to check if any codes were up. They tell me it has codes up relating to wastegate/overboost? Not sure whether that was one code or not. Anyone else experienced a similar problem and does it sound like an overboost issue? My car has a Unichip and dealer says they cannot (or could be will not) reset the codes until I have the Uni removed.

When looking at tinting you can basically break it down into the metallics and non-metallics. Metallics are (as a rule) of a higher quality than the dyed non-metallics. It is the metallic film on the rear screen that will be giving radio reception problems and metallic on the side windups will not cause any drama (contrary to Fords original bulletin to dealers). The initial technical bulletin released by Ford to the dealers gave approval only for the 3M film. This issue was taken up with Ford, I believe by MEP films and I believe they then admitted that the only reason that they recommended this product is because it was the only film applied to the BA's pre release and it did not affect radio on the AM band (obviously a smart move by the 3M distibutor). Ford was then informed that there are plenty of other films out there that also do the same job as the 3M product. We were tinting the local Ford dealers cars with metallic windups and non-metallic rear screen. Ford also do not apply there own window film. The dealers use tinters either at the dealership or local operators to apply the film. This means there is no consistent standard of product being applied. Anyway, either go non-metallic if you want full AM reception but beware that you are comprimising on quality or go metallic and lose some (or all) AM. I use a nickel based film (better than aluminium) on my car and reception ranges from poor to good depending on station. Hope this helps.