Benny

Nice photo at Bar Beach.

Exactly what he said. Treat your car with respect. Flat changing will get you no where.

I've heard that this caliper is no bigger than the old one but has a slightly stronger mounting bracket and redesigned piston seals to allow more roll back.

32,500. It's great you can even mute the sound so everyone else in the office isn't wondering what all the noise is about.

Ah Ken, no one has spoken such words of wisdom. I'm with you all the way with that one. :banghead: Come on theres got to be someone out there that wants to contend this fact. Stop hiding

Police mode can be programed by your dealer but I'm quite sure it doesn't increase power.

This is great I needed something to do to pass the time before Knockoff.

If twin turbos is a must then the ultimate is to install an RB26DETT into the car. If a single turbo is what your after then get the VL turbo motor (RB30DET) and build it up. I wouldn't suggest getting an RB25DET or RB20DET because I've seen people do this and get minimal gain over the 3L VL motor. There's lots of different options, deciding which one will be the hardest.

I've had a very slow decline in oil level since I got the oil changed at 3k service. We put the car up on the hoist and found that oil was leaking through the rear main engine seal and dripping off the bottom of the Bell Housing. Off to ford to claim some more warranty.

I'd be guessing an independent rear 9" with a Holenger box.

I'm sure this sort of hp is definately not out of reach for a twin cam 4lt turbo but there would have to be alot of bottom end and drive line strengthening. I can't imagine this sort of hp being very useful in a rear wheel drive street driven car, it would be very uncontrollable. If anyone has been in an 800hp GTR you'll understand.

Greenstuff pads have been known to leave resin build up on slotted rotors. I think they might have fixed this with a new pad called Ultra Greenstuff. Dbasteve will be able to conferm this.

I too have heard that the Handbrake can remove the brake shoes from their mountings if used for stopping or turning. Definately not a good idea.

I have had dents removed from both my AU and my BA from people opening their doors into my car. Everytime that I have used this method of removing dents I've almost kissed the guy when I saw the job he'd done. It's definately something you should consider because I can't pick were it was dented no matter how hard I look.

I've seen the video to this and its amazing how every little kilo makes a difference when trying to get a fast 1/4mile time.

Got it in one vik. They would be the best place to get an exhaust because its been tested and proven to increase hp with a good sound to it.

I don't think that these piller mounted pods are illegal because they're not in the resticted vision area above the streering wheel. But correct me if I'm wrong Ponch, Curious. Probably the best place to go would be somewhere that stocks a couple of different model types. They may not be for the XR6T but surely you could get one that's close. Also try looking on the Autometer web site.

I'm not exactly sure what they are either but I'll have a go. I think they're light weight pullies for the motor, Alternator, AC etc. I don't think they're any smaller because that would increase the rpm of anything running off the belt. These sort of kits were made for the wrx and improved throttle response and hp. Correct me if I'm way off track.

I had problems with my car for the last week or two when reversing. I'd place the car in reverse and wait two seconds for it to drop into gear. The car would then start to roll back (level ground) as expected but when I applied throttle the car would seem to rev and then a loud clunk noise before the car would accelerate. :( So I took the car to ford and they put it up on the hoist to find that the fluid level in the box was over full by about 1/2 litre and there was engine oil dripping from the bell housing. After further investigation the box was declared faulty by BTR in Melbourne and a new one is on the way. As for the oil drip the rear main seal has to be done on the motor while the box is out. Just thought I'd post this up here so everyone can be aware of some more faults that are occuring. Can't wait for series II hopefully they'll fix most of the common problems eg brake shudder etc.

I think you'll find that those two lines on the bottom of the dyno graph are the before and after torque readings. The flatter and longer you can keep them running for the better.

With a direct fibre connection to the net at work with 100kb down load speed why use the net at home.

Throttle bodies are the same on turbo and n/a.

I don't think that the direction of the slots really matters too much. Correct me if I'm wrong. I think the main thing that governs the direction in which they have to rotate is the direction the vanes inside the rotor are angled. Installing the rotors wrong way round could effect cooling.

I've been told by several bike mechanics that it fouls the plugs because optimax isn't a very clean burning fuel. that's why I don't use it in my car. If you manage to get your hands on a BP Ultimate information booklet you'll see that it is a very clean burning fuel with less polution and soot. Its recieved some special award for its clean burn.

You could also try Yokohama Advan's they might also be a good option. I'm not sure of their price. I know a few people that run Nitto's and they're pretty happy with them.