Benny

The F6 I believe has a slightly different angle at which the turbo is mounted so this may mean the dump on the F6 is slightly different in the casting. Looks the same from the pics but I can't be 100%. Someone may be able to give more detail. Benny

Yes it'll be tramp. Mine does it if I deliberately try to give full throttle in 1st to provoke wheel spin. Mine stops once in second. Not good for the driveline and I usual back straight off if it happens, horid sound. Benny

It's practically the same as the FG F6 exhaust. Benny

I stand corrected. Sorry for the incorrect info. Amazing that they are still using an imperial thread for the wheel studs. Benny

With the standard power reading you got of 220rwkw from the dyno you go to then I'd think that on your standard GT3576 your max power might end up around the 310rwkw mark. To reach 330rwkw on that dyno I think you might need the larger turbo. You will sacrific some bottom end but gain quite a bit more up top. All depends where you want your power really. Do you want the 3576 that's an animal up to 140kph then levels off a little or something that just keeps pulling above that. If so then the GT3540 might be what you're after. Benny

The way I ran my FG in was to not drive at the same revs for lengthy periods, don't redline or rev limit the engine but make sure you exercise the it with good squirts of acceleration now and then. Just exercise the car and use it's potential without leaning on it too hard. Everyone seems to have there own methods and all the cars I've owned have seemed happy with my approach so I'll keep using it. Enjoy the new ride. Benny

Have you tried bending the handle on the spanner to make it slide between the turbo and manifold rather than hit the housing? Or even have a look at a ratchet spanner with fine tooth gearing. Benny

I think your best source of info would be the Ford Australia Forums as there are all sorts of Fords over there with various mods. But if you think about the basic combustion engine principle of more air in and and more air out equals more horsepower then it's simple. If you want cheap and don't want forced induction then I'd say cold air intake with filter, pacemaker headers with exhaust to start with. Then when funds permit port and polish head, fit some cams and a Nitrous Kit. Benny

Yeah it's got me thinking. I'm due for new pads so I'll have to inspect mine. Yeah I doubt Matt would have an upgrade part but maybe replacement seals. Benny

Yeah caliper hasn't changed since AUII. Might pay to give Matt at Race Brakes a call and see what he can supply. Benny

They're metric so M12 x 1.5 I'm pretty sure. Benny

Might be a good idea to discuss with an Engineer with experience in this area as race seats I'm pretty sure need to be engineered to be installed in a car. Benny

Worm has got the right idea. Should easiler see over 300rwkw with those mods. If you want more consistant power in hotter weather then add an intercooler later on. I wouldn't waste your money on a full exhaust unless you plan on installing a larger turbo. Benny

Looks great and nice choice with the brakes and wheels. Wouldn't mind doing that to mine. Benny.

Don't think off the overall power reading as every dyno is different. Some read low and some read high. Look at the power gain as that will give you a better indication of your progress. Mine made 253 stock and 280 with just a tune so your gain looks about right. Benny

Yeah they'll fit. Benny

Tocchi that is one tough car. Benny

I think what Henz has suggest would be the most cost effective path with the best results. I think sourcing the parts seperately rather than purchasing a kit means you can get exactly what you need rather than something that you don't. This tends to happen with kits. Dump pipe and cat is all you need for exhaust mods and $5k should easily get you over 300rwkw's. Benny.

Darcati, It would be hard to just sit back and let them bend you over and I completely understand how your felling and thinking. If you have the time and money then by all means dig your heals in and give it to them. It looks as though they have done there best to scare you by sending you an e-mail from their solicitor in hope you will walk away. I guess the decision is with you. If you decide to take them on then legal advice might be a good start for you. Whatever you decide good luck and let us know how you go. Benny

What valve springs does it have? They need upgrading from factory. Also look at a fuel pump upgrade, possibly surge tank. With a good custom tune then your T5 may struggle. Benny

Tocchi, That is some serious offset and wheel widths. Crazy stuff. Benny

Well written Bomber. I still use a complete factory intake and air filter so +1 for no Growler intake. Benny.

Darcati, I think the question you need to ask yourself is do you plan on keeping the car factory and with no modifications or do you want to mod in the future? If you aren't going to mod then take it back to Ford and stick it to them. If you plan on adding mods and making your car really amazing (hint hint) then I'd save yourself the pain and take it straight to Tunehouse. You'll drive out of there with a huge smile on your face, just experienced much better service than Ford will ever offer and never take your car back to Ford in the future. Benny

I believe the BF N/A has 298 front rotors and the turbo has 322 front rotors which are both ventilated. If you got 98000ks from your rotors then great work that's plenty of k's. If I was you I'd invest in DBA rotors rather than RDA and some good pads. I use DBA 4000's and Ferodo pads which are great for spirited street use. Benny

A tune for sure. Best bang for buck you can buy. FG GT lower airbox and snorkle is what you want. Don't install an exhaust on the standard turbo as it flows plenty enough once a high flow cat is installed. Benny