Benny

I use to use optimax but have since changed to BP Ultimate due to the fact that optimax has been known for fouling plugs and being very sooty. Performance I don't think there's any difference between Optimax, Ultimate or Synergy 8000 but some people believe there is. If I had the money to waste I'd run C16 all day every day. he he

I've seen lots of different intercooler spay setups on various turbo cars. Some are bought as a kit that can come on when the throttle reaches a certain % and I've seen some quite neat home made jobs from an extra windsceen washer bottle and garden sprinkler nozzles. None the less they are very effective. I think that the two door STI come with them standard.

When that time is run on a proper drag strip then I'll believe it. I've been in alot of cars that seem to do great times on a G Tech but when taken to a drag strip just can't do the same. I'm not saying that Merlin is lying just that I question the accuracy of G Techs.

Had a sit in a marked XR6T at Klosters the other day. Was having the intercooler piping fixed after it blew off. I couldn't beleive how much stuff they have screwed into the dash and surrounding areas. Awesome looking car though.

As long as you lower the profile every inch that you increase the rim size therefore keeping the same rolling diameter all is good. I've got 18"x8" AMG wheels with Bridgestone SO3 Pole position rubber. The SO3's are the best tyre I've ever driven on and I've had Falken, Goodyear F1, Yokohama and Marshalls.

Sorry plonky didn't mean to get you all fired up. I'm sure you know the rules as you do this for a job I was just simply stating what I read in zoom magazine. They did a driveby test with the guys from the epa and they said all was ok.

If your worried about getting a defect notice then read the zoom magazine issue. It explains that even if you remove the centre muffler the car will still pass all ADR rules and regulations. In the artical it shows the testing they did after the removal. If your still not convinced then get an engineers certificate.

Exactly right. If you want to modify the car to produce more hp the auto is the way to go. Although the manual is easier to extract more power the the auto is the strongest of the two. This was said to me by a friend at fords engine department. Which has already replaced a manual gear box in a T that he was modifying at work.

So many of you guys are lucky to be let off. Never ever have I been let off a driving infringement. 2x Neg driving 2x speeding 1x no signal(indication) The ones I like to remember are the ones that I avoided being caught. I was just merging into one lane in my AU after beating a magna of the lights when my radar detector went crazy. I was doing about 95 in a 60 so I jumped on the anchors and sure enough their they were with the laser gun in hand. As I passed them the officer stepped out and gave me one mean death stare. I would've liked to know what was going through his head as went past.

There are a few pads that have just been released on to the market for the ba. Ferrodo, Bendix, EBC, etc. Race Brakes in sydney are also very close to releasing their RB74 pad. One of the best places for info on pads is the MRT forum due to the amount of track work people on that forum do or ask DBA Steve. You have to pick a pad that suits your driving and budget.

Did notice a slight increase in induction noise up around >4000 revs but not much and the car seemed to be breathing better in the high revs( reving more freely). Couldn't say the car went faster because the difference isn't that huge. Just like any filter you can't expect big horse power increase.

The whole falcon range except the wagon have a two piece drive shaft. The turbo also has different pistons to reduce compression.

Bought myself a K&N panel air filter the other day. Fits perfectly into the air box and is definately made for the BA. Part No. is 33-2852 Cost $120 Thought some people here might be interested.

Do you have a model number for this part? My local Autobarn keeps saying that they haven't made a replacement filter yet, but for $160-$170 I can go a BMC- If the K&N is cheaper, I would prefer to go with what I know AND save $$$ Unsure of the model No. at the moment cuz I'm at work. Its diffinately for the BA, said so on the box and fits perfectly.

Or you could try a K&N panel filter got one the other day. $120 No dyno runs been done yet.

Good Blow off valves are design to vent the pressure build up between the turbo and the throttle. Doing this prevents this back pressure from rapidly reducing the turbos speed therefore reducing lag. So it will make a difference but small.

As everyone has already said its highly illegal but increases power. You'll be suprised how many fast street cars there are without them (lots). Most street cars that I've seen with this mod usually punch out the cat so it still looks like its there. But the RTA will soon find out if they subject you to an imissions test. Another obvious sign is that cars without a cat will blow flames at times between gear shifts, easy to see at night.

Hey Esky, What parts were used and size of sway bars etc. I have mine lowered but need some sway bars to correct oversteer. Prices might be good to if you got them handy. Thanks

I've seen and heard an N/A XR6 with the centre muffler removed and a straight pipe installed. This is not a good idea the car sounded disgusting. The sound has a really loud crackle to it like some four cylinders get. This bad sound is due to the twin cam head, no resonator and the exhaust gas running the full length of the car and hitting on the last muffler. The reason why the crackle doesn't happen on the XR turbo is because of the turbo in the system.

Welcome to the forum. First of all I must say that any exhaust mod to improve power will most definately increase noise.The cheapest upgrade you can perform on your new T will be to remove the centre muffler and install two straight pipes. This has been done and proven by the guys at zoom magazine to increase power approx 18hp. Do not get a 3" single system because it'll be too small. The volume of the standard twin system is larger. If you want a full system nothing under 3.5".

The bigger snorkle was not fitted to the non turbo sixs because the induction noise over three thousnd revs was deemed to be to loud. It was installed on the turbo because they believed that people would have more tollerance for noise on a performance car. Apparently on the dyno testing at ford the snorkle made 2kw difference at the flywheel for the n/a engines.

Northerly, sorry to hear about the scratches, probly some gelious SS driver. Don't muck around with getting only the scratached parts painted, respray the whole bonnet. Just painting the scratched area will most definately have a slight difference in colour no matter how good the painter is. Plus the bonnet being such a large flat surface it will be easy to pick the repair.

Yes its the rattle shims that the pad slides on that are replaced because they are to tight for the new seal design that gives you the great peddle feel and little roll back. The drag that the pads have on the rotor is only very slight, not something that you would notice by pushing your car. But this drag must be more than the AU brake because they didn't have such a big problem. I'm no brake guru or anything just passing on the info from a friend at ford and trying to get peoples minds thinking. dbasteve can you shed some light on this? Could this be just some crap that fords feeding us to keep us thinking that there on the job.

Sorry for the confusion, I'm not fitting the new pads and rotors to fix the problem. I'm fitting these new items to get better brake bite and reduce fade. The thinner shims are getting done today so this shudder problem wont happen with the new brakes.

I was just informed a couple of days ago that they have found the solutuion to this ongoing brake issue. The whole problem is the new seal design used around the pistons in the caliper. The new seals used on the BA are not allowing enough roll back on the piston which means the pads are rubbing on the rotor to much when brakes aren't applied. The solution is to replace the shims currently used in the caliper with thinner ones to increase clearance and skim the rotors. Whether this works or not I don't know time will tell.though wont make much difference to me because under great advice from dbasteve I've purchased a set of 4000 series rotors with after market pads.