Azzman460

Hey guys, I am planning on taking out my engine and gearbox to replace them with a turbo engine and 6 speed manual gearbox. I was thinking I would like to take out the cluster and replace it with a FPV or even another XR cluster set on 0kms, so I have 2 seperate clusters with the correct amount of kms for each engine and gearbox. Does anybody know if its possible to set an old cluster to 0kms? I have a turbo PCM to replace the N/A PCM so the car will be getting re-flashed to work with the new turbo PCM so a new cluster could also be flashed with the car then. Any ideas?

Andrew whats happening mate? Been trying to contact you for the past month or so in relation to the turbo you were supposed to send down to me? Is the turbo and all the other parts still good or will I just be getting my cash back? I'm not fussed if I just get my money back as I dont want any destroyed parts, if you could get back to me anytime soon that would be great.

Just to clear up, You have a BA Mk1, sedan or ute? and at the moment is it manual or auto? on gas? and you want to put a T56 6 speed manual in it?

I got everything cut out from the cat back and I just have it straight through and a hotdog near the end of the system. The hotdog cuts out most of the drone, its very loud under accelleration and barks like a dog high in the revs, but cruising you would never ever know.

yeah its been done, except I think into an EB. There is a thread and pics at www.fordforums.com.au. Nice car!

haha yeah that was my next thought but there is a seal right at the end of the housing which I dont really want to wreck if a can help it. The actual yolk itself doesnt matter as the very end piece on the tailshaft side of it is all warped and bent so if it gets damaged in the removal its no biggy. I'm only worried about the output shaft. Its not bent or anything as the gearbox spins fine in every gear. I'm really at a loss on this one, hitting it doesnt work so I'm out of ideas haha. If worst comes to worst I think I'll just heat it up with the oxy and hopefully that'll soften it up enough to hit it off, but then I'm worried about the output shaft getting hot a warping or bending or something.

Hey guys, I recently bought a damaged T56 6 speed manual that had been in a crash, the crash was head on, hit a pole with the front of the car, which pushed the gearbox back off its mount into the tailshaft, which has consequently jammed the tailshaft yolk onto the output shaft. I need to get the extension housing off as it has a hole in it from the crash and I have to give it to a mate of mine by friday to get him to patch it up for me. Now the yolk has 3 parts coming off it for the bolts from the tailshaft which just stick out far enough from the housing to hit with a hammer. I had a bit of wood up againt the yolk and wacked the sh*t out of it with a hammer, then a steel mallet, then a sledge hammer, then the flat side of a wood splitter, and it didnt move an inch. Does anyone have any idea how I can get this off by friday?

I'm building mine at the moment with the atomic rebuild kit purely for the fact that it will be mostly indestructable once its together.

Buy a secondhand N/A Motor - $400 to $1000 Buy Forged Atomic rebuild Kit - $3700 put together.

if its a wheel speed sensor I'd bet the ABS light would be on. When you turn the ignition on the ABS light should come on for a couple of seconds while the computer does a self check, then it should go out shortly after. IF the ABS light is not on you might have a damaged or interuppted signal between the ABS tonewheel and the sensor itself, maybe check the tonewheels on the rear of the car for chips or cracks or any crud that could be messing with the signal.

170 degree thermostat?

theres heaps of threads on here talking about the advantages and disadvantages of going supercharged or turbocharged. Try looking for some of them and you'll get some pretty handy information.

yeah with my setup I could push it as far as my fuel system, intercooler and turbo can go, the engine will handle all I wish to put through it before worrying about over revving the crank. I'm not looking for a dyno queen or drag monster, I think much like yourself, I just want a good streetable car that will smoke all the holdens I come across, leaving them at the lights. I could push over 400rwkw with the components I will eventually have on the car. AH its all fun and games, I love it!

I can do the forged bottom end and the gearbox conversion for around 6k. Turbo and associated gear was 2k. shouold get out of it around 10k with a 6 speed conversion and a forged engine. Either way its not the money I'm doing it for its so I can say "yep, I built that!" HOORAH!

I dont think this would be lugging as lugging occurs at a very low car speed in high gear. This situation is at 100km/h in 5th gear, so flooring in then will not cause lugging, if you were going 40 km/h and floored it in 5th, then expect some lugging.

well I'm building a T motor for my NA ute and I'll come out of it cheaper than I would if I bought a T. I'm even doing forged internals and a 5 to 6 speed manual transmission conversion. but I'm doing all the work myself. Just depend what you want it for. I'm doing it for the fun, the experience and because it will be cheaper than buying a T. And it will be hella quicker than any T you could find for the same price.

its somewhat easy yes, although many have come unstuck trying. So when you get the upgraded diff gears do you just buy the crownwheel and pinion and change that or do you buy the whole diff assembly?

I doubt it is this but could it be axle tramp?

ah yes fair enough then, enjoying the turbo more than the NA?

Have you done any other major mods to your NA6 Doogstar? like cams or head work or anything?

Exactly right, the standard turbo will do you fine for any good amount of streetable power. I wouldnt bother going a bigger turbo unless you bigger and stronger everything else including internals an cylinder head work. not to mention suspension and the like.

So getting a higher diff ratio, say the 4.11's will give you much better accelleration but a lower top speed?

I'm doing much the saem as you. I have a standard BA 6cly non turbo motor, I'm tearing it down and rebuilding it with atomic forged engine rebuild kit, valve springs, standard garrett GT3540 Turbo, F6 Intercooler, all standard piping, and a heap of other stuff but its not that hard just make sure you do the proper research. You cam PM me for more details if you like! Good luck!

Fuel should be the last thing on your mind if you own one of these cars! Anywho, Cant you just set 3 different tunes into your flash box and change between them? for example a 12, 15 and 18psi tune as well as the standard one? that way you can have your detuned setting and your race spec setting hehe. I have been told that the standard boost controller is better bar none, it is not worth getting an aftermarket boost controller as the stock one will do a far better job.

haha yeah you guys got it in one! nothing better in my opinion haha! So anyone making the trip up this year?