Boog72

Heres pics of some parts of the install in my rspec The soundskins made a huge difference to the sound quality. I also used the spacers from supercheap just to get the speakers off the door with the stinger rings and backing pad behind the speakers attached to the soundskins on the inner door panel. I ended up biffing the kicker cx 300.4 and 600.1 went with the Alpine X series A70F and A70M mono amp to keep it all alpine. The Rockford DSR1 unit has been awesome and the sound is clear and doing the job.

Followed same wiring as Keith and the system sounds great. Alpine premium x splits in the front and same coaxials in the rear doors. Wiring in the kick panels from the icc to the rockford dsr1 (loc and dsp unit) which feeds the signals to a kicker 600.4 amp for the coaxials and kicker 300.1 for the pioneer 12" sub. All time alignment done and a rockford plc switch to control the sub level. All controlled via my phone. Bit of resonance in the cabin and vibration so ordered a mega pack of soundskins sound deadening to take care of that. Will put up pics once it is all done. Thanks to Keith for this thread as I wouldn't have done it with out it. The GT system cranked first pop but will feel better once the deadening is done. Cheers Tim

Thanks Keith. Hopefully I'll have it cranking this week. Cheers bud!

Hi Keith, Just about to do a system upgrade on my 2012 GT Rspec (many years procrastination on doing it to the GT as I swore I'd keep the stereo stock, but im over the stock system so here goes!). Just wanted to say thanks for putting this thread up. The time and effort you've put in helps out heaps. With your pics and wiring descriptions it will hopefully make my job so much easier! The Rspec being a Series II FG looks like it comes with the same wiring colours as the FGX. (fingers crossed!!) I have already installed a set of Alpine X Premium 6 1/2" Splits in the front and the Coaxial versions in the rear doors (Ps. No spacers required either, nice shallow design). They are hooked up and the wiring colours you provided were an exact match to my GT... all working off the ICC at present. I am ready to finish off the rest of the system using a Rockford DSR1 DSP unit (already flashed it - in Universal mode ie no CANBUS/ T harness). This will be my LLC and set on High Level input, and I will be connecting my 2 amps (Kicker 4x100W for the Front splits and Rear speakers ) and (Kicker 1x600W - Sub duties). Question:) When you connected your speaker cables which send the sound from the amp in the boot to the Front speakers, are the tweeters in the A Pillars receiving that same "amplified or powered signal" as well (eg: the factory tweeter wiring running from A Pillars eventually joins into the Front Door speaker wiring or...... are they connected via 2 independent channels from the ICC? Yeah dumb question I know, but my last FG install I done was back in 2010 on my 2008 FG XR6T Ute (ZX 750.1 Kicker mono, ZX 400.4 Kicker 4 CH amplifier, Bit 10 processor Focal Speakers and 2 x 12" Kicker subs, and back then there was very little information at all on how to upgrade so I am getting back up to speed and making sure there is no weird stuff going on behind the dash on the Series II ICC?.... The Alpine X Splits come with small individual crossovers (the tweeter Crossover box is compact enough to fit behind the A Pillar covers nicely). I've connected it same as your fathers' but mines got the crossover connected between the tweeter and the factory plug that originally plugged into the factory tweeter). Also just wanted to see how stereo is going as I know its been some time since you posted your thread and if there has any thing that might assist me further. Hope your father's still cranking it and once again great job! Fingers crossed I'll have it finished this week. Got boxes to construct and amps and wiring to install and hide. Will chuck pics up once done!! Cheers Tim

Great write up bud. Had to do a HIM changeover yesterday. Had the problem of the Heater/ Aircond fan staying on after you turn the ignition off. Started at 10am and finished at 8pm. All works a treat.

Yep we all love the lump of a cammed v8, would be good to get it in our coyotes however it's just not worth the hassle and simply not needed. Yes the sound of a worked V8 sounds awesome however I do love the feeling of sitting beside an angry sounding v8 and whilst it's working hard to try and match...I'm sitting back with air cond on and leaving them for dead at the lights or at speed. They are one of the easiest motors to gain power, a good exhaust and great tuner who really knows their sh*t is all it takes. And all this whilst getting excellent fuel economy than standard.

I might be grasping at straws, check the inner plastic guards as well, little plastic clip could have broke, therefore the plastic wheel arch guard is flapping!

Hi All, We purchased a 2011 FG XR6 last year through a Ford dealership in Brissy (had 22000kms on the odo). When my missus took it for a test drive she drove it out of the dealership and got out on the road, pulled up at the first set of lights and whilst in Drive with foot on the brake the idle went very rough to the point it would almost stall. She spoke to the salesman sitting beside her that there is something wrong with this car and that she didn't want this one. He stated the normal 'well fix that, it won't be a problem'. The missus was ok with this. Took delivery of the car and this time I was with her. I drove the car out of the dealership and it done the same thing at the same set of lights. I took the car straight back and told them there was a problem with it and booked it in. Diagnosis was low volts code came up so they put a new battery in it. Within a week it done it again. Took it to another dealership....couldn't find the fault and no codes. Spoke to the dealership and they said it just needs a good drive with good fuel! Our cars have run only on BP ultimate or 95 and it still has the same fault. I drove the car from Brisbane to Perth (to give it a good run) and it is still doing it. After 2 months of its last visit to a dealership I took the car to the nearest Ford dealership here in Perth and they couldn't find a fault or get it to run rough on cold start or under normal conditions. Took it to another dealership and they finally found that there was a problem with the car. Thoughout this process I have the CRC involved in our case and the dealership we are dealing with now have been very patient and trying everything to find out what it is. We carried out a carbon clean, replaced coil packs, checked PCV valve, checked all vacuum lines for leaks, all sensors checked, inlet manifold removed, had all the injectors flow tested, checked timing gears and tone wheel to see if a tooth has broken and timing chain has skipped a tooth, checked solenoids to see if they were gunked up, identified it's not a bodgy diaphram in the brake booster as it only does it now and then!! The dealership has no other option but to remove the head to see if there is a sticky valve or problem with it seating however Ford CRC have advised me that they "don't pay for the removal of the head".....so I have to wear the cost of $1800 to remove the head...all of which will not guarantee we will find the issue. I am at wits end with this. I am in the position that we shouldn't have to pay for anything as the car was defective from the day we purchased it. The warranty ran out in July 2014 however the car has been in the shop and had the case open prior to the warranty running out so it is still covered for this problem. Most occassions the car runs beautiful, it is regularly serviced, never thrashed hard and is the 3rd FG we have owned. Admittedly it is the 1st n/a XR6 we have owned as the last one was a FG XR6T ute which ran flawlessly. Has anyone had the same issue with intermittent rough idle and had it fixed??? Cheers Tim

Itchin to see what power levels are achieved...and stroker kit, cams etc It would have to sound very special. If you need a donor R Spec in Brisbane....drop me a line!! hahaha... Seriously!!!

Mate that colour looks awesome!!!