Jimmyone

You got the spline that goes into the box then the uni joint then (the problem) there a join that's held together with six bolts and only three curved shaped washers.

Should the bolts at the diff end of the drive shaft tighten?

Thanks Smoke, I'll pull it out and have a look.

Thanks, at least I know for certain now. Second time round should be easier anyway.

Not while I was taking it out. Pulled it off to get it back in though and I still found it difficult. Just unbolt the bell housing from the motor and drop right? No need to touch the bell housing/transmission bots?

is there some technique to getting the box out/in the last couple of inches or is it just one of those boxes that was never meant to be easy

Got to pull it out and have a look to know I assume.

What do you mean by distorted?

It is an Exedy. It could only be fitted one way the spring mechanism sticks out an inch or so on one side. Bleed it again full presser in the pedal now, no difference however.

Bleed the clutch well unless bubbles have a tendency to get stuck I would think that they are out. Pulled it home with the bolts probably the last cm or two

that would be Shifts.

The clutch feels pretty close to normal and it sh*ts through the gears with the engine off easily.

Hi Guys I just finished putting a new clutch in my ba xr6t series 2 and now I cant get it in gear. Had it in gear when I first started (with new clutch in)it then put it in neutral and now it won't go back. Makes a hi pitched squeak almost a whistle when I try. Anyone got some knowledge they want to throw my way?

Ok so I'm up for a new clutch in my ba xr6t mkll and I've been quoted $850 just for the parts (Clutch and slave). After having a look around the intraweb it seem I can probably do an upgrade for about the same price. So if any has some suggestions or has been throught the process already and has some advice I'd be grateful. Thanks Jimmyone

Thanks guys, I'll check them out.