Azzman460

oh come on you can't just leave it there, that's terrible.

I reckon you stick to your ebay, wreckers and the forum sales area. If your looking for a motor for a build then you don't want anything to fancy there's plenty of BA Turbo motors always up for grabs on ebay

haha yeah but the tail lights are the least of my concerns at the moment. I'll have to get rid of that hideous reversing light in the tailgate though!

When you put a BA Ute in reverse are there reverse lights in the taillights or do they use that single light in the tailgate? Is it possible to get them to use the taillights so you dont have to have that light in the tailgate?

Hey guys, thanks for the input, makes the forums a great place when you get feedback like that. The only reason I'm swinging towards the BA T is because it already has the T56 Conversion and Spec clutch I'm building a Turbo motor in my spare time which will eventually go into the car (was going to go into my BF in place of the N/A) and I also purchased a T56 to go with the motor in my BF, but this one already has it which is a big bonus for me. Buying a BF or BFMKII Turbo seems a little pointless spending the extra money considering I am going to pull the engine out eventually anyways. I think the BA T might be the go, but is there any problems or downfalls that will disappoint me by buying the BA T coming from the BF? This particular BA has a PBR brake upgrade so that should elminate the brake shudder problems I would assume, but is there anything else I should be wary of?

cool that makes me feel warm and fuzzy inside.

Dags do you live in the marsh? I live in the Marsh! dont think I've seen you around though. I drive a N/A BF ute with a rum sticker on the back windscreen and it has no mufflers so it makes a hell of a racket around town!

Isnt the tailshaft off a T5 Box a 1 piece? and do you need a 2 piece for a T56? or is the tailshaft yoke enough to do the conversion?

D'OH! could mods please move this to the driveline forum I accidentally posted in the wrong section haha

http://www.capa.com.au/xr6_driveline.htm Im looking at a BA turbo that has a 6 speed conversion and this stage 3 clutch installed It is running 280 RWKW Does anybody use these clutches from CAPA and can provide any feedback on them?

Hey guys, I currently have a BF MKII N/A I've had from new but am thinking about selling it and buying a BA turbo which is in the sale forums at the moment The BA has had a 6 speed conversion and 4.1 Diff from Mal Wood, and a spec clutch from CAPA. its also got a NIZPRO stage 1 kit What do you reckon about getting rid of the BF for the BA? would I be disappointed with any problems the BA may have? Or is it a worthwhile swap to make? Any help appreciated! Cheers

I bought my 07 BF MKII Ute brand new, it alsmost clocked over 40,000kms now and I just replaced the rear tyres, After replacing the rears a had a look at the fronts and the inside of both front tyres are scrubbed out down to the wire, there was no mention of this happening at any of the service intervals and I didn't even look at the fronts until I changed the rears I've never hit anything at all in the ute and I dont understand how they could be scrubbed out so bad My question is do you think ford would/should provide new tyres and a wheel alignment under warranty? I'm assuming the wheel alignment was out from factory as like I said I've never ever hit anything, and I also don't understand why they didn't pick this up at the services. What are your opinions?

yeah its just for the wagons is all. His description isn't very good though, BA or BF MKIII. Ah well

what kind of quotes have you been given to do the job? it would be much much easier with a hoist but can get by with stands. I dont know why you would only have half a dump pipe either, sounds like its been cut halfway or something silly like that! Do you have the appropriate wiring for the wastegate solenoid and such?

I dont quiet get what part your talking about, the Exhaust system goes turbo, dump, then the cat pipe is all one pipe from the dump to after the cat? unless the system you have is flanged in front of the cat as well?? I can drill and tap the sump but the same as P4N1C I prefer to drop the sump to get easier access. I don't think the bolts are the same I think there might be a few different ones for heatshield and such but the may only be on the N/A

I might be able to help you out for a reasonable price. Have you got a list of parts that you have?

hmm I see, but as you said it reads up to 14.7psi absolute pressure, so if you have boost on top of that how does it read it? its only a 1 bar sensor. so telling the PCM the mass amount of air wouldn't work with a 1 bar sensor, as it couldn't read the manifold pressure after about 20psi absolute pressure (about 5psi boost) Even if they were tuning the AFR's off the oxygen sensor value, the PCM still needs to know the amount of mass air entering the engine. Just a theory, like I said I'd like to know the proper explanation!

I see, well yes I'd like to know how your running the 1 bar MAP sensor with that boost, or if you are running the 2 bar, how RDP come up with the idea that it was a waste of time!

how much boost are you running in your conversion? maybe your ecu can only pick it up cos your running low boost? like I said if you wanna go over 5 psi boost I'm pretty sure you have to put a 2 bar sensor in. I'd like to be proven wrong though!

the standard MAP sensor measures vacuum, and up to 5 psi positive intake pressure (this is around 20 psi ABSOLUTE pressure, not guage pressure) after this I think it doesn't read over that. if your going to run over 5 psi boost, you need a 2 bar MAP sensor which reads vacuum for when theres no boost, and up to 20+ PSI of boost, which is about 35psi absolute pressure.

you can buy one from a ford dealer, or wreckers would be your best bet.

you wouldn't want to drive it to much without getting it tuned, tuning is everyting especially with these conversions, things can go wrong very quickly. Also you'll need a 2bar MAP sensor if you want to run over 5 psi boost.

yes the reverse lockout solenoid is a good theory, as when that switch triggers the soledoid also triggers to engage reverse gear. lets run with that haha.

is it the same switch used for cruise control? If so maybe this has something to do with the clicking noise? anyways I think the launch control is a good idea but really if your using the car at a track it might help you the first couple times but I think you'll eventually want to turn it off and try out your skills rather than just letting the car do all the hard work. I'm not sure about the FG's but I know the SX SY Territory's with DSC, if you PUSH the button in and the DSC light comes on, it just turns off the traction control, but if you HOLD the button in for longer, the light will flicker, this means the wole DSC System is off, maybe this is the same with the FG Traction/DSC/Launch control system? If you hold down the button for a while it may turn everything off? My 2 cents!

manual or auto? if its an auto it could be the kickdown button right before the floor. You'll feel the pedal go down til it touches the button, then if you push that little bit harder, it clicks the button in.