Azzman460

cool. So where would you guys recommend to get the dekas and surge setup from? do any forum advertisers give good deals on these parts? or will I have to look around?

ok then I have typhoon injectors so I'll run them to begin with then swap to the dekas for a more agressive tune. Will a surge tank be neccessary with the ute? I've read that the utes arent to bad with the surging problems.

so will the dekas be ok to run the standard typhoon/turbo tuning whilst I run the car in?

G'day guys. I'm building a turbo motor with forged internals, once I get this going I will be running it with an F6 fuel pump and F6 Injectors on standard boost to run the motor in. Once I'm happy with this set up I will be going nuts with the boost and other mods, hopefully making around 300-350+RWKW. Which fuel pump and injectors would you guys reccomend to use to accomodate this sort of power?? Its a BF MKII Ute so should I invest in some sort of surge tank or something as well to stop any lean outs that may occur? Any help is appreciated guys! Cheers.

On a similar note, I am putting a BA N/A Motor, rebuilt to turbo spec, in a BF N/A MK II, 6 Speed manual Ute, and running a BF MK II Turbo 6 Speed manual PCM , so basically its a car, engine and PCM all from seperate places. Will I be able to do a similar thing and just take the car to a dealer and get them to parameter reset on the car and get all these things working together? once I have it working as a standart T then I'll get it tuned.

Is anybody who's a member of the forum come on the cruise? I drive an N/A BF Ute. So is it turbo's only or is anybody welcome?

This is possibly the best, funniest, most entertaining, knowledge filled thread on this site. Kept me entertained for a while haha! I vote to make it a sticky!

wow this is an old thread! I would also have to disagree with having to crack the bleed nut, I dont see why you have to do this. changing the pads is not such a big deal, the G-Clamp method is the best way to push the piston back, and make sure you do one at a time, because if you take both calipers off and do one side, it will push the piston out of the caliper on the other side, which creates even more problems. Anywho hope it all worked out ok hahaha

sounds good, do you know how many rwkw you can get out of these kits before you get problems?? I'm looking at making 350-400rwkw with this kit.

ah sorry, what I meant to say was I'm getting a standard ford XR6 Turbo PCM to start with and from there just flash it with a custom tune setting. You have to be very careful with your PCM selection though as my ute is a BF but my engine is a BA and there are differences between MKI and MKII in both the BA and BF so it takes a bit of research. So you just use the 2 bar MAP sensor and the turbo PCM will work fine with that. Yeah I have to do something about my diff, although I have a LSD from factory its still not as strong as the turbo diff. Your auto should be fine with that power but I love my manuals haha. I'm not sure if changing the sump on one of these is an engine out job, you might get away with dropping the subframe but it would still be a bit of a mission! just remember that the wastegate spring pressure will be the minimum boost you will get out of the car so you might not wanna go to high with the N/A Internals, I wouldnt push it past 10psi before getting worried, and make sure you get a really good tune done! Sounds like a good project man, keep us posted!

G'day mate, I'm doing this conversion as well however I'm going a little bit further and rebuilding a doner N/A engine with atomic forged pistons and rods and associated parts. I'm running all F6 gear I.e turbo, manifold, crossover, intercooler etc. Getting a turbo sump would be the best way to go but as I'm using a doner engine I'll just take the sump off and tap it. Have you put any thought into the gearbox? My gearbox is a T5 5 speed manual but these do not last very long at all with more power put through them, so I'm also getting a T56 6 speed manual to put in and a 2 piece tailshaft. I'm also using a standard for PCM mainly for the boost control and the stock boost controller is far better than most aftermarket ones you can buy. At the moment this is my list and prices All off an F6: -Garret GT 35/40 Turbo -Manifold -Dump -Injectors -Fuel Pump -Intercooler -Crossover -Oil and water lines with postage $2000 T56 6 speed manual $1500 Doner BA N/A Engine $900 Atomic engine rebuild kit $3700 that's all I have so far (except the engine rebuild kit, but that's how much it is) I also need the 2 piece tailshaft and diff joint to suit, 2 bar map sensor, valve springs, and a few other selected components in there somewhere Anyway let us know how you go with your conversion, hope it all goes ok!

