Benny

The Terry would be a big step back in performance from the F6. Is that the road you wanna take? New Terry would be nice and all with a turbo diesel but I think a Series II FG would be worth waiting for. Mmm GT. Benny

So when you threw a rod you damaged the bottom end as well? If you're buying a new block and fitting the bottom end you bought to it then it should be fine, if what you bought is ok. What year engine is it? If you're rebuilding an engine then you may as well use forged components rather than oem parts. Benny

Looks great. I'll have to keep an eye out for ya round the area. Benny.

Exactly what I was thinking. They should've come down not up.Benny

I'm certainly no expert on the new GT but from research and seeing what's been done so far not a lot is needed to net big gains. If it was me I'd probably look at an intercooler setup and tune for starters. If using the KPM gear that will be a little over the $5k mark once an Xcal and custom tune is done. Then maybe an exhaust and bigger rubber for the rear down the track. Benny

Sounds like a boost leak but for it to happen in bursts of 2 a second sounds strange. Have you checked your piping and joiners? Benny

Gurks, If it isn't doing it often then I'd suggest waiting until it becomes more frequent and then take it to a transmission place and have them experience the issue. I think the job of converting to a 6 speed would be a lot more work than if you just got a built 4 speed. If you do get the box rebuilt then take it to someone reputable and they will make it plenty strong enough. Cost can vary with what you want done to the box, standard rebuild will start from $1800 and up to 3.5k with the works, high stall and cooler etc. A quick search in the search field for "auto rebuild" will give you plenty of threads on the old BTR. Example below. Regards, Benny.

Bit hard to tell from your explanation. Is the car modified, does it shift ok or is it flaring? The BTR transmission fitted to the BA is not a strong box and is really at it's maximum capability even with mild mods. If it is toaste then a rebuilt auto with a good trans cooler would be fine. Benny.

You need to talk with DBA Steve if he's still with the company. I've had issues with DBA rotors quite a few years ago now and they replaced them free of charge. I thought DBA Steve was a member on here but haven't seen him around in quite a while. Benny.

Until they are better value for money then they are going to continue to sit there. Benny.

Free factory fitted option in the FG but I'm pretty sure the BA doesn't do it. You'd think if it was a fuel filter, pump or cat issue the car would struggle at WOT. Maybe one of the tuners here might be able to help. Benny.

I've been very happy with my 4000's and Ferodo pads but if you want to do track work then bigger rotors, 4 or 6 piston calipers and unfortunately different wheels is required. If you want any of this gear then I'd suggest contacting Matt at Race Brakes, Sydney. He sold me all my brake parts for every car I've owned and at great prices. Benny

Just about any wheel should fit over the PBR rears. I think a 17inch wheel with Mickey Thompson ET Streets would fit the bill. Benny

Totally agree with your comments around the power delivery and gear shifts. When I drove the GT I had the same thoughts. Wasn't as fast but power to the road and sound was awesome. I'll be looking closely at swinging to the V8 when the FGII comes out. Benny.

Tread designs of Michelins are nearly always a boring looking pattern but doesn't seem to effect their performance. Same goes for Pirelli. Interesting how the price of the new Pilot Sports has reduced significantly compared to the previous PS2's. Benny.

I'm sure it could be done but what are you going to use to control boost and will it communicate with the cars factory ecu? Benny.

As said above it's really personal prefernce as both boxes are great and have their own advantages. I'd suggest test driving both and deciding from what you feel is best for what you want to use the car for and where it's going to be driven mostly. Myself I prefer the auto as I can drive it as a manual or leave it in D for heavier traffic. I was a manual man only before having a ZF but now I've experinced such a good auto I'm converted. The auto shifts great and is much easier to keep traction between gears when making bigger power. As for noise in my opinion the FG auto makes a nice "Brrrp" noise when shifting which is good. Benny

What turbo are you running? If it's an OEM turbo then it wont seal between the turbine and wastegate sides even if you have a gasket and dump with the middle section. This will result in exhaust gas leaking constantly down the screamer pipe to atmosphere. Also a "Bleed Valve" sounds concerning. Has the car ever been tuned on the dyno? I'm guessing it still runs the factory CPU if the X3 is being used. Benny

All depends how loud it is really. There is induction noise but hissing within the cabin I would say not really. Is it possible that the previous owner had a boost gauge and has removed it and left the tube disconnected in the cabin? Just a suggestion. I'd try to find this hissing noise in the cabin then if that's where it is loudest. Benny

I've got a Savage Flux HP Brushless Monster Truck with a bucket load of mods running 6S Lipo batteries. Awesome fun and heaps too much power. Benny

The last time I had a really loud sucking noise was when the rubber joiner to the throttle body had split. I'd be checking for a boost leak. Is the car performing as you think it should? Benny

Looking good Tocchi. Big tyre on the front, what does it look like from top down? Does that size on the front clear everything at full lock? What sort of clearance is on the inside? Thanks, Benny.

You wont need two turbos either. One should do fine, just make it a good one. T04Z seems popular from reading around here or even a modified factory 3582R. Benny.

I'd be interested to hear what NRMA say if you tell them about the intercooler. I have a friend who had a car insured with APIA and when he told them he had different wheels and suspension they expressed posted him a cancelation of his policy. Hopefully NRMA are more accommodating. I'd be telling them you were thinking of buying one and would they cover the additional modification. Benny

My last tune which was probably 18 months ago had the torque reduction on shifts removed and has been working happily ever since. I'm sure it's there to portect the box but I had it removed due to me not liking the delay between shifts. Has made the car shift firmer but isn't kind on traction. Benny.