rockafellqeinstien

ahhhh come on. I got 423 and I cab see me chasing more.

I have been doing some research on WD40 and I think in this application, there should be a better choice. I used it for years on some of my firearms and did notice the gummed up effect - could be why the improvement is only temporary. http://thefiringline.com/forums/archive/index.php?t-468687.html I am leaning towards something like CRC Syntex Synthetic Lubricant (rubber safe and no silicone) http://www.crctraining.com.au/site/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=8:crc-syntex-synthetic-lubricant&catid=9:lubricants&Itemid=32 just an idea

sell the car and get a bike you wont get back the depreciation on the g6e

it is mucho fun. but I am realising that with great power come great responsibility - got my full points atm and want to keep it that way. Overtaking on single lane hwy's requires a gentle throttle unless you want to pass a b double sideways and a bit of smoke. clutch is an xtreme HD organic - pretty sure its at its limit - but its been in for 65,000 and seems to be holding - at least to the top of 4th

OK this is a bit long: Firstly a bit of History. Got my FG m6 Ute new back in 08 just after they came out - was a big step up in power from your standard falcon and Late model camira 6's. At 70,000 kms decided to bite the bullet and get some mods done. 60lb injectors HF cat and centre muffler delete Xcal3 tune Made 290rwkw I was a bit disappointed with the results to be honest. It got a nice boost in mid-range torque but felt like very little improvement at the top end (felt quite flat). My Ute works pretty hard for a living and I live in the bush with a driveway that can strand 4x4's. Its hit 2 wombats and about 8 kangaroos. Done more miles on corrugations than any other car I know and even drove over an unmarked 300mmx 300mm trench across one road late one night (council at its best). So it’s had a hard life but stood up very well. I am just about to hit 200,000 and was thinking about what to do next - then Joe’s (cms) gtx special made up my mind. Spoke with Joe about what was required which was fine, however I had a HDI cooler sitting in the shed and decided to use that as part of the upgrade as I thought it should do the job (Rule number 1 is always listen to your tuner - I'll come back to this latter) SO I got a full 3.5" xforce from castle hill exhaust, who did a great job tweaking it so it sat nice and high (remember my driveways is rough).Nice note and has a bit of pop and crackle Also got a rapid 4" intake (I love that sound) Relocated the battery to inside the cabin behind the seat. Installed the HDI cooler - I completed all this at 1 am the night before the car went to CMS and then I was in Darwin for 2 weeks Then off to Joe @ CMS for the rest: Pump and surge tank Valve springs Id1000 injectors Gtx gtx3582r with associated mods & actuator Then Joe called and I knew before he said it, the HDI wasn't cutting the mustard which meant a PW stage 3 - could have saved myself a lot of work here. So finally it is all done ready to go and it’s pumping out a healthy 423rwkw on Caltex eflex and 390 rwkw on 98. Not pushing the tune too hard as the car has almost 200,000kms on it If your ever wondering what it’s like to go from 300 to 400 rwkw - it’s amazing - awesome. It’s a totally different beast. With my set up, there is bugger all lag, I mean if I floor it in second, the rears almost instantly turn - I am not sure if my old small turbo was shagged or the tune was off, but the gtx picks up quicker ..............and keeps going. It doesn't run out of puff ...ever – its got serious mojo from 2500rpm. The top end is phenomenal. Even third gear squirms and squeals The old turbo, I would usually change at 4500 rpm as there was no point going further - now I go to redline and that’s were some serious magic happens. I am lucky to have access to private bit of road (a rather ordinary but long bitumen driveway) but it allows me to stretch the legs so to speak. Let’s just say that 4th gear is crazy fast – the difference from the old set up is massive. To put it in perspective, it’s like going from a standard falcon to an F6 – except now you are going from a F6 to this. If you’re thinking of going to the next level, you wont regret it. Cost a bit over 10 grand for something that will eat 99.9% of other cars (inc amg’s HSV, BMW M’s etc) and still hit wombats, carry water tanks, tow massive loads and cost 2cents to service and maintain. 10 points to ford and Joe at CMS - one happy camper here right now

pull the brakes and check the slides - re lube and see how that goes - mione still didnt want to play ball so I got new (larger) calipers

yep great pad, bit of squeal but otherwise very good. havnt done a track day but they pull up very well from 200+ and I get mucho KMs from them. they are a litte hard on my rda slotted rotors (2 sets and they are done)