Hey guys, I am rebuilding a N/A 6 Motor for a turbo. I was thinking of using the atomic engine rebuild kit. Does anybody have any experience or feedback with this kit? Do you think this is a good choice for turbo parts? It cost $3700 for this kit. Any advice or help is appreciated. Thanks guys!

having said that I'd be tapping the sump man, I wouldnt risk any other method if you need that much oil flow, tapping the sump would be the best way. As for buying a T, I reckon the conversion is cheaper! and heaps more fun!

I wouldnt be trusting any other method for my turbo's sake, I say just man up and tap the sump or if you dont have the skills get somebody else to do it. If your really worried about it, take the sump off and do it, that way you can clean it out without worrying about swarf getting in your engine. If your extra extra worried then buy a turbo sump. I wouldnt be trusting any other method as doing any of these things is a lot cheaper than a new turbo!

G'day guys, I'm turboing my N/A 6 BF MKII Ute with a 5 speed manual and 3.45 LSD. I want to put a 6 speed transmission out of a turbo onto it, but to do this will I need to upgrade my tailshaft to a 2 piece shaft? Will my ute have the provisions for the center bearing to bolt up to the floorpan? and will my diff be able to accomodate the 2 piece driveshaft or will I need to change the coupling? I have been told I can keep the 1 piece shaft and it should fit straight into the 6 speed box. Is there anything else you guys would recommend to do while I'm at it? Any help is greatly appreciated!

What is a surge tank exactly??

I'm not sure but the plugs may be different between N/A and turbo and BA/BF. I'm doing the conversion as well but running the turbo loom and PCM

G'day mate. You can run into problems when changing the CAT on the BF's as they have a downstream O2 Sensor bit I've heard a few people just get a flash tune and they can get rid of the fault. I have a BFMKII N/A and I just took it to exhaust brothers and for $150 they cut out both the mufflers from the cat back and I got them to put a hotdog in there to act as a resonator and create less drone, so I'm left with a straight through system, and its loud!

ah ok then, I thought side pipes were only illegal if they came out under or in front of a door or a window. Oh well back to the drawing board I guess!

Hey guys, I'm building up a turbo engine with an atomic engine rebuild kit. I'm running the standard Garrett GT35/40 and all F6 Gear to begin with and then maybe upgrade some components. I would like to install a split system with side pipes out each side (its on a ute), just wondering if anyone knows the best size exhaust for this application. I'll be running the system cat back straight through with a hotdog (maybe a hotdog on each side of the exhaust after the split). Any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers.

Its not the best idea to do it with the sump on for that exact reason, but getting a new sump? this means taking the sump off anyways, why wouldn't you take it off, tap it, clean it thoroughly to prevent any swarf getting into the engine and then you've done it a lot cheaper than a new sump, that way you have done a good job and have a happy customer who doesnt have to spend 900 smackers on parts.

G'day mate. You dont neesd to de-comp your engine, but just make sure you have a very good tune done on it because if your car runs into detonation you will break things. Definately tell your mechanic to man up and tap the sump. You dont need to take the sump out to do this. If he's going to replace the sump he needs to take it out anyway, and if he's going to do that he might as well tap it. Remember that tune is everything, and you dont need an oil cooler but it definately wouldnt hurt. Hope this helps you, good luck!

Hey guys, I was wondering if anybody knows where me and a group of friends can do a skidpan day in the victoria region. We had one organised through a group called driver dynamics and they charged $150 each (8 people) for a 4 hour session at sandown but at the last minute they upped their price to $300! We weren't willing to pay that much so now its cancelled but we cant find anywhere else to do a similar thing for a reasonable price. We want to do a skidpan day and not a track day as its too much stress on your car and ends up costing you more than it first seems, unless your set up for some track driving. Anybody got any suggestions a organisation/venue that hosts skid pan days?

ahh yeah I get it, that's correct. Would the BA motor with the BF PCM work the VCT the same as the BF, even though its a BA motor it would have the BF PCM and programming? Obviously it would have to be a BF loom as well.

They are both Independant VCT but the BA cuts out the VCT below a certain RPM the BF has it going all the time. Still at a loss as to which one to use though haha