PhilMeUp

ie drag queens?

In front of the front wheel - remove some plastic scrivets (ie plastic screws) and a metal Philips head screw. Pull the wheel arch plastic back and you can see the water tank and pump(s). Photo guide: Photo Essay: Replacing The Windscreen Washer Pump

Basically, my instinct. It's not worth doing though - the time that I've put into this sort of stuff, plus the loss of income, means that I actually lose out when I hunt down phone owners. I ask people to take it up with Swan Taxis and make a fuss out of it so that I can get some brownie points, but that doesn't happen either. Swan are happy to prosecute me in their internal tribunal for stupid crap such as refusing to drive an abusive old guy down his driveway (I don't go down driveways at night) but they won't do anything positive if I do something like get creative and locate a phone owner.

Took me 7 weeks to track down one phone owner a couple of years ago. Stupid Blackberry was locked up, so I couldn't go through recent calls and SMSes. I finally figured out to remove the SIM card, call the telco (Telstra) and give them the 9 digit serial number on the SIM card. That matches up to the account. By then, the guy had another phone so the call centre was able to call him. Did the same with another phone last year. Got the call centre to look through recent calls on the account, and he managed to get hold of the girl's mum.

Nah, haven't found drugs in my car yet. Plenty of $1 and $2 coins. Found a $50 note under the back seat one time. Was pretty pleased that night.

It was a smashing good time. All the greatest hits.

Standard: Being a passenger is probably not going to end in tears. Ex HWP: Being a passenger is probably going to end in tears. I wonder if the police ever remove the back seat and check for drugs when decommissioning their cars? If someone's in the back seat and they've got stuff they don't want to be be found in a few minutes time, then trying to jam it down the back of the seat would be the logical move.

I want less. I'll publish the other photos when I get the go-ahead from the police (ie don't want to jeopardise the case). Not well. Blood splatter:

Something about crap internals and two pinion vs four pinion. Call some diff places and get some advice. I know the basic theory but not the exact details. Ask about AU vs BA/BF diffs. What I'm writing is here is what I've gotten from talking to diff places and taxi mechanics. The AU diffs were robust and generally lasted for years (usually forever). For the BA & BF, Ford used cheaper internal parts and went from a four pinion centre to a two pinion one. The FG ute has gone back to a four pinion centre. Ah, but the XR6T and XR8s used a different diff to the base model XT. Different internals, I think it's Borg Warner stuff. Wreckers advertise Turbo and XR8 diffs for $1,000-1,300 (ie decent quality, expensive internals). An XT diff can be rebuilt with good parts and a four pinion centre for around $1,200. I had this done on my last taxi. Had the diff rebuilt on Monday and the car got written off on the following Sunday. Dammit. Tocchi's wreck is an ex-taxi. It had 380,000km on it in September last year. It might be the original diff, which might still be working perfectly or it might be noisy. The diff in Deb's taxi has just clicked over 500,000km and is still working. Taxi mechanics are stunned that hers is still going. I replaced mine last year when it was getting too noisy and pissing me off all the time - that was around 350-400,000km. I bought a BFIII wagon wreck last year with 203,000km on it. I put the diff in my day driver's personal car (BF wagon) and it's noisy as hell. I didn't expect that from a 203,000km diff. Bugger. Maintenance is also a determining factor. I had completely overlooked replacing the diff oil regularly until last year, so now I'm into using heavy duty 80-140 synthetic stuff. Much more expensive than the usual 80-90 mineral oil, but I want to make my diffs last longer. I'm using Penrite Pro Gear 80-140, but there are similar oils from Nulon and Castrol. The diff from Tocchi's wreck might be fine. It might be noisy. That's my point - its a guessing game, and no-one will know the condition of the diff until it's put into a car and put to use. Nothing against Tocchi - I was gonna buy the complete wreck off him but backed off once I found out about the high km and ex-taxi status. I'm miffed - I was really looking forward to meeting the guy in person, talking about cars, etc.

Don't bother - BA & BF diffs are crap. BA & BF diffs = 2 pinion, AU diffs = 4 pinion. Get an AU one. You have to cut off and relocate one of the handbrake brackets. I run an AU diff on my taxi. Cost me $160 to buy and $25 at an exhaust place for the handbrake bracket. Bonus is that it's LSD. I've got a spare BF housing and an AU diff at home that I'm keeping for future taxi use. You're welcome to have a look and see what I mean about the handbrake bracket. Tocchi's car has got 380,000km on it, so the diff will be an unknown until you fit it and drive.

This. Probably also cleaned up the contact points between the cop chip and ECU to ensure quicker transfer of data. Dirty contacts on cop chips are always overlooked. Last time I put a cop chip in a car I spent a bunch of time with some cotton sticks and electronics cleaner. Made a huge difference. (Sooooooo pissed off right now that I didn't think to do one of my Photo Essay guides about this a week and a half ago... ah well, next year....)