That looks pretty attractive. Might have to see if they can do one for the Ute. If any one had price goddess for instal that would be help full

Legally, it won't happen. But as long as you are nice to your clutch you'll bee fine.have towed 5t on private roads with mine.steep starts are the only risk

yeap - early fg's had this issue - mine had it. there is a service advice for it - they reseal around the top of the tray and put in two flat pieces (300mm x 200mm above the wheels where for some reason there are big gaps that make it easy for mud and crap to get up and into the tray. your only issue will be if your out of warrenty (id still hit them up) failing that, take your black top trims off and silcon the crap out of it and put it back on.

its pretty easy to do a pressure test of your intake piping - a few threads about it here. a little compressor - a tyre valve and a pvc end cap and some soap suds and you should be able to find it (I did) or a tuner can use a smoke machine and its even easier (shouldn't be too expensive)

out of curiosity - how much do they charge for this - could be an opportunity for some one to do a personal one man operation

am I reading that right: 4 th fasted in session 1 was : 92 EMMANUEL DALAKAKIS EMMANUEL DALAKAKIS JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE 3E 1 1 0:21.5450 0:01.4440

Thinking of doing my own valve springs for my FG xr6 turbo. mainly because I like doing things myself and secondly it will save me some $$ and get my next round of upgrades sooner. has any one rented the atomic spring tool - was it pretty straight forward (looks like it from the video). looking for a bit of reassurance before I take the plunge

has any one heard anything from ford on this? My fg eats inside rear pads. I probably go through 4 inside pads to one outside. I even replaced one caliper with a new one from ford just to see if it made a difference - nope still goes through the inside one 4 to one. (have tried different discs and different pads and all the same problems. The only thing I can think of is that the seal/tollerence on the caliper pins is too good once you put lube in there and then the boot on. it sort of creates a hydraulic ram effect and takes to much effort to push them together. when you stop pushing them together they push apart under their own power quite powerfully - like the hydraulicstruts on you bonnet. Good for top speed runs but not good for pad wear.

I had a similar issue. lots of weired things going on - security lock out engaged in the end - couldn't figure it out. Roll started mine in reverse (down a drive way with a 3 tone trailer on it - wasnt a good day). in the end I replaced the battery and it fixed it. I know you've replace the battery but it could be a connection issue also.

Kewl Idea, I took my tub off my turbo and drove around for a while with nothing and honestly the grip was still pretty good and it was faster (fg 300rwkw). The weight reduction ove rthe rear is only a good thing. props for all that you did (you 60-140kmh acceleration should be very nice

Thanks for that, Just a quick follow up. it was just the fixed part of the caliper I had to hit with the oxy (not the floating part with the cylinder) and I removed the boots from the pins - so it was just the metal being heated I got 4 new pins from ford at $15 each and 2 x caliper kits for $45 each which include boots and seals and grease and bolts for the pins - but not the pins??? might as well do both properly - I think it seized because the rubber boots didnt seal and water got in there (been a bit wet) - off to spend another late night under the car - yay

SO I heard my rear brakes start getting rough and decided to change the pads. Unfortunatly due to work I couldnt get down to Racebrakes so I Just picked up a pair of bendix from supercheap. Got home and at about 9pm and started changeing them ( I think you can tell where this is going). So I do one side and also adjust the park brake and start on the drivers side. I pull off the caliper and discover the pins seized like a ba$%%rd. So I pull the boots off and hit it with WD 40 and While I wait for that to work I change my spark plugs. zCome back and still no love. Get the oxy out and throw the pin head in a vise and go to work. I finally get the pins out at 1:30 am but they are coroded so I cant finished the job any way (ffs something always goes wrong when I do work at night). So should I just get new pins and boots or is it common practice to replace the whole part of the caliper that they go into (can you do this or do you have to buy both parts of the caliper). I saw in another post that boots are exspensive from dealers (no word on pins) are these standard items that you cacn pick up from repco ? Thanks for any advise

