rockafellqeinstien

yeah - whats with every one jacking up e85 price in the last few weeks - usually 25c cheaper than unleaded now - rip off

something for all you E85 Alfred Einstein's to peruse. http://delphi.com/pdf/techpapers/2010-01-0619.pdf

rda cheap slotted here with QFM A1RM‎ - flog the crap out of them and I just have to re bed them every 15,000 kms (a few solid stops from 90kmph) to stop glazing. I have never seen a warped disc (put mine on my lathe all the time to check) usually always glazing or hotspots - which is pad or pad/disc incompatibility

just remember there are some dead set nutters out there (what you going to do if they pull a pipe or a knife). your better off recording with your phone than getting out of the car. although I am seeing more instances of other people getting out of cars to tell a road rager to piss off (ie. nut case get out of car to yell at a chick and 3 strangers get out of cars and tell him to stop). who knows - world might be changing for the better

winford are tools - heard many stories like yours power ford castle hill are good for sales and test drives - cant get you in a car quick enough (understanding that when you put your foot down half the selling is done). although their service dept is just as bad as the others.

OK so if I hit 5 kangaroos a year at 11,000 pounds a pop at current exchange rates I would be up for /..................... $79896.30 xr6 looking like good value now (1 headlight at $150 and a few hours repairing frond bumper for probably 15 roo hits)

just a foillow up on whether any one has done this for an FG - I figure its got to be close

when I looked I couldnt get a bull bar or even a nudge bar for a xr6 turbo - the Inter cooler caused issues . doesnt matter anyway - most of my roo hits have been in the side of the car - once even when stopped (dumb @%#$#$% animals) personally I think they are sexually atracted to the sound of fords Inline six

So I am getting code p0236 - boost sensor circuit out of range. I was thinking that it was probably just a faulty sensor as it occurs after I reach about 18 psi or more(have a gtx set up) and that it wasnt reading the high PSI correctly. So I ordered a new one thinking that might fix it (I havnt picked it up or paid for it yet). but now I discover on bosch's web page that the FG map sensor is part number 0 261 230 020 which max's out at 115 kpa (or 16 psi at 4.65 volt). I guess theoretically you might get to use the extra .35 volt (total 5 volt) but even then that would only bring you up to just over 17 psi. So what happens if you go over this amount - does the maf sensor take over? I am now thinking that the reason my car throws the p0236 code is it max's out the Map sensor range. Seeing that there are alot of cars running more than 17 psi, do/are tuners just able to stop that code from registering? when mine throws the code, the car obviously goes into some special limpy mode and surges/pulses on light throttle. if I clear it it goes back to normal straight away. mucho grassy arse for any advice

not sure but none of them say grey is the signal - my bet would be black or purple

just check your wiring also: http://www.aa1car.com/library/o2_wire_chart.jpg

yeah, just better rotors and pads (I got slotted rda and afm pads) and good fluid. if you tow or are super hard the stock rears can give you trouble, but you can get the teritory calipers for about $350 and rda rotors for $100 ish (takes it from 298 non-vented to 328 vented I think from memory and a much bigger pad) I have never had mine fade bad yet

from memory, just pop the grills off (carefully as usual ) think you just push a few place holders in from the side and it should come out. I dont think I had to remove the rest of the trim to do the speakers - it would hav been a seat out then back trim out then side trim out - if you had to do that. being small helps

OK, So I figure if you going to run 400-450 rwkw your going to need a bit of insurance. So I got a mtx-L wideband AFR meter from ebay - about $200. Came with the guage and wiring and the wide band sensor. I chose this one because it had a narrow band output so I didnt need to run 2 o2 sensors (dont have to weld a second bung) instalation was pretty easy. run the cables through the rubber grommet at the top right of the passenger foot well. - you'll need to pull though a wire first, then tape the plug on to the wire and pull it back through (otherwise the plug will be to big to push through. put the new o2 sensor in and left the old one conected to the ecu plug as the ecu might throw a fault code if it doesnt sense the plug heater working. Then run a wire from the brown ouput on the guage bact to the signal sensor on the still conected original plug which is just hanging in the engin bay (forgot which colour it was (grey was heater and I think black was ground so it was the "other" colour) I left the old sensor tie wired to the engin bay down there. not great but I'll get a resistor to imitate the heater circuit so I can bin the old plug. Sensor runs great and the narrow band output works a treat (slightly better idle). http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/MTXL.php for $200 you cant go wrong I just need to mount it better - down under the radio isnt the best place to look while your wot - I'll probably mount on the steering column

Thanks for that, Not sure on the pre load, I was going to try and remove the arm from the waste gate and have a play but I dont think I can do it while the turbo still on the car - I reackon I'd have no chance of getting the circlip off while its all conected - curse my large hands.. and pulling the turbo out doesnt sound like a fun way to spend my one day off a week

