Benny

There's a few people here from Newcastle including me. There isn't many places in Newcastle I believe that have enough experience with the T to work on them. Fitting upgraded parts etc is fine but when it comes to tuning I'd take it to Sydney.

Don't know whether this one has been seen by you guys yet but I thought I'd post it up.

If you do go for bigger wheels then yes it is going to use up valuable kw to turn them. But if you choose to go with an expensive leight weight wheel designed for racing then the extra effort needed to turn them is going to be minimal. If you choose to opt for a wider tyre combination then my advice would be to select a quality tyre that is going to disperse the extra water trapped under the wider tyre when it's raining. If you do plan on pushing out larger amounts of power and have trouble keeping traction then a wider combination on the rear would probably be best.

Such a pitty to see an amazing piece of engineering go to waste. You would surely be crying tears of blood if you were the owner.

Benny, Whiteline have done a truckload of research on the BA.. in particular the turbo.. if you dig around their website they even have footage of the T with one of their kits on it... all this leads me to think they know a bit about suspension for the BA... I believe there was a lot of discussion on these forums some time ago... hit the good ol search button... Cheers, Miyagi <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Sorry didn't mean imply that Whiteline haven't got the experiance. Just if the kit is installed by someone other than them, what sort of settings are used and are they the right settings for a good handling car.

I think the mistake alot of places make is they think it's ok to set the wheel alignment to a standard setting issued for that certain make of car. I had this done to my car for a little while and couldn't stop the excessive tyre wear. Now I take my car to Pedder's and they have all my settings written down. All car's are different and need the settings played with for a few thousand k's to achieve the correct adjustments. Try going somewhere that is willing to get your car right and not just throw in a generic setting and take your money.

Having all this equipment is no doubt a great idea but finding the correct settings for each car and driving conditions could be time consuming. What would be ideal is finding someone that has experience in the suspension setups for the BA and knowing what adjustments need to be made to get a car that handles well and is comfortable to drive at speed. My experience is some places that do do suspension work don't really have a passion for it and the adjustments that are made don't really work as well as they should.

I'd put on whatever tyre you don't want anymore because they'r going to cop some heavy wear racing round the track.

I'm running 41 in the front and 37/38 in the rear. You need a higher pressure in the front to combat tyre roll and wear on corners. I run lower in the rear because at 41 they are difficult to get traction when launching.

Just heard some info that the new auto gearbox will have a function called Winter Mode. This prevents the gearbox from changing up through the gears when the rear wheels have broken traction. From what I can understand the computer detects the speed of the front wheels and references them to the rears. This prevents the car from up shifting when wheels are rotating too fast for the vehicles overall speed.

Porsche 1, Bird 0. Lucky it came through in the middle of the car otherwise the driver could have ended up with a pigeon chest.

This reminds me of a video I saw for an Opencut induction I did up in the Hunter Vally. It showed how easily a 300tonne truck can run over a Landcruiser like it's a road marker. Quite amazing how a 2 tonne 4WD can flatten out so quickly.

NRMA will allow a vehicle to be lowered no more than 30mm. If you lower your car without telling them then you can be quite sure they will spot the different coloured springs very easily when it comes time for a claim and then you'll be in some hot water. If you are purchasing SL's and SSL's then I'd suggest you tell them that the car is only lowered 30mm not 50mm. When it comes time for a claim they will see different coloured springs as they already know but if the car has been damaged badly then it maybe quite difficult for them to identify whether they are 30mm or 50mm lowered depending how thorough they want to be. In the end it's all up to you with the risk you take.

They've probably found a week point in the driveline and they're going to recall all cars and reduce their power to 100kw's via the PCM.

Hmm thanks for the info guys. Gives me a little more to think about.

I have two Icom units which work really well but are a little more expensive compared to Uniden and other brands. Can't complain about Uniden either as I've got one of their Bearcat Trunk Scanners which I've had no problems with at all.

Don't mean to hijack here but has anyone considered an LCD instead of a Plasma because I'm trying to decide between the two. Just the thought of spending $4k on a Plasma that is said to have a life span of approx 7yrs bothers me.

However many loop holes there are in this new system I'm sure young people will find them. There's nothing to say you can't drive an M3 and they are a car with some amazing performance.

Not all XR's have the ability to put these globes in, only ones optioned with Premium Sound I believe. The power source globe is only in from factory if you get the smokers pack, why they do this is probably to save money.

I had the same problem with mine, they changed the belt under warranty and the noise has gone completely. It isn't a timing belt just a belt to run the auxiliary components like water pump etc

That exactly what it's going to take to get a T into the 9's. Big Tubs and Wheely Bars.

The fastest time run by an Australian GTR which was GTR700 at 8.27 I think. Cars I don't think can be compared once modified, must be from factory. The price you'll pay for a good quality GTR R34 is well above what you'll pay for an XR6T so I don't think they're in the same category.

I use to have a BEL 615sti mounted in my old AU which was capable of getting laser as well as normal radar. It came in handy quite a few times and yes paid for itself in no time at all. This unit was undetectable when first released but it doesn't take long for the police to upgrade their technology and render the unit detectable. I used mine in NSW around the central coast for about 18 months and was never caught, but I would put that down to mainly city driving and luck. I know very few people that have detectors these days (other than truck drivers) and I don't think the police use their RDD's around built up area's often.

You could probably get one made out of polished alumimum for $150. Seems expensive like alot of herrod things.

I had a similar problem when my car was cold with a squeek coming from the front of the engine. I tried spraying a little lube on the pulleys near the bearings but couldn't get rid of it. Took it to Ford and they replaced the belt under warranty and I haven't heard the squeek since.