Benny

Just looked up on the bridgestone site and the SO3's come in the following sizes. 205/55R15 205/50R15 205/55R16 215/55R16 225/55R16 205/50R16 225/50R16 245/45R16 205/50R17 215/45R17 225/45R17 235/45R17 215/40R17 235/40R17 245/40R17 255/40R17 245/45R18 225/40R18 235/40R18 245/40R18 225/35R18 255/35R18 265/35R18 285/30R18 245/35R19 275/30R19 255/35R20 285/30R20 Not sure how much the 19's cost but I get my 18's for $330ea.

I've tried so many different types trying to find a long lasting product that is easy to apply. I've been using Maguires High Gloss Gel and it is by far the best I've used yet. Armourall just doesn't last and paint on versions I've tried have been tar based which just flakes off and sticks to the car. Most car yards use this stuff called slick which is silicon based but usually comes off and leaves a grime like mist down the side of the car.

Ive got the SO3's which replace the SO2's and like I've said many times before they're the best tyre I've ever driven on. Get about 25k out of them but I'm sure you don't plan on having them for that long Geea.

Very impessive times, must be an animal to ride in. Does anyone know if there are any changes in minimum equipment for a ute once it brakes into the 10 sec bracket. Like with the sedan a roll cage and a few other things have to be added. This is why the orange APS sedan hasn't been raced again at the strip.

That is one simply awesome video. It's hard to comprehend the speed the car was doing around the track. Pitty there wasn't a speedo readout but from the looks of it most of the lap was between the 200-300km/h. Nurburgring is unbelieveable fast with some interesting hills and hollows.

If your getting blow by then it will be affecting your performance by reducing oxygen levels in the intake. Maybe considering an oil catch can would be a good idea. Not sure if anyone else on the forum runs one.

I've got King's SL's front and SSL's in the rear and the measurement between the centre cap and the guard is approx 345mm front and rear. This is only a guide line and may vary depending on the vehicle.

Chris if your looking for a really quick car for the'' twisties'' than you be hard pressed to find a better car than the 350 Z, the handling and braking of the Z track model is just superb, just add a Twin Turbo system then you'll have all of your wants/needs covered. Peter <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Couldn't agree with you more there Peter. A friend of mine traded his sti for a 350Z. I've driven both and would have to say that the 350 is one of the best handling rear wheel drive cars I've ever been behind the wheel of. I always thought you couldn't come close to the handling of an all wheel drive sti but the 350 does. Definately needs the TT set up though.

If you do decide to go with the 350Z or the Monaro in TT format are you still looking for the 11 second bracket? IMO I think you'll still have issues with traction and drive train with those cars aswell. When times start getting as low as 10 and 11 sec bracket alot of rear wheel drive cars are sporting some serious rubber or mini tubbing. I think you should go with the TT in either a 350Z or XR8 then put some big slicks under the rear.

I think it depends on the mod whether I'd tell the insurance company. Like if you've got a bigger fuel pump, injectors, cams and a custom edit then I wouldn't. But something like an exhaust, cooler, lowered etc then those sorts of things just can't be missed when it comes to assesing.

Why were they so much trouble. I might use different to the factory ones if they are better so need some feedback on different types and how they go or are the standard ones as good as anything else on the market. I would be thinking no. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Sorry for the "yuk" without explanation but I chose Bendix when I upgraded to 4000 series slotted rotors and after only a few hundred kilometres found the pads were breaking down under heavy braking (no track work) and transfering pad material onto the rotor giving me shudder again. The rotors were replaced and I ended up putting Ferrodo's in which I've had no trouble what so ever and less dust. Other people on these forums have had the same problem. If you want a set of near new Bendix for nothing then I've got them under the house.

If you go to after market performance pads there likely to squeel more due to the higher metal content. Bendix Ultimates "yuk" had those nothin but trouble.

It is good to see the cost coming down but what concerns me is the fact that in a double demerit points period you could get booked for 70 in a 60 zone twice and loose your licence. That's rediculous. Insurance companies better get use to insureing people that have had their licence suspended. No cop bashing here just a bad idea on the governments part I think.

Becareful who makes your system because as the guy said at the third place you went to the twin cam set up on the N/A BA can make a very raspy crackle tone if the system isn't designed correctly. Would be best to go with a proven system that you know exactly what it sounds like before purchase.

I'm not saying that your wrong bcr01 because I don't really know myself but don't bright reflective surfaces like crome reflect heat were as black seems to soak it up. Would be interesting to know if crome does create more heat under the bonnet though, anyone else know anything about this.

Driving in Sydney means you've gotta change your attitude to agressive rather than layed back and you've gotta guard you position in the traffic. The inside lane that is closest to the gutter that only opens up between packed cars is known as the express lane.

True.

Maybe it should include a driver training course and a couple of sets of tyres too.

If the HWP officer is using a laser gun then there would be no reason to chase you because he's most probably got a reading of your speed and getting ready to step out before you even see that he's there. If you live in Western Sydney then it seems acceptable to just mow him down.

If you take a look at the road next time you pull up a Red Light Camera you'll see a thin lined box visible in the tar just past the stop line. In this box is a coil that detects metal objects ie your car, if the Red Light system detects your vehicle cross this coil while the light is red then the camera well be activated. So if your in the intersection but arn't in the vasinity of the stop line area then all is ok.

and I can't think of many places where you can get a house for $250k these days.

If anyone wants to travel to Newcastle then they can use my G-Tech Pro Competition.

Exactly what happened to me Cro. Now I run those exact pressures with good tyre wear and still handles really well.

GT TT is definately the way to go IMO. In the old days the answer to big hp was cubic inches and then there was the big influx of smaller motors with forced induction. Now we all know the best option is to have both cubic inches and forced induction hand in hand. The only limit you have is the size of the engine bay to fit it all in and APS's kit has really got it going on with the low mounted turbo's. I'd say alot of time and engineering is being put in to make it a reliable kit that will really put a smile on your face. The only down side I can see with the TT is the cost, it will definately cost alot more to chase the bigger hp figures if strengthening the motor comes up further down the track. Insurance could surely be obtained through Just Cars in Melboure or Shannons but at a price.

Or you'll be stuck watching Teletubbies or the Wiggles. Hi Five isn't too bad though.