Benny

Not a bad idea that. A friend of mine use to put 2ltrs (1 milk carton) into his STI each tank before you could get optimax, ultimate etc. I remember him saying that he use to put the tolulene in the tank at the servo before the fuel to make sure it mixed properly when filling the tank with unleaded.

I can't see the value in the car for $90k when you can buy a T spend $10k and have a car that's just as quick. I might change my mind though if I could see a list of things this DJR car is equipt with. There's no dought that these cars made buy Dick will be awesome but for $90k ?

Once the engine stops there's no oil or water being pumped through the turbo so it's just left sitting basking in its own heat. I certainly wouldn't be just switching the key off. Look after your turbo, its one of the main reasons these cars are so good.

Use meguires mag wheel cleaner as ducatijb suggested and then polish your wheels with car polish to help stop the brake dust from sticking.

That's exactly what I thought. I didn't think that the Traction control would be that sensitive between the standard XT tyre size and the size of the 18's, but guess it is. As for getting the wheels fixed. I got the tyres stripped off and took the rims to Promac Engineering 02 49568466 in Newcastle. They straighten the wheels if needed and remove any dings. Then the wheels are placed in a large lathe to make sure there straight. I was a bit worried about them getting scratched but they use special covers to prevent damage. It doesn't take a very large pot hole to ding 18's even with 40 psi in each tyre.

I just thought I'd mention this problem I had a couple of weeks ago with my traction control. I had to take my front two 18" alloys off to get buckles removed after my misses thought she'd aim for a few pot holes . So while the 18's were in for repair I fitted some standard 16" steel wheels from an XT. While driving on these wheels I noticed that every so often when accelerating the traction control light flashed and loss of power was experienced. The only thing that I could put this down to is the difference in rolling diameter from the front to the rear causing the traction control to think the the car was out of control. I have 235/40/18 rubber. When I re-installed the 18's on the front the problem went away. Which cancelled the idea I had that maybe and ABS sensor was playing up. So has anyone else got any theory as to what it may have been?

The most effective way that an RD will help you is relying on the signal reflections off a vehicle that is being radared in front of you. Or the speed check pulse that the HWP car uses to determine its speed. If your in the lead then it's most likely that your not going to get away with it.

I had my own detector for about 18 months until it broke it and I had a friends for about 6 months because I had to repair it. They are a great item to have in your car but highly illegal. I think the fine use to be around $1000 with no loss of points if it was handed over on the side of the road. If the car had to be impounded to find the detector the fine was doubled. It's most probably changed now. The one I had was a Bell detector with laser and radar function. Saved me a few times and never got caught. They can be still purchased over the net from WA.

Now I'm not one for following every letter of the law when modifying but this question still needs to be answered. Is this modification legal? Seeing that you are modifying the factory air box I'm pretty sure that this wont be liked when the boys in blue are handing out their party invitations.

As usual plonky is right. Turboing was designed to reduce costs and weight of building a performance engine. As plonky said when forced induction is applied to an engine with big cubes theres even more power to be had. A fine example is the people that enter the australian horse power heros most of the big contenders are running twin turbo V8's. I've seen 1200hp plus figures from a GTR 2.6 litre in japan just think of the potential the T has under the bonnet with 4 litres

I wonder whether it's got neons mounted to the bottom of the hull somewhere.

I'm with you mickq. If the intake temperature was to reach a temperature of such a proportion that it was to blister the paint on the intake plumbing then the car would have to be very close to detonation and losing a great deal of hp. I to think that it's under bonnet temps causing the blistering. Another way to prove this is to go for a spirited drive then stop lift the bonnet and feel the temperature differance between the plumbing before and after the intercooler.

Oh good I thought I was the only one that was experiencing this annoying scraping sound coming from the rear when driving beside another car or wall. I thought it might have been the rear rotors slightly warped.

All turbo engines require that after spirited driving or long trips that the car is idled for approx 1 min to pump fluid through the turbo bearings to cool it. Manufacturers choose not to install turbo timers from factory because cars are easier to steal when already idling.

I've had the problem if you happen to miss the start on the first turn of the key the car is struggling to kick over the next attempt. The car also sometimes at the lights drops revs like it's going to stall but then seems to pick back up. I haven't had any dangerous loss of power while driving yet thankfully. My car has the latest program in the ecu.

Smelling the fumes from an un-cated car is disgusting and very strong. If you start your car in the morning when the cats cold and then step behind it while its idling you'll get a slight taste of what its like. But imagine that smell when the cars at full noise. One way of telling that a car is missing its cat is that it'll blow flames between shifts when accelerating hard.

I don't have any squeeling happening yet but I've only got probably about 1500k on them. I've got fords brake fix done.

Yeah I've got the same springs 350mm front 355mm rear If you purchase springs that are as low as this then you'll have to trim the rear bump stop type device that's attached to the lower swing arm on the rear suspension. Ride isn't too harsh just right.

Mmm let me see how many have I used. Well one for every commo driver that I've blown away at the lights that would equal one, two, three ahhh theres too many to count. Lets just say several boxes.

You can buy Dry Ice from any BOC Gases outlet in pellet form.

I've got the same set up DBA 4000 with bendix ultimates. I have the same opinion as CRO awesome. But I didn't quite pay that much for the upgrade. Oh and if anyones thinking of doing the same be prepared for cleaning off alot of brake dust when using them heavily.

I've got Bridgestone SO-3's and I have to say that there the best handling tyre I've ever driven on. Standard issue on HSV, porsche and most HWP cars are suited up with them. I've driven on yokohama, goodyear, Marshalls(very bad), Michelins and SO3's better them all in the wet and dry. I get around 25k out of a set. Price is around $370ea

I have slotted rotors with Bendix Ultimates and 18" after market wheels. I haven't had the dust covers on since the car was new and never have any trouble getting the wheels off.

Uping the boost on your XR will definately void the warrenty. I don't think I'd like to run 1 bar through a standard intercooler might ping on a hot day, they are only a small cooler.

I know exactly what you mean. I could get my AU down to 6 litres in the tank safely. But with the BA I always seem to have 10 litres left even when driving for ages with the fuel light on.