ubyte

what's wrong with envi!?!?

13.8 is a rough average for me. Depends on how much sydney traffic I get stuck in... Must admit... constantly drag'n crapodore LS1's from the lights and "winning" doesnt kind of help!!! At least thou its a little better then the first 1500k's... 16ish was the average

Interesting bit of reading about spark plug gaps. Also adds an interesting thought to FordTechs mention of after market "pod" style filters contributing to overboost situations... Excert below borrowed from www.ngkspark.com.au 3. Gapping Since the gap size has a direct affect on the spark plug's tip temperature and on the voltage necessary to ionise (light) the air/fuel mixture, careful attention is required. While it is a popular misconception that plugs are pre-gapped from the factory, the fact remains that the gap must be adjusted for the vehicle that the spark plug is intended for. Those with modified engines must remember that a modified engine with higher compression or forced induction will typically require a smaller gap settings (to ensure ignitability in these denser air/fuel mixtures). As a rule, the more power you are making, the smaller the gap you will need. A spark plug's voltage requirement is directly proportionate to the gap size. The larger the gap, the more voltage is needed to bridge the gap. Most experienced tuners know that opening gaps up to present a larger spark to the air/fuel mixture maximises burn efficiency. It is for this reason that most racers add high power ignition systems. The added power allows them to open the gap yet still provide a strong spark. With this mind, many think the larger the gap the better. In fact, some aftermarket ignition systems boast that their systems can tolerate gaps that are extreme. Be wary of such claims. In most cases, the largest gap you can run may still be smaller than you think.

Fordtech You mentioned the spark plugs AGSP22Z11. I know their ford rebadged but do you know who makes them?

Looks more like a XR wanna be the more I look at it. I think the funniest bit of info pushed out by Expensive Daewoo thus far is the ramping up of the 'new' camery ... ops Expensive Daewoo v6 and its specs. Its funny how they dont mention in order for it to develop enough kw's to equal the BA 6 it needs to run on pulp... Makes me kind of wonder if the blue oval will follow suit and update the BA 6 to run on both std and pulp alike. Advantage to holden... nup but its a nice try!!!

r they all T's? the envi color really looks good on the xr's

ah!!! beautiful site! The best I saw today where 6 new xr6t cop cars in penrith....

mmm maybe we should start "fixing" the speed camera's. Someone got a angle grinder?

Can be... could also try going in with a straight cash deal. Dealers seem to like that.

You want to consider these alternatives... http://www.airpowersystems.com.au/falcon/xr6turbo.htm http://www.airpowersystems.com.au/falcon/avalon/307kph.htm http://www.capa.com.au/xr6.htm http://www.capa.com.au/prices_ford_power_parts.htm Dont forget to watch out for the T5 manual box... it doesnt like too much more nm's...

Must admit in my situation the dealer was quite happy to show me how to properly drive the xr8 and T in successon (both manual and triptronic vers)... dont think I've ever had a dealer fang a series of cars out of the dealership, scream down the road and take corners like a bathurst race. He handed me the keys after each demo and said "Its your license, enjoy." And yes a T is mine ... well technically the bank has leased it to me.... As for petrol... after the time I've had the car I can honestly same optimax is over rated. You better off getting vortex and stuffing in a can or two of tolerine. and in the words of my dad who drove my T for the first time..... "ooohhhhhh yeeeaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhh."

Bird dodo will eat thru almost anything if left long enough. I must admitt I've used a glaze polymer and carnauba wax all the time. Smooth as and bird doo/road grime/etc comes straight off. Interesting info on this link http://www.autopages.com.au/ap.php?u=ap-wash A good tip for when birds do attack.. attend to it pronto and never scrub or scrape it off. Get a bottle of soda water, shake it vigorously and spray it onto the bird dodo. Allow it to soak in and then hose the mess off.

