Mals BA XR6T

I use the SSS Manual mode most of the time, I love the fact you don't have to pump your left foot everytime you want to change gears... that's so old hat! Sophisticated Performance, just can't get enough

Hows this... (And what did the dealer say..... Nothing!!!) 1. Oil leak from Diff (resolved) 2. Boot leak (resolved) 3. Door trim screws, and various screw caps missing (resolved) 4. Wiper blade nut cap missing (resolved) 5. Chip in paint, pre-delivery (resolved, but need to paint again due to dry spray, and apply paint protection) 6. Centre console material bubbling (resolved) 7. Driver door trim damaged, pre-delivery (resolved) 8. Alternator Whine (not resolved, antenna amp noise?? louder with rear demister on!) 9. High Speed whistle from windshield (now heard at low speed) loudest with front windows up (Not resolved) 10. Disk Brakes warped!!!!!! (Machined once, back again, machined again, warped again! Disks replaced, seems good) 11. Seat bases broken (resolved, broken again, not resolved) 12. Handbrake rub (resolved, WORSE, fixed again, resolved) 13. Vibrating exhaust shield at idle (resolved) 14. Smoke from bonnet, rough idle, whistle noise (resolved, broken again, resolved - Recalled to add clamps) Will I buy another Ford, well put it this way, it's cost me over $1000 to take this car back and forth to the dealer already, so I will be thinking really hard next time, the B4 is looking better and better. It seems ironic that I sold my AU XR8 before it started to have problems and cost me money!

spot on mate, autos are for girls and old men!!! :D I'm surprised that you speak like this? I have nothing but respect for facts, and even comments, but I'm shocked that you put people down? Please respect others, I hate to see a huge sh*t fight over this again. Turbotrana - Great facts, do you know how we can find the same information for the Auto?

I think we have speculated about this in great detail, I personally have little interest in unsubstantiated comments.... but.... I'm happy to hear the facts, and accurate justification. For starters, Fordboy, please tell me why you say this is so? Have you tested the T5, do you have a mate that's tested it, have you information from the manufacture. And I assume you have done the same with the Auto?

I'm curious what the Auto's are rated at. I've heard a lot of talk about the Auto will be the best box if your upping the power? What's it rated at?

A rear-ender is now really going to hurt a lot. I'd never reverse park anymore either, just in case! :lol: :lol:

I didn't measure the outside air, I only measured the air right in front of the standard intake and then in front of the air box. If the outside air was slightly less it's pointless as that's not what was actually entering the standard intake anyway. I was only interested in the air temp increase behind the light in comparison to the standard intake. I don't think it's going to suck hot engine air, should this have been the case I would have noticed that the air in front of the air box increased in temperature, which wasn't the case at all. As I suspected, when the car was sitting idle the temperature did increase (in front of the standard intake more in actual fact, maybe due to the fans?), but that changed to fresh air very quickly in both sensor positions, when tested. I agree, if there is any change at all, it’s only as bee’s wily

Yesterday I was thinking about what would happen should I drill a couple of ~2" holes at the bottom of the standard air box. I remember that this made a little difference to the old AU XR8 I had. Rather than go like a bull in a china shop and hack at my perfectly good XRT, I thought I'd test the temperature of the air coming through the front headlight, just in front of the air box. Securing the sensor in place, and after some spirited driving, the air temperature fluctuated between 16.5-17.5 degrees C. I then moved the sensor and placed it just in front of the standard cold air intake. The temperature this time fluctuated between 15.5-16.5 degrees C. Given this, it doesn't take a mathematician to conclude that the temperature difference is only 1 degree. Now that's disregarding the fact that the engine could raise the temperature through the cold air pipe, maybe rising it half a degree, and also that if there were holes in the air box the air would flow through maybe dropping the temperature a little bit. Soooo. I pulled out the trusty cordless drill, a hole saw drill bit, and the tools to remove the box, and I had all the pieces needed for surgery. 2 holes were drilled right in the front, about half an inch from the bottom of the box. Tools away, air box back in, and bonnet down. Time for the test. As with the more recent exhaust change, the difference could be my imagination. Either way it feels like I have a bit more punch, again mostly down low. If I recall from the dyno day lifting the air filter gave about another 5kW at the wheels. Anyway, it's done, and IMO it's improved bottom end, but my wife tells me I'm always having myself on!

B4, SV8, or XT V8 with the works... or maybe the XR8, but think it's over priced.

Yep had the same problem on the AU XR8, I always thought how hard is it too. Anyway, it did happen on the BA, they tried to fix it, and then it was worse than before... anyway they got it right the second time

I'd say part of the resale problem is both Ford, and Holden, rip apart the shape of their cars every 4 years or so. I think if they left it till 8 years it would be a different story. Look and the BMW's for example, you can tell they are a BM straight away, and I think that's part of the reason they hold their value so well. Toyota's Landcruiser is another example

I have a question. Given that my car was dyno'ed at Unigroup in Shootout mode, can Croydon adjust the dyno to match Unigroups settings? The reason I ask is that I have had the centre muffler removed and wouldn't mind knowing if it made any difference. But if the variance is around 10kW, between different dyno's anyway, I think I'd probably be wasting my time, and should go back to Unigroup. What is everyone's thoughts?

