Taxi 8 u

I was leaning toward the rapids and I must thank you for your honesty in your recommendations, I guess tomorrow I'll be ordering my Rapid valvesprings. Cheers.

Hey guys, just after opinions on vavle springs, preference, experience, issues (both good & bad). 1 Crow valvesprings 2 Rapid Systems 3 Atomic. Will be run in a BA XR6T, probably no more then 16PSI. Thinking of changing cams at a later date also. Thoughts?

Does anyone know of a reputable exhaust workshop in Newcastle area that can do either of the following- A, convert my existing dump to V band, or B, fabricate a V band dump that would mate up to stock system? Cheers.

Hey guuys, not sure if this is a topic that has been brought up before. Has anyone gone to an aftermarket ECU in a BA XR6T, most threads seem to follow Flash tuners, if it is at all possible what have been the ECUs been used? Cheers.

Holdens new advertising campaign maybe?

Before you marry her! Five years after you marry her!

well its definate voltage issue. what you need to do is put another battery in, strart her upand lift off the positive lead, the car should keep running if the altenator is still good. If the engine stops then its a dead altenator or hopefully a loose battery lead connection on the back of the altenator, if you have a digital multi meter put that on the batt leads and monitor the voltage. If the engine keep running the voltage should be sitting atleast 13volts anything less wont charge the battery so well. its a long shot but its not the drive belt (drives altenator, power steer etc...) is it? check those few things and get back to us.

Did your car have auto haedlamps to start with? If it didnt then putting in and indicator stalk with auto switching doesnt mean you now have it. You need the L.D.R. that sits in the centre of the dash at the base of the windscreen plus the rest of the circuit.

A guy in the Newcastle area has a Ford Explorer (later model) started running around town with Chevy Tahoe badges, now apart from making it into a 4 Dr ute he has put HSV Senator badges on it. Total tool!

You have approx 51mm from the window runner to the door skin plus add an extra say 9mm for an MDF spacer, so you are pushing 60mm of usable mounting depth. So pretty much any speaker you want, even a decent 6.5" woofer would fit.

Nice job Ryan, I recently trimmed all the beige components in my T in black suede. I trimmed all the pillar covers instead of painting. Since my car is black with 5% tint it looks sweet as. The only beige parts left are the visors and grab handles, am sizing up those parts in a VX Late model camira at the moment as they came out in black and will hopefully fit. Will have to try and put up some decents pics of it soon. But again, looking good.

Well if you want top quality we assume price isnt an issue? Do you have Premo sound? I've installed into BA/BFs a lot of Alpine 7x5s. I wouldn't bother looking at your Clarions,Kenwoods etc. You could also look at Eclipse (a bit flat sounding) or some of the 'American' companies JL, Kicker so on. You really need to go out with your own music and audition speakers in your price range, remembering that what they sound like in the demo board isn't what they will sound like in your car.

Im running the Drift Digi gauges, works perfectly, full LCD display. Nice shallow mount, so the sat in my gauge pod nicely. In saying that I've also installed Autometer gauges and not had any major issues (mainly calibration). I think it will come down to personal preference really.

Search ebay, under car neons!

Premium Sound (colour screen) or single CD player (mono chrome screen)? You could try dis connecting to positive terminal of the battery and hopefully the unit will reset and will work properly again.

Nothing up there? how so? All the wiring is attached to the roof liner itself and plugs in at the base of the drivers A pillar. Although the wiring is taped in place from factory the trimmers might have moved it when the re-lined it and when the screwed the grab handles in they might have pinched the wiring. Un-plug the harness in the drivers pillar and then lock the door to see what happens, if the problem goes away then you know its in the roof and probably a short.

Look in the Important Topics section of the A/V Workshop. Third from the top, adding RCAs to ICC.

Has the problem only just occured? Have you had any work done to the interior of the car, had a roof mount DVD installed etc....

High/low beam 55/60 watt H4 High beam 55 watt H7 Parker T10 wedge 10 watt Fog lights 55 watt H3 Hope that helps you out.

A woman racing cars? What's next, letting the vote too? My question is, why has she been let of of the kitchen? Get back in there and bake me cake!

Well I'll be doing all the piping myself, ditching all the factory plumbing, so things should be 100%, SHOULD! LOL!

Ok, so I checked the cross over pipe this morning, no paint flaking off but what I did find was the little dags of cast alloy that are left on the inside of the pipe when it is cast are rather brittle and break away by simply rubbing my finger over them, some pieces were as big as 1.5mm square. So maybe all you other guys with the stock cross over pipe might want to get that checked out!

Damn Frauds! Well I was putting the car in to get the valve springs upgraded so I might as well get him to do the compressor wheel also. Cheers for all the help guys. Kind of makes me happy knowing that I'm replacing all the dodgy Ford pipework, including the damn cross over piece of sh*te!