rockafellqeinstien

Boost69, How long does it typically take for the shudder to come back after you machine or replace the rotors. DO you see hot spots on the rotors? On my stock ones I could see shinny hot spots in the middle of the contact area the whole way around - In my case I am sure it wasnt warped but these "spots" causing me issues. Regarding the bushes, I think the worst they could do is magnify an existing problem otherwise new rotors would shudder also. I went with cheap rda slotted and have almost 10,000 km of hard kms since replaced at 100,000 and no shudder yet. but at least they only cost me $400 which wasnt that much more than machining. I think the bedding in process could have something to do with starting the shudder problem. I did it exacty per the article in one of the shudder threads and all is good (something like 8 firm but not 100% slow downs from 80kmph - no stoping and then easy for 300km). I have done some 200kmph stops and all fine although the brake smell is very noticable

Wind-powered car goes down wind faster than the wind I spent an hour going through all this stuff and it does work out. I was going to try to explain it but then you wont have the joy of figuring it out yourself and wasting your morning like me.

Jus a quick update for anyone with an FG. I replaced my 4 rotors with RDA slotted (for a bit over 400 bucks) and the improvment was huge! I used to get mucho brake shudder (ok I had 100k + on the oriuginal rotors).very cheap upgrade I found that the rears were the bigest culperit at speeds less than 100kmh (I replaced these first) but slowing from 100+ caused the fronts to get some very bad vibrations happening. All good now (new good quality pads on the front also) but I need to do the brake fluid after bedding in. Dont forget to cleen the hubs with some sand paper (my right front was pretty bad). And as for the obligitory stuff up when ever I work on my car - well dont use a "long" 15mm socket to undo the bolts for the calipers because as you undo the top one you will wedge the ratchet against the shock so tight that you wont be able to switch the selector on it to unwedge it (but you can just undow the bottom bolt and the caliper and disk will loosen - only took me 45 mins to figure that one out)

Couldnt see it being asked befor - but how Many Sydney siders have bikes and would be interested in a ride on my secret selection of nice roads in the North west of Sydney (Think windsor to Brooklyn - but different)? Obviously when the weather is better than it is today. (unfortunatly more and more of my riding mates keep losing their bikes due to "family commitments" - so sad.

after a bit of a search I think I am going to try the rda's - mainly because I am a tight arse and it seems no brand is 100% imune from the dreaded shudder issue. All I know is my fronts have shiney spots all over them and you can feel the brakes grab at all speeds (down to 1kmh). I think if you dont get pulsing at very low speeds it could be your bushes. I am going to clean up the hubs and paint them with some high temp paint to stop rust and really make an enffort to get those wheels torqued up properly and square. Then bed them in exactly as per the manufacturers instruction and see how I go (with new pads also). Thanks for the heads up on the sizes

last years results click the link above for the results of the 2008 "summer cruise" which was a litle eventful.

I am in. I was thinking about this the other day. The last one was a awsome cruise. 100% recomended - espesially newbies. And you have given me enough notice to get a few things prepared: 1) a more powerfull car mounted CB radio (after last years "incidents" when we all got stuck in the snow and some cars got lost I am not taking any chances). 2)a new tow rope - same reasons as above 3) new brakes - very important - I highly recomend making sure your rotors are smooth and probably replace brake fluid befor you go. 3) tidy up some of the scratches on my front splitter - dont usually notice them unless its sitting next to a dozen or so pristine examples of ford finest. now if I can can get my second round of upgrades before then I'll be even happier. (will help ofset my 130kg brother who will be my navigator (I'll tell him to back off the lunch beers this time which should reduce the bad jokes on the CB radio.) Whats the policy on non-members coming with diferent cars (no deekheads - just other car enthusiests) looking forward to it!!!

Ok, I have 110,000 and the original rotors are craptastic. Jump on the stoppers from "THE LEGAL LIMIT" and the car vibrates more than ugly chick's "neck massager" (FG xr6t ute) I am thinking about going dba or rda slotted but cant nail down the rear disc size 100%. I am pretty sure it is a 298mm solid disk but not sure on the thickness (16mm?). rda dont ahve a catalogue and the ute doesnt come up on the dba site. any ideas would be appriciated (other wise I have to waste another day doing the measurements the hard way. Cheers,

I fould this manual on the internet which doesnt seem to be a great help as it doesnt have any wiring details. I think maybe the ASL conector might be the most efficient route. BRN008077D1DFD7_008150.pdf

After a recent close call (I was let off for talking on my mobile) my old man decided to fork out for a parrot bluetooth 9100 (mainly because I am too much of a tight arse and would try to keepo using the ear piece) obviously he didnt do his research and should have bought one that had the pre made fg wiring adaptor from asl. So now I have to install it myself (which I actually prefer - so dont say "just buy one from asl"). Does any one have any info on where the FG Bluetooth plug is or a wiring diagram (colours). the most I could find is that it is in the passenger foot well and that the colours are different to the bf, nothing more. any help would be mucho apriciated!