I personally don't have a big problem with it. I wanted the XR for the features, not only the looks, so I don't care. Think about it for a second, Ford are not really the ones stopping it, or starting it, they may just be the ones getting in first. Take Bogan special in Sydney for example, after I damaged the front of my old XR8 I needed a replacement, Ford wanted around $1600, Bogan special wanted around $700. Although I didn't get the XR front from Bogan special I did get the Supercar front. Now the XR8 was far from a Supercar, but hell it looked good (see http://www4.tpg.com.au/users/weare it's sold now though) Anyway, each to their own, they will get the parts either from Ford or the aftermarket industry later down the track. I think the AU had one thing going for it, and that was it was a lot harder to change the entire front end. The new BA is not as hard, so expect to see a lot of this

Yep Interested... and keen to do it... It's in the diary!

I'm sure I said this before, but if you put enough pressure on Ford they will fix the problem at an individual level. And if anyone thinks that the problem is trivial think again. Harsan, please correct me if I was wrong, but you suggested it wasn't a big problem... I'm not having a go at you, more about stating a point. If the shudder is bad enough, and I had very bad shudder, could this effect wheel bearings and the integrity of the suspension etc by such harsh shudder. I personally would think it could have an effect, and since would not tow my boat because the brakes were such an issue. My point is IMO they are a big problem, but talk to Ford first

I think that's the million dollar question, no one knows yet. More power to the wheels on a dyno doesn't always mean quicker straight line times

When is the next one due to come out?

SSS Auto - Sophisticated Performance :D

Oh, also, I forgot to mention the original muffler is a straight through. It has a slight bend but otherwise straight through. Thought it may be of interest to some people?

Ok, it's done, the centre muffler has been REMOVED! I know, I know, you want pictures... well I have heaps... but first things first. THE NOTE IS AWESOME!!! It's not loud, it's doesn't drone, it's just a slight increase in volume but you can hear the sweet burble. It's very hard to discribe, it's like a mix between a V8 and WRX. It's not the same note from a 3". My personal opinion is that it's better. two reasons, first it's not as loud, and second you can hear the burble better IMO. Also, I'd like to thank Scott from Carline Gosford for all his advise Here it is, ready for some surgery Click Here Standard Exhaust Click Here Centre muffler from the rear (No dirty comments please!) Click Here Centre muffler rear, close up Click Here Centre muffler from the front Click Here Centre muffler from the front, close up Click Here Centre muffler removed Click Here Centre muffler removed (another angle) Click Here Replaced with straight through pipes Click Here Ok, all done. Click Here All this for less than $100. At this stage I haven't had it back on the Dyno, but impressions are that it has a little more bottom end pull... It could be my imagination, and be put down to a deeper sound, but it seems better. I'm hoping to get it back on the Dyno to see for sure Feel free to PM me a "virtual beer" for this information :lol:

Ok after thinking about this for some time, and talking about it for even longer :lol: I'll be removing the centre muffler, taking pictures, sound, video etc and letting everyone know my results... I'll even try to take it back to Unigroup and put it back on the dyno (as long as they don't charge me to much) and post the results also Hows that? I'll take a beer from everyone who finds the information useful :lol: which will probably mean I'll be drunk for weeks :lol: :lol:

Just out of curiosity, I have a couple of questions. I assume you have a sedan, and is it an Auto 1. Does it still have 2 mufflers 2. Is it stainless 3. and finally, what did it set you back (if it's not a rude question) Thanks

Ok, after talking to a number of people, and exhaust places I still do not have a consistent, regular answer. Believe it or not, I have had about 4 different answers from 4 different "experts" 1. Replace Cat back with 3" system (2 mufflers) 2. Replace after cat (first flange) with 3" system 3. Remove Centre muffler 4. Remove Rear muffler Ok, what the hell do I do?? (I'm still confused) I'm leaning toward removing the centre muffler as Esky suggested, but also thinking what the difference is between the centre and rear mufflers, because the rear would be easier to remove? Are they similar internally, does anyone know? They look very similar

CLEAR INSTRUCTIONS to your wife... I let go of that fantasy with my wife a long time ago I get, "bye, I'm going up the road..... yeah, yeah, whatever, I know, don't drive fast, watch the front spoiler, and ......remember to turn the lights off"

The problem is REAL. Mine warped at 1500ks, machined at 3000ks, warped again a 4500, machined again at ~7000, warped at 9000, and replaced at ~10,000ks (by request, front only) It's a problem, but you wouldn't probably notice if you drive a manual, or don't leave your foot on the brakes for an extended time. Try it, hold your foot slightly on your brakes while going down a gentle slope, as soon as they start to get hot you'll notice shudder (maybe slight steering wheel side to side motion) and once this has happened it doesn't recover, regardless of how cool/warm they are from there on. You need to do your own tests... I mean who has actually "tested" their ABS?? How does your car respond?