Hi guys, just wanted confirmation on an issue I am having. I think I am over boosting when temperature is less than about 30 degc. I say I think, because the car (fg) is throwing a p0236 code. now this isnt exactly an over boost code, its saying the Map sensor is out of range. it can throw this code at anything above 18psi (which is my target boost). So if it was over boosting it could still throw this code but there is a chance that it is the map sensor causing my grief. So I did a leak test on the I/C and piping and besides a few little issues it was fine. The tune is requesting max duty cycle where its over boosting (waste gate fully open), so I thought maybe the solinoide or actuator is causing a problem. I put a regulated air supplly to the actuator and it opens - doesnt seem to open a lot at 12 psi (its a 12psi garret actuator) but as you dial the presure up to 20psi it opens more. it still continues its travel until about 25 psi. Do you think that if you were able to bring that last bit of travel back from 25 psi to a more usual 18psi, would that help control (I dont think it would really add much flow) then to eliminate the solenoid I connected the actuator direct to the turbo. my understanding is that this will hold the flapper shut until 12 psi at which point it will start to open the flapper as boost goes beyond 12 psi (comming directly from the turbo.) Went for a spin and nothing seemed to change. still over boosted and same fault code. although on the boost gauge(using anroid app off the obd port) there was no change in the turbo boost rate of increase around the 12psi point. I would have thougt that at 12 psi where the waste gate would start to open, the rate of boost increase would have slowed - but it didnt. So I am thinking (always dangerous) that the enlarged W/G port is still to small (cant bleed enough exhaust before it hits the turbine) or its a faulty map sensor. I am working with the tuner of the car, but I live a fair way from him and if its something simple, well that helps everyone (saved a lot of hastle previously with self diagnosis - mainly related to boost leaks. I also have a afr meter wide band and it is showing higher readings than I would like at the overboost point. also, would I be corect in thinking you can not tune out over boost if the waste gate is simply too small. thanks for any help (specs) gtx turbo xforce 3" sysytem with 4" dump id1000 surge tank and pump valve springs 4" turbo side intake PW stage 3 cooler and pipes

check those plastic discs between the leaf ends - when mine wear out or fall out - I get the creaks

I'd investigate its service history - ie, if one dealer was servicing it in nsw - ring them up and ask what the last service they did to it (if they say 100,000 then you know there's an issue). also - you might be able to track down the previous owner. tyre places also keep KM details if you can find out who did the last tyre set (should have only had one set for those kms)

changing brake pads. Using a ratchet and socket to undo one of the caliper bolts (on the rear I think). as I was undoing it it jammed the ratchet into part of the suspension (socket was too long). so its jammed in there between the calliper and the suspension but I cant get to the direction selector at the back of the ratchet because its jambed (I thought I did but I just jamed it even more). then I was installing a stereo in an old camira once and was using a standard 240v light globe on a lead without any protective cage around it - yep it came loose from the grab handle and melted a nice hole in the seat.

I couldnt imagine riding a camel if I wasnt drunk

fyi, I just did 80kmh in a 60 zone on my bicycle yesterday. country road, 2 drive ways , no traffic, good visibility down hill it was a 90 zone until some young fella was going to fast in the rain (probably more than 90), didnt make the turn and ended up in the creek upside down and drowned. Result was to drop the speed limit to 60 and put a barrier in. When some one does the same thing at 60kmph when the road is icy, they will probably drop the speed limit to 40. I am thinking about surrendering myself to the local police station and confess my crime.

yeah QFM A1RM - must have been drinknig that night. from my research (I did a lot - my shudder was bad) you need to do the 80% brake from about 80kmh (a bit faster if you have hard pads) - 6 times - and have a minute or 2 between each and never totally stop. I also found out and believed to be true, never rough up a pad or rotor with sand paper or concrete and never drag a brake peddle to bed it in.

think of it this way, is it fair to loose your job and income for doing 30 km over - I dont think so. Go back 15 years and you could do 45 or over and loose 6 points and about $500 bucks I think. go back 15 years and you could do 80kmh past all these schools that now have 40kmh limits - should we retroactively charge all of us that drove at 80 for years or the govt bureaucrat that made the speed limit 80 back then???? I know of a half a dozen roads near me that are 60 but 90% of people do atleast 80-90 - steep and no foot paths - cops dont hammer them either cause the speed limits are wrong. that's why I like courts because they can decide what the situation was at the time and make a fair call

http://www.lawlink.nsw.gov.au/lawlink/lawaccess/ll_lawassist.nsf/pages/lawassist_appealingsuspension_fine Appealing the suspension - Step by step guide You can appeal to the Local Court against a suspension if you are suspended in one of these ways: you are a learner or provisional licence holder and you get too many demerit points. for speeding in excess of 30 km/hr over the speed limit for speeding in excess of 45 km/hr over the speed limit on the spot by a police officer. You must file your appeal within: 28 days of the date of the Notice of Suspension from Roads and Maritime Services (RMS formerly RTA) or 28 days of when you get the on the spot suspension from police. If you do not file your appeal within 28 days, even if the court accepts your application, the magistrate will not be able to hear your case. If you have an unrestricted licence and it is suspended because you get 13 or more demerit points, you cannot appeal to the Local Court against the suspension. You have the option of applying for a good behaviour licence. If you have an unrestricted licence and you chose to go on a good behaviour period, you cannot appeal to the Local Court if you get 2 or more points during this period and your licence is suspended. For more information, see Demerit points - Licence suspensions. all depends on the magistrate and the case you put forward - but I think you have a good chance

Ok, I had lots of shudder early on with my FG. AFM pads and RDA slotted discs seemed to fix it. I am sure it was the original pads that were depositing crap on the rotors. it also started to happen again on my latest set of afm and rda's on the front - maybe I didnt bed them in proberly to start with. They were getting what looked like hot spots all over them and was "rumbleing when medium braking" anyway - following interweb instructions I did 5-6 stops from 80-100kmph using about 80% braking force. no more spots and no more noise - good as gold!!! from my research, if I didnt do this, it could have got to a stage where I couldnt have fixed them - if left to long.