I'm a tad tempted to have a go at waking up early enough on Sunday to make the drive to Racewars but the reality of that happening is bugger all (ie I go to bed about 6-7am on Sunday mornings). But if a few people want to meet up for a local cruise on Sunday arvo (ie a much more realistic option) then I'm all for it. 3-4pm-ish would be good. I'd love to go on some regular Sunday afternoon drives.

Pencil me in. Gotta figure out some details (ie strip it at your place or move it somewhere else). How many km on it? Diff any good?

I found this thread: http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/forum-replies.cfm?t=2189827 Which mentions that One Tonnner utes must have a wheel load rating of 1,000kg and a tyre load rating of 99. Tyres are easy enough to get - I've seen plenty before with a 99 or 100 load rating. Wheels with a 1,000kg load rating also exist. I still don't get it... why stick to 16"?

How much for the gearbox and diff (ie separate prices)?

That's the part that I don't get - there are tyres larger than 16" diameter that have high load ratings. On Falcon sedans, the required minimum load rating is 93. For wagons and utes the minimum is 95. That's why I need to make sure that tyres that go on my taxi (BFIII wagon) have a load rating of at least 95. I don't know if this ute requires a higher load rating than 95, but there are plenty of 17" and 18" tyres with load ratings of 97 and 98.

Grab the calipers if you can, you might change your mind later on. Is there any reason why you won't go to even a 17" rim?

If you're going to stick with a two piston front caliper then at least track down a set of the PBR C5/C6 calipers. They use a 325 x 32mm disc rotor instead of the 298 or 322 x 28mm that the standard Falcons use. The extra 4mm thickness helps with handling the heat and not warping. That caliper was also used on the '97-'02 Corvette, which means a good range of performance brake pads (ie get them from the US). They are had to find secondhand, but if you're not going to go Brembo then at least find a set of them. They came in three different colours: - Red with a PBR logo - Black with a Ford logo - Blue with an FPV logo They were an option on the BA Falcon and standard on a lot of the BA FPVs. They do need a 17" rim though.

If you're going to have a build thread then that means that you want to show other people what you're doing. So, post the same stuff on different forums. Different forums have different people, with different opinions and different skill sets. Put the photos on somewhere like Photobucket. Write the posts in a text file. Then post the resulting text in each build thread. Build threads are a good thing. They're educational. Be a slut about it. Show everyone. More people will learn from it. It's not a football team vs football team thing (or a brake pad brand vs brake pad brand ). There's no need to pick one side. Post everywhere.

Possibilities: Starter motor or neutral switch. Each one might respond with the appropriate tapping with a hammer (ie gentle on the neutral switch).

Luke's also got black wheels, so the dust gets fairly well hidden. Paddy's also got black wheels, so brake dust won't be such an issue. I've got chrome wheels on both cars (taxi and Tornado) so I notice brake dust straight away. Maybe Luke and I should swap pads for a month or two and see what difference we can each notice.

The cheapest way to go is to get them powder coated. I had some done at Aeroplate in Welshpool - next to Perth Brake Parts. I pulled mine to pieces and paid $50 per caliper for powder coating. The bolts must have been acid dipped, because they came back looking like brand new. The price that I got for painting was $175 per caliper. If repainting/powder coating then the first step is to measure and order replacement Brembo decais. These are common on eBay and various web sites. Disassemble everything. Pretty sure that it's an 8mm allen key for the bolts. Take sh*tloads of photos so that you can remember what goes where. Seals: Should be ok. Be extra careful with removing the seals and dust boots. They are expensive to replace. Don't even bother with local pricing, it's straight to the US for that one. Removing seals: You need to push the pistons out - can get tricky without an air compressor. Maybe try and find a servo with one of the older style tyre inflators? Drop all four disks off at Marfleet in East Perth for Nick to check and machine if necessary. Brake pads: People will debate this forever. I'm a fan of the Hawk Performance ceramic pads. The part number for the 4 piston fronts is HB193Z.670
http://www.hawkperformance.com/performance-street/pads/hb193z670 Rear pads: Dunno. Anyone got any suggestions? Braided brake lines: Talk to Matt at Race Brakes Sydney. He's also a fan of the Hawk ceramic pads, so he'll be able to explain why they're so good. Speed Bleeders: They make it easy to flush and bleed brakes on your own at home. The Brembo calipers use a SB1010S (also known as a SB1010S). The rear PBR calipers use a SB1010 (also known as a 639560). Order them on Amazon.com

This. It's piss easy - the only thing that is required in the engine bay is brake fluid. It's all bolt-on. Brake lines, calipers and disc rotors.

Solution: Run adverts for the strip club & brothel down the road. For women, adverts for shoe sales elsewhere. Make 'em want to get the hell out of there ASAP.

Better start saving now to pay for the air ticket to here that she'll be asking for any day now. Which get delayed, due to her mother being sick.