rockafellqeinstien

once it starts slipping in 5th or 6th you could just baby it until your ready to replace - but it will need to be replaced at those power levels

I have a fg manual with a GTX3582 - I wouldnt call it laggy. it will instantly fry 1st or 2nd and pretty much any rpm. In my view - the smaller turbo would just mean you dont have to down shift - you can be a bit lazy and leave it in a higher gear and let the torque do its thing. what bugged me with the smaller turbos is that when you wanted to get up it, it would feel flat in the top end - only because it was making more down low so it felt like less up top if that makes sense. The GTX3582 is very linear and predictable which is what I personally like - you can really controll the power in the corners which was problematic with the smaller turbo . but at 110kph at 2000rpm in 6th it will still haull ass if overtaking without a gear change - or you can drop into 4th and your into rocket ship territory. personally I think the GTX3582 is a perfect match for the manual - and it gives you head room to play in the future

like my place. 2 lane country road in the middle of nowhere (maybe 6 cars an hour and 1 drive way every 1 km). 3 fatalities in the last 4 years. 1 was in the rain going way to fast (120+) and missed a corner and drowned in a creek. other was a motorcycle t boned at an intersection other was a drunk driver. in the 5 years preceding that the speed limit was droped from 90 to 80 then to 70. didnt do anything to save these poor buggers, but..... people now overtake the jerks that do 65 on this road that should be at least 80 and probably back to 90. the rta did a survey and something like 78% of divers on this stretch of rd exceeded the speed limit by more than 10kmph - their responce was to have a cop hide in the bushed for a few months. All the numpty's that drive at 80 got fined because they were just driving at what they thought was an appropriate speed (which they were) and the true speed demons never got fined because they new where the cops hide. end result - more $$$ for govt, more people driveing 65 in what should be a 80-90 zone and more dangerous overtaking and tailgating.

Ok, I know I'll fix this but thought it put it out there in case any one has had this problem and to record my solution if no one has. Car has been running fine for last 35,000 kms (total 230,000km) since last tune (few little issues like loose hoses or loose batery connection but tracked them down and fixed) now on snappy high rpm 1st to 2nd gear changes (manual) it bogs down for a second or less (sometimes twice - eg, change, bog down, power, bog down , power). if I just boot it in 2nd it will go through the full rpm range no problems car runs fine in all other gears and gear changes (400rwk gtx with cold side intake and simmy valve) SO I am thinking it could be one of these causes. 1)boost leak - engine torquing during the gear change is enough to cause a lake somewhere 2) dodgy electrical connection showing up due to torquing 3)sticky or slow actuator - 4)crappy solenoid (have wd/40'd it to test with no change) 5)bov not working right 6)spark plugs 7) simmy valve opening a bit due to boost spike on change (checked this and couldnt see it opening) excess fuel during change(leaky injector?) I did a quick Leak test of the IC at low pressure and couldnt see any leaks but need to take the under tray off to see the IC connections. as I said, I'll figure it out but am putting it out there for advice no codes and turbo presure drops to 5 psi but that could indicate a leak or the engine makes no power so no boost (doesnt help either way) any advice appriciated

So I serviced my car the other night and cleaned and oiled the K&N 4" pod (turbo side) and put it back on like I have done 5 times before. it seemed to be a bit more further down the aluminum pipe than it should have but I didnt take much notice while I was taking it off. I put it back on so it only just grabed the pipe, alowing for good air flow. but.... as I have a bad habbit of over tightening things and breaking them (boost hoses, towbars,wheel nuts, nipple clamps etc) I didnt do it up super duper tight, didnt want to cut through the rubber with the clamp The car ran heaps better ............... for a few days but then seemed to be gradually slower. After thinking about it for a while I decided to check the filter and it was fine but had been sucked down the pipe a bit and as a result the aluminium intake pipe was a fair way in the pod. So I cleaned any oil off the pipe and degreased it a bit and screwed the filter back on tighter and what do you know - mucho power back again. I guess 18psi, a bit of oil on the pipe and a slightly loose clamp allowed it to move - I wouldnt have thought it would have reduced power that much but it was the difference between spinning in 3rd and not spinning.

yeah - this happened to mine (down to metal and rusting), but I was out of warranty and had a few dings on the tub and broken rear tail light and the bumber was loose after getting caught on a gutter so I figured it would be easier to fix myself it was, I bought a new white tub off ebay for $500 - would have cost me more than that in lost income dealing with ford

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QQh56geU0X8

I travel a fair bit and get to drive some nice cars but for the money (rator ctsv, taursus sho on my last trip, nothing comes close to my FG xr6T I love being away for a couple of weeks because I get to experience that rush again when I get back in the ute (460rwkw or rush that is, thanks to Mick at pit lane) oh yeah - it has over 225,000kms and travels on some of the worst roads in australia and has only had minor issues. and when it does have issues or I need to replace consumables, they are cheap as chips

Just thinking out loud. If the dealer did the initial repair and stuffed it (or may be didnt do some things it should have per the ford work authorisation) then they would have a very good reason for trying to fob you off and not even talking to the factory). It might fall back on them and not the factory - just sayin

there a million things better to put in in than a BA now if you could put that in a xw falcon - that would be cool!!!!!!

