Benny

This might get you started. Benny.

Were you after pics of the cooler and piping with the front of the car off or of it after everything is back together? Or did you just want the turbo intake area? Benny.

Your choices for Newcastle are Blacktrack or a place at Sandgate called PBE. My opinion is take your car to Sydney, that's what I've done. Benny.

Great work Dillz, nice write up. Benny.

Found the answer so I'll post the info incase someone searches for this in the future. The bosch number is 0 280 156 383. Regards, Benny.

Hi All, Just wondering if anyone can confirm the Bosch number written on the side of the factory FG XR6T injectors. I have some injectors here and want to double check they are definately from an FG XR6T. Thanks, Benny.

If you give Matt from Race Brakes a call I'm sure he could help out. Benny.

I think you'll be a happy man with those mods. Until later when you want more power and a bigger turbo, lol. Benny.

Removing the centre muffler will do little if anything for the power you're looking for. It's a straight through design and removing it will only make your car louder. I'd do the cat long before removing the centre muffler. Benny.

If you only want slight mods with reasonable power then I'd say just get some injectors and a tune. I had a gain of 46rwkw from stock and the car was very quick 0-100 with this done. I'd predict you'll find that the FG will feel much quicker than your old BA even with 326rwkw due to the awesome bottom end grunt they have. If you want more consistancy when the weather warms up then fit a bigger cooler but the standard one will work ok up to 300rwkw. Benny.

Depending on the dyno and your tuner you should be able to get around 40-50rwkw gain with just tune and injectors. If you want consistancy with your power when the weather gets warmer then a bigger intercooler is what you need. Then to reach the limit of the turbo a high flow cat or dump and cat should be able to get another 30-40rwkw. No need to change the hole exhaust as the centre and rear mufflers are straight through and provide little restriction for the factory turbo setup. No need for a larger fuel pump unless you want to change to a bigger turbo. Some tuners may want to change valve springs as well but you'll have to see what your tuner wants. Benny

High flowing it will allow it to make more power but you will suffer a little with less bottom end. You should be getting the wategate ported as well. The after market oil supply screen is a must I believe. This will allow you to clean it on a regular basis to prevent blockage. You should also be changing your oil and filter every 5-7000ks. Benny.

Sounds about right to me. They usually run about 8-9psi. I think you need a tune. Benny.

Cheapest option would be to rebuild but if you want big power then the above turbos would be the go. A rebuild can cost anywhere between $800 and $1800 depending on who does it and how much work needs to be done to repair the turbo. Benny.

Stick with the wheels you have now and put some real good tyres on them if you want grip. If you go 19's then it'll be harder to get grip, cost more for tyres but look better. I run 19's for daily driving but also have a set of 18's with RE55S semi slicks for grip that I can chuck on for special occasions. You can fit 9.5 inch rims under the back if you would like to go that way. Just need the right offset to fit them under. Benny.

What have you used that chewed the rotors in 5000ks? I've always used Ferodo DS series pads with excellent fade resistance. Rotors and pads last about 40000k. Fair bit of dust though. Heard many using Hawke Ceramic lately which might be an option for you. Little dust apparently. Benny.

You need spring compressors. About $40 from Supercheap or the like. Benny.

What pads were you using O2sucka and how many k's in the 6 months? Benny

The slow take off would have nothing to do with the belt. Would have to be a something with the trans, but what that is I don't know. Benny.

Would be interesting to see a dyno graph comparison between the two when you're done.

From my experience turbos don't generally make a one off squeek when the car is shifting gears, usually a continuous squeel or howl when boosting. My old BA use to every now and then give a squeek when shifting at high rpm from belt slip. I'm no expert but might be something for you to consider. Benny.

You sure it's the turbo? Could be belt slip when shifting at high rpm. Does it happen as you accelerate or just when you change gear? Benny

+1 for Tunehouse. I've been more than happy with Jim and his teams' service. I'll be taking all my future cars their for tuning and servicing. Benny.

Looking great now it's lowered. Thanks for the pics, good to see some of the underside. Benny.