I know fg is 2300kg either way - I would make sure you get the zf auto (no ba's)

Ok, just thought I'd post my boost leak experience for the benifit of others. FG turbo with 160,000kms. car slowly loosing power over 6 months but I didnt really notice as it was gradual. At the same time, I had what sounded like an exhaust leak gradually appear - slowly so I didnt notice. once it became apparent, I figured it was the turbo bolts right (that's what ever one says happens.). So I pull all the piping off and check the bolts 2 slightly loose manifild bolts but everything else was tight as (torqued up perfect). no leak there (skinned knuckels and fun couple of hours for nothing). While I am there I check the turbo (clean as a whistle) and clean the throttle body whch is also clean as a whistle (not bad for 160,000) so I put it all back together and still a leak, So I am thinking exhaust??? but I decide to do a leak test first as per the instructions on this forum and find 2 leaks. one in the actuator line (never would have found that) and one real big one in the connection to the throttle body. it was under the clamp so I couldnt see it. FOrd wanted $110 for the elbow and conector so I went to autobahn (after a well known filter/hose specialist was no help) and got a bit of silicon hose for 10 bucks and 2 new clamps. it was a bit under size (about 76mm id) but I got it on there finally (in the rain out the front of the store so I didnt have to come back if it didnt work) wow, what an imporvement. my advise is, if you think you have a leak - do a test first - cost me $5 to make the tester (pvc cap and air valve from supercheap) it would have saved me hours.

This really sucks - been working my arse off and I am still going to miss the cruise. (atleast my car will be all nice to come back to as I preped it before I left syd for work - new tyres/brakes/fuids/filters). May be the next one be safe (some one else better bring a tow rope)

Who here really believes that ford (or any other manufacturer) doesn’t drop special tunes into their press cars? Hell Subaru did it to the first wrx's (until some one put a boost meter on the pres car and saw the extra boost). There is evidence they did it to the FG xr6 turbo's and there is suspicions that Expensive Daewoo do the same. that's why I dont believe the media on these issues (besides the effect of advertising dollars). I think I get a heap more value out of Crannys review (and those like them). Maybe it is a bit faster, but if it doesnt feel it, I'd be disappointed. I love the turbo because of the boost kick, I can get that feeling and still drive within the speed limit - it just needs a v8 sound track). I'll always remember my first test drive in a fg xr6 turbo - that was mucho impressive (coming from a much slower car). I dont think I'll get that same feeling going from xr6t (tuned) to a GS - even it was also tuned - and certainly not for a $40,000 change over. Will I buy a GS? probably, but not untill the current car is up for replacement (and I have experienced what $5k upgrading the v8 feels like - I couldn’t go backwards). Thanks for the review

some interesting reading: http://www.netrider.net.au/forums/showthread.php?t=110903&page=2 victoria is not the place to get caught speeding - absolute liability is a biotch

OK, Following on from the "Whats the bigest load youve had in your ute", I was inspired by some pictures of a car transporter in china that a mate sent me to do a "whats your bigest towing effort" thread. (How can they make things for half the price - for starters, put twice as many cars on a car transporter). also saw the pics of a ef falcon towing a landcruiser that went badly wrong. Trailer Towing the Einstein way.... - Page 5 - PerformanceForums pics have unfortunatly been removed but hopfully they will resurface. (the land cruiser was tied down with string through the front wheel - seriously, string!!!!) I just got a 13x6 foot box trailer (biger than my ute) so I'll need to see what I can load up in that (on private property of course.