Benny

I don't think it should be glowing after a casual drive with no boost. But in saying that if your oil or water lines were blocked you'd have a failed turbo in a very short amount of time. How long has it been doing it. Can you get access to a temp gun and take some readings? Benny

Still factory valve springs in mine. But all engines are different so you'll have to see how you go. Only way to know is either remove them and test them or tune on the dyno and see. Benny

I'd say I get the same amount of k's out of the DBA rotors as stated above but the way I see it is if you want a good friction co-efficient then the rotor surface shouldn't be too hard. Maybe I'm wrong I don't know. Benny.

That is just insane. I thought my RC truck was fast. How does he see it in the sky? Benny

I'm guessing it's an XR6T? What model? Surely everyone here can tell you the important things to look at and listen to. If all else fails don't buy it. Don't let the seller presure you into something that may not be right for you. Benny

Mine was running around 12psi with tune only and no other mods. Currently running 15/16 tapering off up top with current mods. Benny.

They look different. Any other improvements other than the different slot design? Benny

If it's the tick I think your descibing it's all fine. Your 6 injectors are really just a bunch of little solenoids all opening and closing at the specified time to deliver fuel to the engine when required. The Ford 6 is quite loud with regards to the injectors firing. Benny

What track were you at? Your rotors should be fine. I've run my car at Wakefield and with Ferodo pads with great results. But something to know is there are two different types of Ferodo. The Thailand specials and then the proper Italian made ones. I'd suggest changing your pads to either DS performance or DS2500's which are the Italian made ferodos. They will perform substantially better. My DBA 4000's have had hairline cracks in them for close to two years and still perform great. Getting quite worn now and ready for replacement though. Benny

This rubber joiner split on my car but lucky enough I didn't get the fault code. Might have something to do with my tune. I tried to get the rubber joiner from Ford but you can't buy the joiner without the factory plastic pipe bend apparently. This was gonna cost $90 bucks which I thought was rediculous. I managed to get a joiner off ebay and fitted some better hose clamps, has been working a treat. Benny

dnb, With a tune you will see your injectors max out around the 270-280rwkw mark. Add some injectors and you should get close to 300rwkw. My expoerience is that with 300rwkw my car was very quick 0-100 with great response and still able to maintain decent traction at low speed. Venturing over the 300rwkw figure with an intercooler and dump pipe with cat has made my car quite a bit stronger up top but very difficult to get off the line cleanly. Benny

Interesting post Hiddeous. So the issue might be a boost leak of some sort causing that fault code? Benny.

Any sort of mod that'll increase air flow to get your turbo to spool quicker will do the job. A good strong tune will help too. Then you'll be searching for traction hi and low. Benny

Ben,Who is the Aust distributor and do they stock them on the shelf? Thanks, Benny

Always wondered how these would go. Where did you get them? Benny

I think the main reason for changing the oil more regularly in these turbo Falcons is to stop the oil feedline filter blocking. Your oil quality and life is going to depend highly on how you drive your car and how hot the oil gets. I've decided myself that I will continue to use the 15w40 LPG Ford suggests but change it every 5000ks. Obviously the better the quality of oil and the more you change it the better protection you have but you have to find a happy medium. Benny

There are many differing opinions on correct tyre pressures and it really comes down to how you drive, what power you are making and what your preference is. Personally I use to run 42 front and 38 rear (cold) and found that under full temp they were increasing by approx 5psi each. This was making the car rough over the road surface and it seemed to have less grip. I now run 40 front and 36 rear (cold) to allow some increase with temp and this has improved grip I believe. I run lower temps in the rear to try to improve traction. I think each person should try varying pressures as see what suits their driving and car. Benny

If you want to fit turbo brakes to an N/A then the caliper bracket will need to be bought from the turbo model to mount the caliper to. As you would expect the caliper is required to be moved further out from the hub to accommodate the larger diameter turbo rotor. Benny

Only differnce is rotor size. On the turbo the front rotors are 322mm and caliper is the same. Benny

Brian please take some photos and give us a full briefing on your experience. Benny

That sounds like a good day Jaf especially with a boat like that. Need to get it happening before it gets too cold. Benny

Simply amazing piece of engineering at one of the best circuits in the world. Great watch. Where is Brian? He'll like this. Benny

I've got some Pirelli P Zeros at the moment which have been a great tyre but not cheap at $550 a corner for 19's. With the amount of torque the FG makes at low revs it's very hard to find a street tyre that will hook up. Mine still spins with the RE55S semi's I have in the garage fitted. There is quite a few threads on this forum about what tyres are good so a search will help you decide. If you have 18's it's going to make fitting some semi's much easier and cheaper. If you are looking for 19's then my suggestions would be Goodyear Asymetrical or Bridgestone RE001. Benny

With an increase of 72rwkw you've done very well. I'm sure you're loving the new power. Over the coming cold months you'll find yourself searching high and low for traction. Make sure you post some pics of your beast. Benny