Azzman460

yeah well that's about it, but I thought it would be hot or warm if it was a heater/water line. That little hose that drips out all the water that builds of the A/C Evaporator, could it be that? if the dash has been out before and it hasn't been put back in correctly could that little hose be leaking water out into the footwell rather than on the ground? That was my only thought as to what it could be as he said it doesnt happen all the time, only sometimes.

My mate has a BA ute and it recently started leaking water out from under the dash into the passenger footwell. He said its not hot or warm water, its cold, so I figure that cancels out the heater lines. Any other ideas as to what this could be? I'm not sure if the dash or HVAC unto has been taken out before so I'm not sure what it could be.

you could go all out, exhaust, intake system, cams, injectors, tune and make australias most powerful N/A XR6!

I'm halfway through this project now, PM me for details or I'll write a thread if everyone is interested!

hmm maybe sh*t tyres on the rear of the 350, and an 07 BFII. but theres no way the turbo would be that bad against the 350.

I can guarantee that from BF's onwards they use the smart charge system. like I said I'm not sure if its the same or even similar to the focus ones, but they do run a smart chatge system. The Altenators aren't different, neither is the battery or any other associated components, its just that the voltage charge is controlled by the PCM rather than a voltage regulator (I think) so just because the focus altenators keep sh*tting themselves, doesn't mean the smart charge system is crap, and just because its hard to diagnose, doesn't mean its crap either Anywho like I said I'm not sure how it works, but it may cause different readings.

I think that's crap. I've run a 350Z in my stock N/A BF XR6 plenty, I repeat plenty of times and been 1 or 2 car lengths behind at 120kmh! I doubt the turbo would be that bad from a standing start.

yeah I beleive that is the one! I'm not entirely sure though but I think that's it. If not that one then its a similar system, maybe not adjusted against electrolyte temp though. This system is used from BF onwards.

From BF's onward these cars used a system called "smart charge" which is different to conventional systems, I'm not sure how it works or what it does but it may cause different readings to conventional charging systems.

The amount of engineering and money that would have to go into this would be out-bloody-rageous. The benefits the company got from doing this would be nil. They would sell very very very little and I dare say it would be the end of ford motor company in australia. although, very very cool

yeah its just going to be a street car, but power levels may one day reach around the 400rwkw mark so I want to make sure that the valves can handle those tempereatures and won't start burning out or receding into the head. If I were to change the valves would you recommend getting the seats hardened as well? Or those valves and seats should be right for what I'm after?

Hey guys, as some of you may or may not know I'm building up a turbo motor. I bought an N/A Block from a wreckers, and am building it up with forged bottom end and other go fast bits. I was planning on using the standard N/A Head that is on the motor, but I am concerned about the valves. I think the trubo head is only different in the way that the exhaust valves are bigger, but are they possibly made from a different metal to manage with the extra heat a turbo engine produces? If need be I will replace all the valves in the head with turbo valves, or at least all the exhaust valves. Just wondering what you guys thinK! Cheers, Aaron

Dude your having the worst luck with this car, I reckon your almost on the road to a new one. Good luck finding the problem!

what kind of gains are we looking at here? I can see how it is an advantage but I cant see it making a difference on these cars. However I'd like to see if it makes a difference on engine power or makes it run smoother or has any effect at all.

yeah that's right, none of the auto's will rev past 3000rpm in neutral. manuals will as mentioned before.

I get the bad reception and I don't even have tint

I get teriible reception in my ute, its especially bad when you plug in a phone charger to the cigarette lighter. When the charger is sitting there by itself its ok, but as soon as you plug your phone in you get mega interference from it and its horrible! I just try to live with it, I cant be bothered trying to get my dealer to fix it.

These are the things I can think of off the top of my head that are different -turbocharger -manifold -injectors -intercooler -intake piping -Water lines -radiator -pistons (compression ratio) -rods -sump -computer -wiring loom -fuel pump?? Its not really difficult or expensive if you want to convert a standard XR6 to a turbo, providing you leave the standard Pistons and rods in there, which has been done and worked well with the right tune. If you want to upgrade the pistons and rods then it gets a little bit harder and more expensive, depending if you do the work yourself or get somebody else to do it. Any other questions PM me as I'm doing this conversion at the moment to!

that sounds pretty cool, does this interfere with any intercooler piping??

where do people mount the battery's in a ute? Just mount it in the tray somewhere?

that pretty much covers it. Just make sure you do the mods before you get it tuned or you'll just be going back there over and over to get it re-tuned. So unless you do some mods and don't plan on doing more for a while, hold off on the tune. I'd say you would be safe running the stock tune with the extractors, induction system and underdrives, but if you do the cams I'd say get it tuned asap

the cheapest form of motorsport at the moment would have to be go-karting or HQ Expensive Daewoo racing. My old man raced HQ's on the thunderdone for years until they closed the joint down, man the was good racing though. Imagine 40 HQ Holdens, 202 straight 6, 3 speed manual gearboxes heading flat knacker around the thunderdome. this = FUN He still races every year at the winton HQ 4 hour enduro race, its relatively cheap to get into, and loads of fun

yeah true but you would get over it mighty quick I reckon!

and just checking you realise that you'll have to change the pistons to get the engine to run as an N/A as the turbo compression is something like 8.6:1 where the N/A Compression runs on around 10.5:1 I think.

You should be ok if you run low boost with the N/A Pistons. You don't need the turbo ECU to do it, just make sure you go to a tuner that can appropriatly flash your ECU to run the turbo. ] I would reccomend getting a turbo ECU though and using the stock ford boost control through the ECU as I've heard this is better than any other boost control method you can use, however I have no truth to back this up, just heresay! I'm doing a similar thing except changing the engine internals, and I'm using a turbo ECU.