Even better when reality kicks-in and the carnage starts... I wonder how many times that 4wd actually rolled before they managed to get it to stay up on two wheels. http://www.members.lycos.co.uk/matrixs13/mqa63/ERH(4)ABE.zip

To be honest I wouldnt even bother. At the end of the day the dealer simply gets a 3rd party person to come in spray on the wax polymer. The dealer pays the 3rd party dude pitance and appropriately charges you a huge mark up (normally around a 1000% markup.) The question you have to ask yourself is ... "How come a brand new car that has been painted using state of the art technology requires some third party polymer proctection? Does Ford stipulate that you must purchase this aftermarket product? Does this mean that Ford uses substandard paints on their cars?" Some how I think not. The same goes for rust and fabric proctection. The dealer again gets some cheap 3rd party dude to spray the underneath of the car with some compound and spray the carpet/upholstery of your car with scotch guard! And just think ... the dealer will offer you this fantastic "deal" for 2-3k. It only cost him a few hundred ... Best known dealers rort. There's a variety of wax's, glazes and polish out there, just need to use soem elbow greese. If you really want to keep that "just out of the show room shine" have a look around for a polish called "Final inspection." The liquid is pink in color and has an interesting odor. Cheap is isnt!

Mondie, yeah true with private use. I guess at the end of the day, you can still own the car privately, keep a log book for business use and claim business use at tax time. That way you dont have to worry about leasing, FBT rates and get a nice rebates come tax time...

Essentially to be better off (more money in your pocket) you need to do more then 15K per year on your car to get your money back or at the very least break even 0-15000k's - Costs you more (then private ownership) 15-25000 - You past break even point and get even slightly get ahead 25-40000 - Get slightly ahead over 40000 - Get further ahead If the FBT rates change (which they are tiped to do this year regardless of who wins the federal elections), you will need to be doing 25K + a year to see benefits. All in all you need to be on a high wage really to see any benefits at all. The whole reason you go into these arrangements is to reduce your taxable threshold of captital.

just one word.... "WHY?" If the dude wants to be a 4 cyclinder wanna be then go buy one!

http://203.89.210.4/ and plunk in the details as requested.

Yeah... was the french reviwers actually. Essentially it was an oversized washer that was the souce of the oil leak. The germans tried the lets tighen it to all buggery ... funnily enought the problem still existed. Its still a bit of surprise to me as I thoughts the blue ovel had addressed this issue back in Feb/Mar '04. However the situation sounds a bit like tyre jockies at beaurepairs that strip the wheel studs cause they dont thread the nuts on by hand to begin with!!!

5kms... dam now that's a good stretch of road. How long did it take to wind up to that speed? And have you had the diff done?

Got 2 V private roads....32.7l/r @ 230. How long did u keep it at 230 for?

more scantly clad chicks!!!

Might want to check if its running fuel rich... Take the T out for bit of burn on a cold nite ie get the engine to 'normal' operating temperature. Find somewhere (like your driveway) where you can safely get out and check the gas coming from the rear. Typically speaking you shouldn't be able to smell unburnt fuel let alone see fuel favour being spat out. Other tell-tale signs was lack of power while accelerating, engine missing under light load, and rough idling. Seen this once before. ECU was stuffed. Even sitting in deadlock peak hour sydney traffic mine returns 15ish.

Auto or manual.... T's are damn fast which ever way you go. However auto's will be generally quicker than the manual... unless in professional hands. The reasoning is simply this... in the auto the boost of the turbo will in most cases always be on full thrust when accelerating. With an auto knock it into performance mode. From a complete stop floor it (traction control should take care of most anti-social behaviour.) Hold that accelerator to the floor boards and DO NOT LET IT UP. Watch the tacho. Around 5000rpm knock that triptronic gear up one. Keep that accelerator to the floor. Watch the tacho. Around 5000rpm... you get the idea. With a manual you got the clutch and matching gear changes to worry about. Between gear changes your going to have to let off the accelerator and thus turbo boost. You could always not give a about the gearbox/clutch... BTW - you might want to find a nice quiet place to try the above... for the adventerous there is always anywhere around goulburn! :lol:

yep the shhh shh is a standard feature on all vy c'dores and monaro's... and for no extra there's the power steering grind and thump noise everytime u turn a corner!!! :lol: Doesnt make a scrap of difference if you upgrade the brake package either. From what I understand theres a slight problem with the commonly used brake compound that causes this problem. Doesnt seem to make a difference if u drive sainly or spiritly! Apparently the big blue oval is well aware of this 'enhancement feature' and is in the process of fixing it. To date the only fix was machining the mungrels...