I have the sport 1 on my manual ute. they are pretty good considering. on a good road they wont spin 3rd with a 400 rwkw tune but with e85 and 460 the slightest anomaly will fry them. for the money they are great - ill get the sport 2 next (which wont take long) I also have 45 series 18 inch tyres not the 40 series that's standard. this also helps traction

if your doing the US. get a convertible mustang for less than $50 a day fully insured (book through the UK sites of the major rental companies as its heaps cheaper and includes insurance). then just drive - no need to book ahead, you'll always find something good for less than 100 bucks a night. When you find a place you like, stay longer. I'd go the whole hog - LA - Chicargo - Newyork - Florida - Texas - LA. All in a car and never take the freeways - always the back roads. places I'd say you have to see are: universal sudios - LA Death vally - Vegas - Spend a week and see some shows (and go to the machine gun range) colorado - just legalised the wacky tabacky - plus its a nice place chicargo - cool place - lots to do House on the rock in Wisconsin (couple of hours north of chicargo) - freekn awesome place Newyork - easy few days, and take a trip into the ghetto neighbourhoods (in a taxi) - eye opener Head up to newport/mathervinyard/hamptons - cool big houses head south - heaps to do on the way - stop by the smoky mountains (think moonshine and dukes of hazard) visit biltmore estate in N carolina (its a big cool house - go horse riding and river rafting) down to florida (cool theme parks including disney world and NASA) accross to texas via new orleans (think kings cross combined with vegas and amsterdam - crazy place) go helicotper pig shooting in texas visit the hughe airforce boneyard in arizona (best $5 I ever spent) spend a night at a desert ranch/bar few days in sandiego - visit the aircraft carrier and do some water sports - also rent a harley - $150 a day and an awsome place to ride up in the mountains then off to europe (southern france is very awesome) Do a bit of sailing off croatia Vietnam was probably my favourite place in Asia you are going to have a fun trip

my car had the same issue (manual fg turbo). when rolling in nutral or with the clutch down it would rev high but as soon as I stoped it would drop down. It was a manifold leak (gasket blown) . there must have been a special idle control or something that was able to over come the extra air from the leak but it only activated when the car was stationary. as soon as I fixed the leak it was all good. do a pressure test (preferably with smoke) on your intake all the way from the turbo to the engine. (presure and some soap suds also work - that's how I found mine)

any one done their FG dash?

dont cop cars run a biger alternator for all there gizmos - or does cop mode make the alternator more powerful like the engine

yeah but most fg turbos pull 225-250 stock but did he throw a tune in while it was there hehehehe

do you have a boost guage - if it was tuned for 12 psi with bad joins it might be making significantly more than that now its been fixed. the vent pipe goes to the intake prior to the turbo I think so it shouldnt be seeing presure (from memory here) might be blocked?

if you have a surge tank, its worth checking your tyre clearance on the bolts (PW and probably others) I noticed a shinny bolt in my wheel arch and then saw the tyre had been rubbing it on full lock (and gouged a nice grove in the tyre). if I hadnt checked, the new tyre wouldnt have lasted 1000kms I cut the protruding thread off and filed it down smooth with the bolt. I changed tyre brands to Achilles (and I already run 45 series not 40 series 18" ) and they were slightly wider than the last ones - hence the issue if you have a surge tank and bigger tyres/wheels its worth checking and if your installing a surge tank trim those bolts down.

ss ute: better ride on rough roads better seating position v8 sound good looks (but more common) xr6t better fuel ecconomy faster easier upgrades and power potential (I am running 400-460 rwkw reliability (mines at over 200,000km my old mans caprice and brothers clalais with less than 50k on them have more issues. better load carying ding the rear tray a few times - no problems drop an new ebay one on for $400 I was dead set on a ss until I drive the xr6t - then I was sold - glad I did. if I was to do it again now, I would stretch fro a GS (supercharged 5.0)

f6 has shift buzzer I think - xr6 dont. regarding best shift points - sometimes short shifting (shifting well prior to red line) is faster in some cars - I believe the 6 speed autos have these optimal calibrations in them. in some old cars they might have run out of puff up high so you shift earlier to go faster (like an old lancer 1.6 litre - no point ringing its neck to redline when it is making no power up there) in my case I short shift 1st and second because I have too much power, I find its quicker to pluck a higher gear and wind it out - otherwise I am just spinning and there's not point trying to modulate the throttle - particularily in 1st. when I had the small fg standard turbo I would typically shift at no more than 5000 rpm because power would fall away and I had so much torque down low - with the GTX turbo it goes hard al the way to red line and its easy to get caught hitting the limiter in 1st 2nd and 3rd (I am getting a shift light)

yeah - you have to change headlights to go f6 bar dont you. I am waiting for a used white fg bar (mk1 or 2 ) to replace mine - one too many roo hits now. I can see it flying off at 250kmh which would be less than ideal

e85 from deewhy on sat 88% and 1.17 best price in a while

interesting So you can get a non-cast replacement HUB for our cars from Jap? I like the theory but still - every case I have seen of so called warped disc has been glazing/hotspots. they have all been true when put on a lathe. I have also mesured run out whilst on the car - even easier with a magnetic holder with the dial caliper mounted. this makes sense because the shudder occures at high speed and also low speed when pads are bone cold but still have basically zero run out not saying he is wrong but if it is warping rotors you'd have to see run out somewhere (unless it only warps at high speed and then back to normal - but then you wouldnt get shudder at low speed which ever one does) Put a dial caliper on the rotor (while the wheel is on) and check your run out first and foremost on a side topic - I have had my rotors glowing red more than once - no ill effects

its only bolt up if it doesnt sit 3 inches low - which mine did when the exhaust place fitted it - I think they had to do 2 cuts and welds to tuck it up nice and high

FYI on a related subject: Bone stock 2012 911 turbo http://www.edmunds.com/car-reviews/track-tests/2012-porsche-911-turbo-s-track-test.html 1/4-Mile (sec @ mph): 10.9 @ 125.5