nelsonian101

I used to swap between 98 and E70 tunes all the time. From 98 to E85 easy. Car loves E70-E85 and a bit of 98 left in the tank initially is tolerated in the tune. Just stop at Servo. Flash the E85 tune in while filling up to save time. From E85 back to 98, not so easy. Try and run the tank as low as possible, before filling back up with 98. Mine would takes quite a few goes at starting and needed a feathered throttle to keep idle revs up to prevent stalling. After the first 5-10km drive would be ok.

Can anyone recommend a circuit/track only pad that fit the rear PBR Territory/FPV single pot calipers (328mm rotor)? I'll be searching the World Time attack sponsors at SMP this weekend for suggestions too. So far I've only been using Race pads (PMu H16-03) in the front and just the Ferodo DS on the back. Any ideas for the highest performance pad available for the rears?

For the last 4 years I have given my simple stepped PWR cooler a flogging at the circuit on my FG. Surprise surprise it has worked well enough for me with careful cool down procedures. However, it has been damaged recently and I need to upgrade. http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/89273-pwr-stepped-intercooler-damage/ Bar and plate vs tube and fin? I only have good things to say about Process West. Innovative designs and a quality product. If I was not concerned about weight and doing the occasional drags, this would be my choice in a heart beat. However, it is heavier than a similar Plazmaman Tube and Fin Stage 3 Cooler. Weight is very important to me. My car is already fat enough. Flow to the radiator is crucial as my car has always had temp issues at the circuit too. From my understanding, air will flow through a Tube and fin cooler more effectively than a bar and plate. Engineering theory would suggest that a heavier (bar/plate) cooler will absorb heat for longer duration potentially making it less efficient on a 10 lap supersprint session with constant airflow.........unless I am tailgaiting/being held up by an Evo..... The Plazmaman stage 2 or 3 (light weight, high flow through) seems the logical choice for my unique circuit requirements. Any thoughts?

Cheap bearings are just that. Cheap. I fell into the same trap and they didn't last long at all. Stronger ones for BA currently are made by Bosnjak Engineering in Sydney. The Ford ones are better than most aftermarket.

I'm all for cheap nasty repairs to get me by, as this intercooler will only be doing one more circuit day. I don't have a weld kit and am considering something like this now. If it works, it works. (Rating may only be 10,000psi, but this will be sufficient...) Will take some Araldite out to the track too. http://jbweldit.com.au/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1

I am only using 19,000psi so I should be right. Thanks for the tip.

It's very difficult to data log accurately if the testing is done of different days, as would be the case for me. The plan is to use the existing busted PWR cooler at Wakefield on October 11th and then later in the month replace it with a Process West stage 2 or Plazmaman 1000hp. One more question. As a quick dodgey fix if required, I was recommended some 5min Araldite glue to seal any of these potential intercooler cracks in the pits on the day if it gets worse. Any other ideas?

I wish it was that simple. The biggest coolers are great for drag passes, max power for short duration/low heat soak/ lowering intake temps, but don't allow any airflow through the radiator. I know of at least one big HP supra circuit car that started with a massive front mounted intercooler that actually went quicker by cutting the top off the cooler to help with airflow through the radiator to get cooler temps and hence engine temps down.

The low weight of the Plazmaman tube and fin coolers now have me interested.

Out of interest, which is one of the lighter after market intercoolers on the market?

I already use Ethanol based fuel at 70%. Eflex. Also have a thicker Fenix radiator which is shrouded with foam. I've got temps under control for what I do. I'll be going with either stage 1 or 2 PW.

Would a Stage 2 PW (420 x 460 x 90mm) be a decent improvement over the stepped PWR? The PW Stage 2 is 80mm narrower and 15mm lower than PW Stage 3 (500 x 425 x 100mm), and would let more air to radiator which is a requirement for my car.

My circuit tune will be 360rwkw. What intercooler is recommended?

Thanks. Any suggestions on a replacement? Won't be needing anything over 400rwkw.

If it still holds boost (haven't checked yet), will it still be ok for a track day? If I upgrade, what is considered the best for hot circuit days that still allows some air through to the radiator? Considering the Stepped Process West.

I considered the GTX3576 but there is something about modifying/strengthening existing components that appeals to me more. I will be getting a 98 tune shortly but it will not be a high boost tune. Just a safe, daily tune.

I'll post up a pic as it came fresh from the rebuild in it's xmas wrapping paper! I'm not sure of the exact diameter but the housing was definitely machined for it to fit. Also pics of the leaking exhaust gasket. Split with Carbon deposits.

GTX Billet wheel

That's the one. No complaints.

Feels incredible mate.

So finally got around to getting my little Garrett GT3576 serviced again. This time the turbo had done another 100,000kms since it's last service by GCG. It's all about preventative maintenance for me as this car cops a flogging. Work done by John at Precision, and I recommend him. We went with a 11 blade Billet wheel upgrade, machined housing, porting and flapper mod. Car was tuned by Dale at Castle Hill Exhaust on Eflex E70. Did valve springs just prior. The car arrived with a leaking exhaust manifold as usual and this time was machined to fit and also fitted some gaskets to hold boost. Power was way down. I wanted 2 new tunes. 1 drag tune at 21psi on Eflex which went nearly 390rwkw, and a very safe, rich tune to handle many circuit laps at 16psi which went a bit over 360rwkw. With the same exact same set up (apart from Valve springs) the car previously made 346rwkw on Eflex at 18psi (a tune that I never used, and actually reduced to 17psi a bit later for about 320rwkw). On 98 it made a bit over 300rwkw at 18psi. Dyno was recalibrated in between so the numbers probably aren't that important. Though, after the recent turbo mod..... All I can say is.........WOW!!!! This feels a lot more than a 40rwkw gain. The car pulls like a turbo diesel truck off idle, with a PHAT, obscene midrange and finally the top end I have been lacking for years. I used the 390rwkw tune recently at the Nulon Nationals round 3 at Cootamundra airport too and the results on fb speak for themselves. "Usable" power on the airport strip, all the way from idle to redline. Progressive and one of the best bang for buck mods I have done. Can't wait to try the new 360rwkw tune at Wakefield in October. Been wanting that 7 for a while now!

The battery I'm using Odyssey PC680 is OK but not perfect. Discharged once fully when a tune downloading froze on me (and battery was never 100% after that) and I don't want it to happen again. Numerous people have told me the tune file download via OBDII takes a significant amount of battery charge. Seen tuners even cool the SCT device unit during connection to make sure it doesn't overheat and affect the download.

Thanks. Like this? Left hand battery is in car,

I have a fgxr6t that is used on the circuit with an old pc680 dry cell battery. The battery still works fine as is regularly maintained via a ctek trickle charger. As changing tune files at the track (via the sct xcal device into the obd II port) takes a lot of battery drain, here is my "long winded" question. Can I connect a 2nd battery to the incar dry cell battery terminals via a red/black jump starter lead to provide extra current while the tune file is downloaded? Thanks. Edit Reply

I have a fgxr6t that is used on the circuit with an old pc680 dry cell battery. The battery still works fine as is regularly maintained via a ctek trickle charger. As changing tune files at the track (via the sct xcal device into the obd II port) takes a lot of battery drain, here is my "long winded" question. Can I connect a 2nd battery to the incar dry cell battery terminals via a red/black jump starter lead to provide extra current while the tune file is downloaded? Thanks. Edit Reply