110,000 on my fg ute, last 40,000 with 300rwkw & 700+RW NM. no problemo's - has a hard life

but the US population will eventually stand up for themselves regarding all this crap under the guise of anti terrorism (like they are doing now with speed cameras and firearm laws). Aussie's just accept it. Face it, when was the last time you wrote a letter to a MP, not to mention protest/attend a meeting/ ect. I think australians have to get a lot more active in govt. It would be easy for me to move to the US and enjoy their lifestyle (and the female related benifits our accent brings), but I think I will try to make a difference for the better here. I am neither Lib or Labor but the fact that NSW labor got elected last election shows how messed up australia is. re speeding fines, if they worked, shouldnt fine revenue decrease every year as people stop speeding because of them? its the same thing

Just remember it is not KW that kills g,boxes (or difs) its the torque. Power (kW) = Torque (N.m) x Speed (RPM) / 9.5488 Based of your figures of 300rwkw and 1100nm (asume r/w also) you would be making 300rwkw (and 1100nm)at 2577rpm which is f'ing huge. For comparison, I have 300rwkw also but at 4100rpm and my torque at that rpm is 716NM. A flat torque courve (table) of about 800NM through to 5250 will give a maximum of 450rwkw at 5250 which would be pretty nice. remember 300kw at 2000rpm is just as fast as 300kw at 5000rpm (just you have make 1430NM at 2000rpm vs 572 @ 5000rpm). You just wont have that huge rush when in 5th or 6th down low. that's my science leson for the day

I have had no issues with mine and I headed down a similar path. I got injectors also (to give myself a safty margin and upgrade path - they are cheap and worth it) I got a 5" 100cpi cat and as a result my acuator wasnt strong enough to control boost up in the rev range. I would suggest if you go a new cat, get the actuator done also (200 if you do it yourself or $500 for a tunner to do it). mines only got 290rwkw but mid range is freaky (spin 3rd rolling on at 90) and 6 gear is crazy from 110kmph (on the track of course). I never go past 5000rpm as there is no point. A better intercooler will give more consistant results as mine does suffer on hot days.

mucho fasto bet it doesnt have 245's out the back

no they dont come with the amp (but I heard that was going to change with the update later in the year) I dont think they have line outs either (but dont quote me)

exactamundo - I find it funny that most greenies live in the city (look at voter stats). You cant save the world just by recylcing your tofu packaging

right there!

because ford (and other companies) are run by accountants and liers lawyers. if I become prime minister I will not give ford another cent of tax payers money unless they buld the fastest 4 door sedan in the world - a moden GTHO - even if its just 50 of them for track and colectors Then to keep things fair I would do the same to Expensive Daewoo when its their turn. (toyota might get govt funded driving lesons with every car sold - that's it)

I did my fg on the weekend (100,000km)It wasnt blocked but was very restricted doing the blow through test compared to the new one. Even though I had ramps I took the air box out and went through the top - was heaps easier. The only issues I had were that I wasnt sure how far to screw the filter back into the block, I just went unitl I got woried. I also cleaned up the threads on the sensor fitting and put a bit of new gasket/thread sealer on to be safe. Its a biatch of a job but a set (24mm) of deep sockets and a 24mm spanner (get it to jam agains the inlets so everything doesnt spin) and it was pretty easy. Thanks for all the advice I also rotated my wheels and broke the lock nut adapter (cracked) so it wasnt all smooth sailing

I dont think its a 100% thing or you would hear even more horror stories. mines manual and had a very hard life (now its out of warranty I can admit it) 100,000km of which 35,000 has been with almost 800 nm - no problems for me.

remember torque isnt Killowasps You could limit yourself to 450 nm and have 471 KW - you'd just need to rev it to 10,000 rpm (450nm @10,000=471 kw). I know, I am very helpful

ahh jeeze - I can see that coming back to bite me

I just had a go of a 338 lapua. now that's a spicy meatball. And if any one questions the effectiveness of shooting to control feral animals - Ive got 300 acres in a vally (mine plus 2 neighbours) and we havnt had a fox/rabit/cat/goat/pig/deer for 2 years. Now ive got 10 wombats and 10000000 kangaroo's of various types but they are cool (untill they run into my car again). in padocks I like to use a yowee suit (camo net with foliage in it) and sneek up on the critters with a .22 (which I use 99% of the time). 223 is good for small stuff out to 250-300 mtrs or further if you know your range and trajectories. I currently use 303 or 308 or shot gun for cops/deer and goats but I am just about to get a 45-70 marlin lever action for these (with handloaded 1/2 ounce projectiles) I would also recomend handloading to any one that shoots centrefire - easy and more acurate and cheaper and adds a technical aspect (like tuning a car I guess).

a fine piece of black top